Track saw, on Aluminium sheet?

[pe2dave]

I watched Peter Millard cutting a track with his tracksaw, suitability for 2-3mm al sheet please?
A friend repairs aircraft panels and has to schlep miles to use the services of a metal workers tools.
Any necessary precautions?

 

[Jameshow]

Using the right blades with anti kickback limiters as used by evolution tools.

Make sure the blade is spinning fast enough and the feed rate is low to present the teeth catching ..?

 

[MikeK]

I've never tried to cut aluminium sheet with my saws, but have cut aluminium extrusion with my mitre saw and table saw. I didn't do anything special aside from using a blade made for non-ferrous metal and material and taking my time with the cuts.

The 3mm sheet might not be a problem, but I would be worried that thinner material will be too flexible and will distort and tear before the teeth of the saw can make a clean cut. When I try to cut thin PVC channel for electrical installations using the mitre saw, sometimes the plastic will shear away no matter how careful and slow I am. If I rush the cut, the damage is severe, but if I slow the cut, any damage is usually minor. When I am cutting a lot of plastic ducting, I make a wooden form to fit in the duct channel for support and the cuts are clean.

If I did try to cut thin sheet aluminium using a track saw, I would sandwich it between two layers of thin sacrificial plywood, MDF, or OSB. At a minimum, I would cover it with one layer of sacrificial material to keep the aluminium contained, almost like a zero clearance insert for a track saw. The cost of the sacrificial material might be more economical than the time and fuel schlepping to another shop.

 

[pe2dave]

I've never tried to cut aluminium sheet with my saws, but have cut aluminium extrusion with my mitre saw and table saw.

If I did try to cut thin sheet aluminium using a track saw, I would sandwich it between two layers of thin sacrificial plywood, MDF, or OSB. At a minimum, I would cover it with one layer of sacrificial material to keep the aluminium contained, almost like a zero clearance insert for a track saw. The cost of the sacrificial material might be more economical than the time and fuel schlepping to another shop.

Good point Mike, for thinner material. Thanks.

 

[Gordon Tarling]

Don't let any swarf get in the cooling vents!

G.

 

[Spectric]

I would be more tempted to use a jigsaw with the right blades and then use a straight edge to run the saw along because I think it would be a more controlled process, the saw is sitting on the cut holding the ali down. The issue with aluminium is the teeth clogging, pieces of ali swarf get compressed against the teeth and then they don't cut as many have probably found when cutting ali with a holesaw and with the thinner sheet back it with something to prevent it vibrating.

 

[pe2dave]

I would be more tempted to use a jigsaw with the right blades and then use a straight edge to run the saw along because I think it would be a more controlled process, the saw is sitting on the cut holding the ali down. The issue with aluminium is the teeth clogging, pieces of ali swarf get compressed against the teeth and then they don't cut as many have probably found when cutting ali with a holesaw and with the thinner sheet back it with something to prevent it vibrating.

Saxton do a (reasonable) Al / plastic suited blade, less concerned about clogging.
The downside to a jigsaw is filing the edge after sawing - and a tracksaw should leave a straighter edge?
+1 on 'backing' for thinner material, as above.

 

[Inspector]

I've seen circular saws used for cutting sheet and plate stock. Proper blades needed. Lubricating the cut helps, especially with softer alloys like 6061-0 condition. There are waxlike sticks/tubes for the job that are also good in chop saws/bandsaws. Walter 53B303 Alucut Metal Cutting Lubricant, 300 Gram Solid Stick : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement rub it down the cutline and/or the side of the blade. Best to dedicate a saw for the job because it is not the easiest to clean off when going back to wood.

Be aware that some of the aircraft alloys are stronger and harder than commercial alloys especially the 7000 series. We had a know it all supervisor showing his guys how to cut the tabs, left after machining, off with a table saw. He had guys holding the long thin piece up while he feed it and they moved from behind him to front as the cut progressed and the part naturally cocked a little and jammed the blade. Thirteen teeth came off the blade and he got three of them imbedded deep in his shoulder. He was taken to ER to have them dug out. They went to an air powered jigsaw for that job after. Wear goggles, face shielder ear protectors, gloves, proper clothes and footwear.

Pete

 

[pe2dave]

Tks @Inspector a caution worth listening to.

 

[Jameshow]

I've seen circular saws used for cutting sheet and plate stock. Proper blades needed. Lubricating the cut helps, especially with softer alloys like 6061-0 condition. There are waxlike sticks/tubes for the job that are also good in chop saws/bandsaws. Walter 53B303 Alucut Metal Cutting Lubricant, 300 Gram Solid Stick : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement rub it down the cutline and/or the side of the blade. Best to dedicate a saw for the job because it is not the easiest to clean off when going back to wood.

Be aware that some of the aircraft alloys are stronger and harder than commercial alloys especially the 7000 series. We had a know it all supervisor showing his guys how to cut the tabs, left after machining, off with a table saw. He had guys holding the long thin piece up while he feed it and they moved from behind him to front as the cut progressed and the part naturally cocked a little and jammed the blade. Thirteen teeth came off the blade and he got three of them imbedded deep in his shoulder. He was taken to ER to have them dug out. They went to an air powered jigsaw for that job after. Wear goggles, face shielder ear protectors, gloves, proper clothes and footwear.

Pete

Summer time I guess!

 

[Inspector]

Summer time I guess!

???
Pete

 

[Droogs]

When I did both my router table tops (1 for Ktsu & 1 for Triton) I sandwiched the ali between some MDF as I found that you could get a bit of ragged swarf with the ali being soft and having MDF on both side gave a clean cut

 

[Sideways]

Be careful but don't overthink it.
TC is way harder than aluminium
I've cut several feet length of this 15mm ally

using this saw and it's stock woodworking blade.

It's a powerful saw and per the instructions you should slow it down to #3 out of 6 on the speed control.

The Festool tracksaws also have speed control and aluminium cutting blades are readily available. The TS55 isn't especially powerful but I'd expect it to handle 6mm plate without any issues.

 

[Chris70]

I have to cut a kitchen door in two. It’s glass-fronted, with aluminium trim. It’s actually two doors (joined by ‘Alno’ the maker) operating as one, on a tall pull-out cupboard. It’s 1.95m x 0.45m and I’m cutting it along its common 450mm length to make it operate as two hinged doors in different locations. As I’ve got to get it right first time I’m a tad nervous

I’ve bought the metal cutting blade for my TS55 so it should be a doddle?

Reading about blades clogging and swarf problems makes me tremble.

In the past, I tried my hand at cutting mitres on double glazing uPVC trim and found it would begin okay then just shatter, uggh. I guess the aluminium is a different kettle of fish?

Any tips about speed are welcome.

 

[pe2dave]

@Chris70 - Read the above responses, slow seems to be better.
Clogged blade = wrong blade?
Swarf? on a TS55? unlikely to get where it shouldn't.

 

[Distinterior]

I've never cut alloy with my tracksaws ( well,...never intentionally ☺) but I do quite regularly use a mitre saw to cut thin walled alloy extrusions.
I use an alloy specific, negative rake, tripple chip blade with about 80 teeth x 250mm dia. Plenty of support and proceed slowly... !

 

[hugov]

The Festool TS55 manual ("intended use" section) and supplementary manual (https://www.festoolusa.com/-/media/...nuals/festool-ts55req-supplemental-manual.pdf page 19) talk about cutting aluminium, so I'd say it's OK. I would definitely use an extractor to catch hopefully most of the chips, as ali chips are sharp and nasty, and you can't pick them up with magnets like steel chips. Also obviously good PPE. I would put the aluminium sheet on a sacrificial MDF/etc surface and the track straight on the aluminium. Selecting the right cut depth is important to minimize loading for thicker sheet (deeper, so the tangent of the saw blade disc is closer to perpendicular to the surface) and/or ensure teeth stay in the material (see supplemental manual; shallower so the cut is long and the teeth stay engaged for long enough not to catch).

 

[Spectric]

One point that should be made is that do you want to cut metal with your wood saw. I like to keep tools for wood and metal seperate and before woodworking came to the front and I was into metal, I kept ferrous and none ferrous tools apart as well so as not to contaminate any stainless with ferrous.

You may have the right blade but the swarf could be a pita to fully clean up and metal can be hard work on tools as well so maybe getting a cheap Aldi tracksaw would save the decent one for woodworking.

 

[pe2dave]

One point that should be made is that do you want to cut metal with your wood saw. I like to keep tools for wood and metal seperate and before woodworking came to the front and I was into metal, I kept ferrous and none ferrous tools apart as well so as not to contaminate any stainless with ferrous.

You may have the right blade but the swarf could be a pita to fully clean up and metal can be hard work on tools as well so maybe getting a cheap Aldi tracksaw would save the decent one for woodworking.

I'm guessing your first sentence is reversed, but point taken.
Comments on swarf noted, (never experienced, so I shall).
Found 'cheap' metal blade on Saxton blades.

 

[Sideways]

I find aluminium cut at the right speed makes confetti. The swarf isn't problematic and hoovers up without fuss. Keep the speed down so that the blade is able to take proper shavings and note that I was cutting with an 8" 16 tooth ripping blade !
I would get a dedicated (negative rake) blade if you have any significant amount to cut or intend to do so regularly.