Tool rest
- Thread starter RPM
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A
Anonymous
Guest
First off I would check the condition of the tool rest edge. It might still have factory paint if it's a new one, or have dents or nicks especially if it was second hand, badly stored or abused by a previous owner. I do just a very little amount of turning but I know what you mean when the gouge or skew judders. Every so often I use a hard wood block and some fine emory paper to run along the edge to make sure its smooth. Also are the backs of your gouge's smooth? If rest and gouge backs are polished smooth it should slide easily. Maybe a coat of wax would help also. Other more experienced woodturners may know better tip's.
Hope this helps, Mr S
Hope this helps, Mr S
treefella83
Established Member
the tool rest can get damaged from using a very thin parting tool or it just may be sap or resin or tannic acid from green timber either on the tool rest or the tool itself.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Good advice from mr Spanton...
it's inevitable that some nicks will appear with use; I prefer to give my toolrest a lick with a file... that said, I haven't needed to dress my DVR rst ...unlike previous Record ones :roll:
Filing is a bit like sanding... remove the worst with coarse and finish with fine... a smear of polish shouldn't do any harm :wink:
it's inevitable that some nicks will appear with use; I prefer to give my toolrest a lick with a file... that said, I haven't needed to dress my DVR rst ...unlike previous Record ones :roll:
Filing is a bit like sanding... remove the worst with coarse and finish with fine... a smear of polish shouldn't do any harm :wink:
greybeard
Established Member
Hands up at the start - I eventually gave up with the supplied rest and bought the Sorby round one - a) it's a harder steel!, and b) I'm not very good with angles and tangents and things but it just seemed to me to always offer the same amount of tool support whatever my angle of attack.
That helped quite a bit. And a quick whizz over with some sandpaper seems to rapidly remove any build up of whatever (dried sap?).
The second thing to do is to round off the square-edges of your tools - sounds simple but that alone makes one heck of a difference.
There is a third thing - it's the one I still keep getting wrong! - practise getting your tool firmly on the rest before making contact with the wood!
Good luck!
That helped quite a bit. And a quick whizz over with some sandpaper seems to rapidly remove any build up of whatever (dried sap?).
The second thing to do is to round off the square-edges of your tools - sounds simple but that alone makes one heck of a difference.
There is a third thing - it's the one I still keep getting wrong! - practise getting your tool firmly on the rest before making contact with the wood!
Good luck!
A
Anonymous
Guest
:!: :!: :!: never, ever, commence a cut unless the tool is supported by the toolrest ....
That's something I emphasize with every student I teach... it is fundamental to your safety!!!!!!!!
(I have established copyright on the following statement)
start safe... STAY SAFE :!:
Bodrighy
Established Member
I have foubd that if you put the tool on the rest and the bevel on the wood then lift your arm ntil it starts cuting it doesn't catch. Divug straight into a catch and 'bang!'
See I'm learning already. I'm going to start a thread of things not to do or stoopid mistakes. As a newbie I am going to have plenty of material and obvious (to the experts) things are often the things most neglected. Tried to pare down the rotten wood of a very old piece of elm, hoping that some of it might be of use. Take of all loose stuff first!!! Obvious, but not thought of! No harm done but a lesson learnt.
Pete
See I'm learning already. I'm going to start a thread of things not to do or stoopid mistakes. As a newbie I am going to have plenty of material and obvious (to the experts) things are often the things most neglected. Tried to pare down the rotten wood of a very old piece of elm, hoping that some of it might be of use. Take of all loose stuff first!!! Obvious, but not thought of! No harm done but a lesson learnt.
Pete
A
Anonymous
Guest
There's an old but time honoured maxim in teaching... never teach the wrong method e.g. "don't do it this way..."
chances are that people will remember... and do it :!: :wink:
bwlossie
Established Member
Once again, a "silly" question.....Spray with silicon. Is silicon furniture polish OK or are there additives which will clog up?
Bodrighy
Established Member
oldsoke":2xpz9kny said:
Is that the a gentle advisory note that such a thread may not be such a good idea? I teach IT and find that if people are forewarned about the things that can go wrong they remember how to rectify when they do happen. I will happily bow to your superior knowledge as a teacher in things wooden. Consequences of a mistake on the lathe can be a bit more disastrous.
Pete
A
Anonymous
Guest
Yes Pete :lol:
Please remember that it's just my opinion ... others' views may differ... :wink:
Please remember that it's just my opinion ... others' views may differ... :wink:
Right guys,
First of all thanks to you all for your replies. Much appreciated.
I have had my post answered in more ways than one.
It is painted, I have been turning green wood (maybe sap) it does have a few marks on it.
The steel....now then. the rest is (now I have been prompted to think about it)
not that good. I often wondered as I tried a spindle, why it would jitter as I got to each end. Do you think that it could also be a case of vibration due to a lack of support at each end?
If all that makes sense.
P.S Does anyone else suffer from "I know what I want to say, But it's hard work trying to type it?" :roll:
First of all thanks to you all for your replies. Much appreciated.
I have had my post answered in more ways than one.
It is painted, I have been turning green wood (maybe sap) it does have a few marks on it.
The steel....now then. the rest is (now I have been prompted to think about it)
not that good. I often wondered as I tried a spindle, why it would jitter as I got to each end. Do you think that it could also be a case of vibration due to a lack of support at each end?
If all that makes sense.
P.S Does anyone else suffer from "I know what I want to say, But it's hard work trying to type it?" :roll:
CHJ
Established Member
bwlossie":1xeyokl3 said:
I would not use any form of free silicone around wood that has to have a finish applied or glued. If the wood surface becomes contaminated then the finish or adhesive will not bond.
Silicone is used as a release agent when moulding for this very reason.
If you ever try to repaint woodwork where the lady of the house uses liberal amounts of silicone furniture spray you will see the effect demonstrated.
My daughter works for Pilkingtons in the USA, and says that silicones are not even allowed in building with the glass line, in case it prevents subsequent adhesion of windscreens formed from the glass.CHJ":3i4p51r4 said:
CHJ
Established Member
dickm":1q2kjfqg said:
I had the similar problems years ago in a research electronics and cable shop, the employees had used hand creams using silicones and lanolin, it caused havoc with the printed circuit and cable plug solder bonds.
greybeard
Established Member
Hi RPM
Following up on your comment yesterday (Saturday)......about jitters as you approach the end of the rest.
A couple more thoughts for you to consider; posture and angles.
First off, when you're sliding the chisel along the rest, you get a better result if you move/swing/sway from the hips (who said woodturning wasn't sexy?!), not by extending your arms.
Extend your arms and you lose control of the chisel.
It may not feel much different but I promise you a better end result - and slimmer hips too! Ok, that's a maybe for the slimmer hips, but the better finish is a definite.
The second runs on from the first, because by keeping the cutting close to you, and controlled, you maintain your angle of cut, and you also maintain the amount of pressure of chisel-to-wood too - both of which should also assist in a better finish and minimise any jitters.
Typing the above I've just had another thought about those jitters - are they most noticeable when you're turning spindles? And sometimes they result in a 'wavy' cut that can be a real pain to correct?
It's a common enough problem to have its own name - which I have of course now forgotten!
The 'waves ' are a result - allegedly - of poor chisel control (I should add that's 'allegedly' cos I don't understand the how of them - I'm not disbelieving the gurus on this!). The cure is to approach them positively but firmly, but most importantly at/with a slower lathe speed.
Hope this helps
Following up on your comment yesterday (Saturday)......about jitters as you approach the end of the rest.
A couple more thoughts for you to consider; posture and angles.
First off, when you're sliding the chisel along the rest, you get a better result if you move/swing/sway from the hips (who said woodturning wasn't sexy?!), not by extending your arms.
Extend your arms and you lose control of the chisel.
It may not feel much different but I promise you a better end result - and slimmer hips too! Ok, that's a maybe for the slimmer hips, but the better finish is a definite.
The second runs on from the first, because by keeping the cutting close to you, and controlled, you maintain your angle of cut, and you also maintain the amount of pressure of chisel-to-wood too - both of which should also assist in a better finish and minimise any jitters.
Typing the above I've just had another thought about those jitters - are they most noticeable when you're turning spindles? And sometimes they result in a 'wavy' cut that can be a real pain to correct?
It's a common enough problem to have its own name - which I have of course now forgotten!
The 'waves ' are a result - allegedly - of poor chisel control (I should add that's 'allegedly' cos I don't understand the how of them - I'm not disbelieving the gurus on this!). The cure is to approach them positively but firmly, but most importantly at/with a slower lathe speed.
Hope this helps
bwlossie
Established Member
Hi Guys,
You really are confusing me now.....
I have the video........Woodturning, A Foundation Course by Keith Rowley.
In it he states "I spray my bed bars 2/3 times a day" with silicone.
Was he wrong?
Barry.
You really are confusing me now.....
I have the video........Woodturning, A Foundation Course by Keith Rowley.
In it he states "I spray my bed bars 2/3 times a day" with silicone.
Was he wrong?
Barry.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Have you tried increasing the speed?
To get a really smooth traverse with say, a skew planing cut there are several factors that can affect the outcome as greybeard has already mentioned... within your own safety limits try changing one factor at a time and note the results...
without standing at your shoulder it's difficult to 'see' which elements need sorting... if you pass this way give me a call
To get a really smooth traverse with say, a skew planing cut there are several factors that can affect the outcome as greybeard has already mentioned... within your own safety limits try changing one factor at a time and note the results...
without standing at your shoulder it's difficult to 'see' which elements need sorting... if you pass this way give me a call
