Threshold bevel cutting advice for a beginner

[kebabman]

I am a woodworking beginner attempting an external door and frame. I need to make the bevel to the threshold and to do this in as safe and as accurate a way as possible with the aim of making other doors in the future which would include some doubles.
Equipment available, planer/thicknesser, table saw, band saw, non tilting spindle moulder, skilsaw, hand plane, electric hand plane, hand held belt sander.
The Americans seem to use a table saw with guard removed which seems too dangerous. I tried using the planer with the fence adjusted but the wood moved about too much. So I was wondering whether the skilsaw set to form the bevel and then finished with the sander. Or maybe take my time and hand plane and then sand. If it would be best to make up a jig I could do that but I am thinking of making a double door threshold later on which I think would be best to do by taking tools to the work piece.
Any advice please?

 

[RobinBHM]

The bevel is often 9 degrees or perhaps 7.

The easiest way to do it is by making a false bed for the thicknesser which sits on the the bed of the machine, held in place by a batten at each end so it cant slide. Run your threshold through doing sufficient passes until you achieve the size of bevel you need.

Obviously you can only do a flat cill that way, so if the doors are open out then fit a batten on the inside to form the rebate and seal.

If the door is open in, then you are better off fitting an aluminium threshold on top of your cill -which still needs a water shed angle anyway. The old fashioned water bars are no good for draught proofing.

 

[kebabman]

Many thanks Robin