Timber framing chisel advice

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bradybill

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Hi All,

I'm looking for some advice on timber framing chisels (38mm - 1 1/2"). What I'm looking for is something that (apart from quality and durability) has a flat back out of the box or at least doesn't take long to get it flat given the size / hardness of some of these.

I've been looking at Barr, Robert Sorby, Henry Taylor and Petrograd and this is what I've found out (apologies if any of this is completely wrong).

Barr; these seem to be the flattest and almost ready to go. The downside is these are the most expensive, at least in the UK.
Robert Sorby (RS285); A name most will recognise and looking around at various forums the consensus is that these are good but do take a bit of time to flatten.
Henry Taylor; I have found a few places mentioning they are flat(ish) but not specifically the framing chisels.
Petrograd; I found these on the lovely Workshop Heaven - Fine Tools site but can't seem to find much information in terms of flatness (even from Фабрика Петроградъ ( Petrograd-toolworks )) but they do look interesting. I know they also have Arno chisels as well but they don't seem to do a 1 1/2"

The Barr seems a bit pricey and Robert Sorby (although known for quality) seems maybe a bit more effort to get flat. Henry Taylor seems reasonable value if it's flat but I'm still intrigued by the Petrograd.

Any thoughts on these or others most welcome.

thank you
Bill
 
what wood do you normally work and what moisture content?
 
I use Henry Taylor Diamic framing chisels 2" & 1", they've never missed a beat and I've been using them for 15 years. I changed the handles for some unvarnished and larger ash ones though

Why are you so fussed about them being flat on the back, framing has huge tolerances ?
 
If you're working deep, you'll also appreciate just a little bit of relief on the backs to steer them, too, rather than going in dead straight with perfectly flat backs. If the cut dives at all, you have no remedy.
 
I took a timber framing class for a week in 1990 and bought the Sorby 1 1/2" and 2" ones. They were pretty much flat from the git go and as the boys have already pointed out they don't have to be fine furniture small box anal retentive flat. I was pleased with them but there weren't too many alternatives then except for the Barr and they were too much for an amateur like me.

Pete
 
Thank you everyone this is all really helpful. I fear that I am just over thinking things and that it needs to be super flat when it's for framing. I knew of Ashley Iles but I didn't think they did framing chisels but that's probably my ignorance. I'd not looked at MHG but will have a look at those. Arno I considered but I didn't like the sizes they made.

Thank you for such quick responses - really appreciate it.
 
"Flattening" is a big obsession with the toolies. Hardly ever really an issue.
 
Yeah I fear I've got a bit too focused on that area. Always a learning game (well for me at least). Cheers.
 
have you looked at japanese framing chisels, i have two big boys that i used on a job recently. Flat, tough and seemed to hold and edge really well. They come up on ebay japan quite a bit. Underrated in my opinion.
 
I did think about them but got then got the fear that I would mess them up - maybe down the line once I've hacked up a few beams.
 
You won't go wrong with the Henry Taylor socketed ones. Normally, if I'm unhappy with a tool it goes in the Chest of Disappointment.

The HT ones are still in the framing tool roll.
 
I bought a 1 1/2 inch chisel from an old tool shop in Ealing. It has a WD stamp on the back (War Department), and a date stamp of 1888. It’s cast steel, holds an edge and sharp enough to shave with. Twenty pounds.
 
I've tried some framing and used my Stanley's and a huge hammer. the hammer was the most important tool. the bigger the better. surely anything that doesn't have a plastic handle will break? as to sharpness its an every day or 2 job as green oak is like tatty. seriously this is not a place for expensive tools. I bent my inch chisel
 

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I've tried some framing and used my Stanley's and a huge hammer. the hammer was the most important tool. the bigger the better. surely anything that doesn't have a plastic handle will break? as to sharpness its an every day or 2 job as green oak is like tatty. seriously this is not a place for expensive tools. I bent my inch chisel
That chisel is far to thin for framing lol
 
if you look only the unhardened bit has bent the chisel is still in daily use and sharp. the abuse that chisel had would make mincemeat of any wood handle "framing chisel" joiners know if your realistic anything with a wood handle won't last 2 minutes on site.
 

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