Track saws?

[Jameshow]

A bit pricey for me should just use my circular saw against a straight edge!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hmm, it doesn't plunge by the look of it, running the blade guard along the rail with presumably an adjustable depth setting for the blade - the plunge, to me, is one of the attractions of my track saw.

No, it doesn't. I can't see it makes a big difference, and it's about a third of the cost of the main brands. I might think differently if I were using it all day every day, I suppose.

 

[Pen Davas]

A bit pricey for me should just use my circular saw against a straight edge!

If you are cutting a lot of sheet material, without a table saw, then a good track saw, even second hand is well worth the investment.

 

[robgul]

A bit pricey for me should just use my circular saw against a straight edge!

That's what I graduated from to the tracksaw - it worked but not as easily as running the saw IN the rail rather than AGAINST it - especially on very long cuts

 

[swisstony]

I bought the Erbauer one from screwfix a few years ago
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-erb690csw-185mm-electric-plunge-saw-240v/3875pIt has been a dream to use and no complaints so far. Two things I did. Got a makita track as it works on them so now have the two pack that the saw comes with plus a longer single Makita track . I also unscrewed the god awful safety device that stops it being pulled back which is just plain annoying. I also closed up the hole for better dust collection

 

[Sauter Shop]

It's a pity that Excel don't do a longer rail - I'd love a 2700 or 3000 instead of joining my two 1400 rails but I can't justify the cost of the longer Festool rails.

We are selling a ot of these into the UK Guide rail YouTOOL - sautershop even with the freight costs its about 130GBP cheaper than the 2700mm Festool rail

 

[PerryGunn]

We are selling a ot of these into the UK Guide rail YouTOOL - sautershop even with the freight costs its about 130GBP cheaper than the 2700mm Festool rail

Thank you - that might be an option if I get to a point where I 'must' have one. I'm currently keeping an eye on eBay for second-hand rails in my region that I may be able to collect.

 

[BucksDad]

Thank you - that might be an option if I get to a point where I 'must' have one. I'm currently keeping an eye on eBay for second-hand rails in my region that I may be able to collect.

Just remember that YouTool one doesn't have the extrusion on top which will take parallel guides or other accessories. Seems to the only downside to it

 

[DBT85]

Just remember that YouTool one doesn't have the extrusion on top which will take parallel guides or other accessories. Seems to the only downside to it

That would be what would stop me getting one as I use the guides.

 

[jcassidy]

If you are going to be a serious user then save up and buy the best you can.

If your use is casual like mine, the Lidl one is fine.

 

[JobandKnock]

It's a pity that Excel don't do a longer rail - I'd love a 2700 or 3000 instead of joining my two 1400 rails but I can't justify the cost of the longer Festool rails.

Then look at the Makita 3m rail - it ain't cheap, but it's cheaper than the Festool and it does work with parallel guides

 

[Chunkytfg]

I have a Festool TS55 and recently went up to my parents to help my Dad put a roof on his newly built Orangery. I didnt the mine with me as he said he'd seen mine so bought himself one.

He got the Lumberjack Plunge saw. A few things I found using it

700mm Guide rails x4 all joined together to cut a full plywood sheet does not make for a very good straight cut!

NO soft start was not pleasant.

So loud it was horrible. My TS55 is loud without ear defenders but with them barely audible. The Lumberjack even with them was really loud!! Horrible!

Even with a brand new blade is really didnt cut very well at all! Chipout all along the cut on both sides.

Overall I would say, yes it worked but was it worth it no probably not. the £150 it cost him was the same as my 18v Makita Brushless one along with a clamped length of wood and the cut would probably be the same.

 

[harryc]

I have a Festool TS55 and recently went up to my parents to help my Dad put a roof on his newly built Orangery. I didnt the mine with me as he said he'd seen mine so bought himself one.

He got the Lumberjack Plunge saw. A few things I found using it

700mm Guide rails x4 all joined together to cut a full plywood sheet does not make for a very good straight cut!

NO soft start was not pleasant.

So loud it was horrible. My TS55 is loud without ear defenders but with them barely audible. The Lumberjack even with them was really loud!! Horrible!

Even with a brand new blade is really didnt cut very well at all! Chipout all along the cut on both sides.

Overall I would say, yes it worked but was it worth it no probably not. the £150 it cost him was the same as my 18v Makita Brushless one along with a clamped length of wood and the cut would probably be the same.

Similar to your Dad I bought the Lumberjack a few years ago and honestly it was rubbish, well the saw was not to bad but the rails were not straight so I decided to get the Festool and yup it’s light and day compared to the Lumberjsck

 

[Chunkytfg]

Similar to your Dad I bought the Lumberjack a few years ago and honestly it was rubbish, well the saw was not to bad but the rails were not straight so I decided to get the Festool and yup it’s light and day compared to the Lumberjsck

I think Track saws are one of those tools where you really do get what you pay for.

For most things a cheap drill issn too dissimilar to an expensive one.

 

[Jacob]

I haven't got one. If you are not using it against stops do you clamp the track or can you just drop it on to make a straight cut?

 

[Sporky McGuffin]

I always clamp mine - I found the non-slip pads weren't non-slip enough on their own.

 

[Chunkytfg]

I haven't got one. If you are not using it against stops do you clamp the track or can you just drop it on to make a straight cut?

I mostly Dont clamp as the way I use it means I dont actually cut right up to a line but for the occasions I have used it properly I do clamp it.

I will say though the Festool tracks I find really dont move around

 

[Distinterior]

I also tend to clamp mine as well from habit,....although, if you're just straight cutting a bit of MDF or plywood, the non slip strips on the underside of the rails is usually enough to keep the rail from moving during a cut.

Glossy or painted surfaces, I always clamp or, more often than not, I use the Gecko vacuum clamps which work really well....(You'll love these Jacob)....

I use 2 of these if the rail is long or if the cut is in the middle of the material,.....such as a sink or hob cutout.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-GECKO-DOSH-Set-Dual-Suction/dp/B001495S3U

 

[Jacob]

I also tend to clamp mine as well from habit,....although, if you're just straight cutting a bit of MDF or plywood, the non slip strips on the underside of the rails is usually enough to keep the rail from moving during a cut.

Glossy or painted surfaces, I always clamp or, more often than not, I use the Gecko vacuum clamps which work really well....(You'll love these Jacob)....

I use 2 of these if the rail is long or if the cut is in the middle of the material,.....such as a sink or hob cutout.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-GECKO-DOSH-Set-Dual-Suction/dp/B001495S3U

kinell! not cheap! Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a chap in to do the job instead?

 

[Distinterior]

kinell! not cheap! Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a chap in to do the job instead?

They did get a chap in to do a professional job.....ME !