Tool for awkward nut (not me)

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Replace the coach bolt, with a countersink bolt welded in place. Any tighting would be done by it's nut on the other side. This will allow either a Box spanner, or extra deep socket to the hinge nut.
Rust in the threads will soon over come a thin walled plastic"spanner"

Bod
 
Replace the coach bolt, with a countersink bolt welded in place. Any tighting would be done by it's nut on the other side. This will allow either a Box spanner, or extra deep socket to the hinge nut.
Rust in the threads will soon over come a thin walled plastic"spanner"
I'll look at doing something along those lines but it'll have to be at some point down the road. I know someone with welding gear but I'll need to broach the 'favour' after buying him a couple of pints, and that'll have to wait until life's a bit more 'normal'
 
Mr INspecter....
there are two types of ur wrench over here.....
the first with a cutout at the business end is very thick/heavy to make up strength for the metal lost....norm used for fuel/Hydraulic pipes...
second, is the type with a cutout around the middle, these are decsribbed at injector sockets.....the cutout enables the socket to undo Diesel
fuel injectors from the cylinder head, missing the sticky out pipe nipples....
what's the weather doin over there.....?
 
I've not read all the posts - but I have the same issue with my gate.... my solution was to loosen the nut on the loop/pin side, lift up the gate to take the pressure off the offending nut and adjust it whichever way it needs with my figures . . . slightly over-compensating - then let the gate back down and tighten the nut on the loop/pin side (which is accessible with an OE or adjustable)
 
I've not read all the posts - but I have the same issue with my gate.... my solution was to loosen the nut on the loop/pin side, lift up the gate to take the pressure off the offending nut and adjust it whichever way it needs with my figures . . . slightly over-compensating - then let the gate back down and tighten the nut on the loop/pin side (which is accessible with an OE or adjustable)
Yes, that's exactly what I've been doing - I just find turning the nut with my fingers awkward and, ultimately, a bit painful
 
Mr INspecter....
there are two types of ur wrench over here.....
the first with a cutout at the business end is very thick/heavy to make up strength for the metal lost....norm used for fuel/Hydraulic pipes...
second, is the type with a cutout around the middle, these are decsribbed at injector sockets.....the cutout enables the socket to undo Diesel
fuel injectors from the cylinder head, missing the sticky out pipe nipples....
what's the weather doin over there.....?

I was an aircraft mechanic for a dozen years or so before becoming an aerospace quality inspector so I know the tools, just not the name you gents give them. Same goes for the hardware. There is a flush head bolt with a square under the head like a carriage/coach bolt that are called plow bolts and there is a version with an even thinner countersink that I can't remember the name of. The thinner bolt for sure would be a good replacement for the bolt being used now and if the hinge steel is thick enough, the plow bolt would work. Then there would be no welding needed, just the right countersinking cutter.

It has beed unseasonably warm the last few days and will get to 11C today and 17C tomorrow. Then a dump of snow for the weekend and I think we will be subzero until spring. Tractor is ready to plow the driveway and I just have to move about 100BF of old fir boards into the shop from the garage and I can put the pickup inside for the winter.

Pete
 
Unless I have misunderstood the problem, once you have taken the nut off, slide a length of steel tube on so that the nut doesn’t need to go all the way down the thread, then you may be able to adjust it more easily away from that coach bolt head. Ian
 
Unless I have misunderstood the problem, once you have taken the nut off, slide a length of steel tube on so that the nut doesn’t need to go all the way down the thread, then you may be able to adjust it more easily away from that coach bolt head. Ian
That's an interesting idea... how closely would the steel tube diameter have to be matched to the bolt size to avoid excessive play at the hinge?
 
Yes, that's exactly what I've been doing - I just find turning the nut with my fingers awkward and, ultimately, a bit painful

Yebbut - how often are you having to adjust the hinge? I made the gate, it rained which expanded the timber a bit, I adjusted the hinge - and not touched it since (it may shrink a little in the summer but no enough to require adjustment.
 
On my wooden driveway gates, I have adjustable hinges (3 per side) and occasionally need to wind the hinges in/out a little to keep them aligned

The hinges are this type with 32mm nuts
View attachment 95794

Loosening off the outer nut is easy but, because of the coach bolt head behind the thread, there's no clearance to get a long 32mm socket over the inner bolt. There's not enough room above/below the nut to use a normal spanner and anything that I have with jaws that will open wide enough will not fit far enough in between the nut and the top/bottom plate to grip the nut properly.

I've been coping with this by lifting the gate with wedges to take the load off the hinges, fully loosening the outer nut and managing to turn the inner nut bit-by-bit with my fingers - this gets a bit painful after a while - and then retightening the outer nut.

I'm sure there must be a specialist spanner or set of grips for this sort of thing but I haven't had any luck finding anything that I can be certain will work

I'd be most grateful if someone can point me in the right direction

Perry
Hi I’m not sure but I think the way is to lift the gate off slacken the outside nut then rotate the hinge bolt to the right adjustment tightened the locking nut then replace the gate it’s the way it was done when a mate of mine had a pair of oak five bar gates fitted I watched them installing them.
hope this is of some use
 
How about addressing the problem of why they keep moving?
As I said earlier, I only installed them during the summer heatwave and, as the weather is getting significantly wetter, I need to adjust slightly for the dimensional changes.

I didn't mention it earlier as I was only asking about a tool to make turning the nut easier and didn't want to add extraneous information, but the reason I want to track the changes is that the gates are automated with an electric lock in the centre and I want to be sure that I know the likely max/min sizes of the two sides to try to ensure that the lock stays within its recommended operating gap.

Once I know the max/min, I can set the gate hinges to a position around halfway between max & min to allow for the seasonal changes and align the lock accordingly.
 
It's a nice idea but, due to the hinge design, I'd have to unbolt and drop the hinge pin plate in order to rotate the whole hinge bolt - the gate posts are wood and it's probably not the best idea to keep removing/replacing the fastenings

It's this style of hinge
View attachment 95801
I've got 6 of these hinges on my gates: I use a ring spanner, or combination spanner like these (Draper Heavy Duty Long Pattern Metric Combination Spanner Set 6 Piece) . You can reverse the ring on the nut to tighten/loosen as required. Combi spanners can be bought seperately which I did.
I use mine every year or so as the gates age and sag.
 
Unless I'm missing something a box end wrench should fit. You guys call them ring spanners I think. As an aircraft mechanic we came across nuts and bolts in tight places and if we had to would take a box end or socket and grind off more around it to make it fit. Better to do so with a cheaper wrench over an expensive one.

Pete
If you can't find a tool I'd measure the adjustment needed, remove the bracket, slacken the exposed nut near the eye and adjust by swizzling the bracket, lock it tight again and reassemble to the wooden post.
Oh and this time lubricate regularly!
 
Can we please not ressurect old threads where there is nothing to be gained and or the op may no longer be a participating UKW member. It is much better to start your own thread which will get more attention than something from the past.
 

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