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I don't think that's the problem.   For those of us who use toothed blades to prepare rough, sawn wood, it's standard practice to knock off the high spots with a scrub or other heavily cambered blade, then follow with the toothed blade.


I'm still rather baffled by your problem, but coming to the conclusion that a bevel-down toothed blade with modified cap iron like I use is a better option than a bevel-up plane with a toothed blade.


Cheers  :wink:


Paul


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