toolbag advice

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Am I to suppose, Mr Micawber, that you expect us to return to using wooden plans? Tish! You'll be be saying next that we should give employ to the local street urchins as apprentices.

Fact is, sir, that 5 or 10kg in plywood boxes would be better as 5 or 10kg on tools or ironmongery, methinks
 
so nobody has one of these makita bags ,think they are really designed mainly for power tools ,i have made in the past a few tool boxes out of timber last one i still have in the workshop ,to heavy to carry about in my opinion ,i have a big plastic tool box on wheels but again its a bit big ,it was a makita lxt600 that i am considering,
 
so nobody has one of these makita bags ,think they are really designed mainly for power tools ,i have made in the past a few tool boxes out of timber last one i still have in the workshop ,to heavy to carry about in my opinion ,i have a big plastic tool box on wheels but again its a bit big ,it was a makita lxt600 that i am considering,
If it’s the same bag you get when you buy a 6 piece cordless set then I had one about 14 odd years ago, I didn’t like it for the cordless tools & found it too big for hand tools as it didn’t have enough pockets so you were always having to search for the tool you wanted.
 
This may sound strange but have you considered using a medic backpack.. It is a much more ergonomic way to carry a large weight and they are very customisable as to their internal structure. Have a look at the below
https://www.defcon5italy.com/en/product/2953/defcon_5_medical_back_pack_d5-s1014.html

or


https://www.wessex-medical.com/shop/response-bags/aed-backpack-large/
Had an electrician to my workshop recently and he had a purpose-built backpack for electricians tools, so probably they are available for other trades as well, it would free up your hands to carry all the rest. Ian
 
I'd opt for a backpack type of carryall. This way at least it leaves your hands free for drill/other powertool boxes.
I bought many moons ago a Plano what is an electricians backpack and used that. Not the best backpack out there but the fact i could carry it on my back made lugging stuff much easier.
 
I have a Veto "tech-mc" for my electrickery testing gear.

it's OK to carry a laptop, and a LARGE selection of screwdrivers+stuff, but it's not big enough for joiner's tools - although a jack plane, 3ft level, and a jack saw could hang on the outside?
definitely no room for power tools larger than a little 12V drill/driver, though.

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I think I like the idea of a backpack type more than the actual practicality of it. My main bag is heavy enough just to sling on my shoulder, trying to get two straps on and not damage anything sounds tricky.
If I have a lot of stuff to lug about I use a small folding sack truck or just make 2 trips, depending on distance.
 
I think I like the idea of a backpack type more than the actual practicality of it. My main bag is heavy enough just to sling on my shoulder, trying to get two straps on and not damage anything sounds tricky.
If I have a lot of stuff to lug about I use a small folding sack truck or just make 2 trips, depending on distance.

I got mine for college. (just spent two years updating my electricians' qualifications for this millenium :ROFLMAO: - I finished my apprenticeship in '91, then moved into printing, instead, so just a tad out of date)
 
The OP is a joiner, and in general there is a minimum tool kit you need to carry which is something like cordless drill, cordless impact driver, bit set, spare battery, pry bar, saw, combi square, level(s), chisels, hammer, punches, nippers, block plane, screws, ironmongery, etc. That lot, and a travel mug and the almost obligatory mobile phone charger will just fit in a Stanley Fatmax back pack. It will also fit in a Makita LXT400 bag as well with a bit of space (albeit with all the tools sloshing around at the bottom), but either of these solutions leaves you picking out loads of stuff to get to the tool you actually need, which alway seen to sink to the bottom. And some tools, like hand saws and levels (and BTW joiners don't often use 3ft levels - too long for most standard door heads, too short for a door jamb), don't fit well in any sort of bag (my solution is to have a Bahco Ergo handle and separate blade which are short enough to fit in many more bags and boxes). That's why for smaller tools a Stanley/deWalt style tote with lods of pockets to organise your tools for ready access is better - but they aren't really big enough to carry a drill and driver in the tote, something you can do with the XL size Veto Pro Pac. Also worth understanding that many guys additionally wear either "cargo pants" with extra pockets and/or a tool belt.

I think the problems come when you start to add additional tools to do different tasks, as required, which could mean a cordless circular saw, 6ft level, laser level, cordless planer, cordless jig saw, folding hop up, door stop, etc.

Jack plane? Haven't seen anyone else use one on site for more than a decade. Too slow

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Just locking out today (3-point espagnolette locks, adjustable keeps, Euro barrels, handle sets, escutcheons, spy glasses, letter boxes, closers, intumescent strips, etc). Our doors are pre-routed with all the holes right (well, that's the theory)
 
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i have quite a lot of tools with me (never know what you going to need) i have a boat load of cordless gear as well as corded i usually carry them or store them in a large gorilla bucket i also have to remove all my tools every night from my van ,ha ha i do have a jack plane and a yankee screwdriver and brace with bits and a expansion bit never hardly use it mind, i have ordered a bag from ffx coming tomorrow ,sick of looking
 
Jack plane? Haven't seen anyone use one on site for more than a decade. Too slow

Mate of mine is a joiner: he uses a jack plane rather than a power plane for doors because he "hates sweeping up" and they're more tolerant of nails compared to a power plane.
I dunno?
I just do elecktrickery.
 
...a jack plane rather than a power plane for doors because he "hates sweeping up" and they're more tolerant of nails compared to a power plane.
I'd say less tolerant. Hit a nail with a jack plane and unless you carry a spare blade it can be a slow business grinding a big nick out. With a power planer you undo the screws, flip the blade over, and tighten up again. Takes a couple or three minutes, costs about £2.50 to £3.00 for a set of blades. New doors tend to come pre hung in casings/frames these days, so planing isn't such a regular thing (on refurbs or new fit out, anyway). What little is needed can often be done with a block plane, which is considerably smaller and lighter than a jack. Every job is different - each to their own.
 
well bag came its good quality i will be keeping it but i will be still looking for somthing similar to what i had ,the looking goes on, i use a cordless planner quite a lot but usually finish off with a handplane and sandpaper, and i do have a axe in my kit and find that very useful to some peoples amusement ,(old school)
 
well bag came its good quality i will be keeping it but i will be still looking for somthing similar to what i had ,the looking goes on, i use a cordless planner quite a lot but usually finish off with a handplane and sandpaper, and i do have a axe in my kit and find that very useful to some peoples amusement ,(old school)

Which did you end up going for?
 

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