Tissue box with a diamond pattern insert 2013

devonwoody · 26 May 2013

Earlier this year I asked about angles to create a box with a diamond patterned insert so here goes.

Because I expect to do some sanding to fit pieces together I have chosen a piece of timber that I call African Mahogany, its soft and its rubbish really, it was lying around at a timber yard ready to go into their scrap bin so I begged it.

Prepared the full length on the P/T and then put to the tablesaw to make some battens lengths.

Then got out my new super duper mitre gauge to produce 45 degree cuts, ( I did have to replace the saw plate to a zero clearance for the cuts)

I firstly cut four pieces to rough size and then prepared some maple to create the diamond shaped piece and did a dry run to work out the size of the maple insert.

Glued up the five pieces using titebond but with quite a few drops of superglue as well to each surface, this held the pieces together with hand holds for two or three minutes. I did put those pins in place to stop any drift whilst glue set after removing my hands. It worked.

Had a look at these pieces this morning and not quite perfect, so might put rebated borders on top and bottom edges. Also the timber will not plane nicely, (its sapwood) so I shall most probably have to hand sand at a later date to get a decent finish.

devonwoody · 28 May 2013

Cleaned those four pieces up,

and then found some waste lengths of abw and made some mouldings on the router table using roundover and a rebate bit. Glued to the four pieces ready to mitre at the next stage.

( switched over to those ash logs awaiting glue to set.)

Then listened and watched a story about timber also about life .

http://www.youtube.com/embed/J8Ioa1gVVe ... fo=0&rel=0

devonwoody · 29 May 2013

I cut the corner mitres and made rebates for the sliders then got to the glue up stage of the carcass.

I confess I was not confident of a successful outcome because the timber is very porous and glue is inclined to be absorbed by timber also masking tape will not grip the wood and keep in shape. In fact I had to hold corners of carcass to shape whilst glue got tacky and held. (hence glue marks showing on timber)

However I have had a look at the carcass this morning, although scruffy I am hopefull that everything will come right with some sanding.

Now going to practice that tune "The old rugged cross"

devonwoody · 30 May 2013

Hand sanded the carcass and I think it will be successful but will be varnished because I think wax would be absorbed whereas varnish should make a better seal.

Commenced the top and searched for suitable pieces of timber and managed to get this lot together without breaking into large stock pieces.

Glued them up to a pattern omitting the centre piece marked with X.

Whilst glue was setting I located a 3mm offcut to make the sliders, fit at crosses.

Finished the top with aperture after glue was set and sliders also applied.

devonwoody · 31 May 2013

I am reasonably happy with the outcome of this one, top now on and as mentioned this one will be varnished and sent on to a member here by way of thank you.