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Three phase table saw.
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Vann
Established Member
Over here (New Zealand, and Australia) a surface planer is called a buzzer, so...
You'll either have to look for a 3-phase surface planer - or change your non-de-plume to "Sawbench"
.
Good luck.
Cheers, Vann.
You'll either have to look for a 3-phase surface planer - or change your non-de-plume to "Sawbench"
.Good luck.
Cheers, Vann.
Cabinetman
Established Member
Hi, not sure that you actually need three-phase for that size of saw, I have a cast-iron Sedgwick with a 12 inch blade and that runs off a 16 amp single phase with no trouble at all. I can recommend the saw completely and it has a cross cut side table as well. Ian
Edit it’s a Sedgwick TA315.
Edit it’s a Sedgwick TA315.
Last edited:
Hi
I have a 325mm saw that runs from my std 13 amp socket, never trips and cuts well. If your shop has a three phase supply then a three phase saw makes sense as motors self start and run more efficiently but why 10 inch, first time you run out of depth you will wish you had a bigger blade. Also with three phase you will have more options secoundhand and are only limited by floorspace.
I have a 325mm saw that runs from my std 13 amp socket, never trips and cuts well. If your shop has a three phase supply then a three phase saw makes sense as motors self start and run more efficiently but why 10 inch, first time you run out of depth you will wish you had a bigger blade. Also with three phase you will have more options secoundhand and are only limited by floorspace.
Ollie78
Established Member
3 phase will probably be cheaper to buy and if you have the wiring setup then why not.
Ollie
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
No bother ripping iroko on my 3hp 12" Startrite 275 at max capacity on the 13a plug, normally never more than an hour at a time.
No extraction running though, as I don't have one.
I'm not anyway knowledgeable about electrics, so others are more than welcome to tear me a new one for something that doesn't sound right.
So take my advice with a pinch of salt!
I can't afford to get a sparkey in to test things.
I like being on the cautious side, and don't use the saw all that much.
The cable does not warm up after above amount of ripping, (in my shed, anyway)
I notice the lights dim whilst using my DeWalt 1800w heat gun, but not with the saw.
I ain't saying that's an alright thing, as it likely suggests my supply is weak, or something is not done correctly.
My shed is very close to the house CU (fusebox) 25 to 30 feet away,
+ my short extension cable is probably 10 feet, which should NOT be rolled up, as that creates a magnetic field.
It might be an idea to check a few things for a start, say if you've moved into a new place, mainly things like the cable thickness, distance from main CU, if the cable is the same throughout with no joins or visible damage.
A separate CU in shed, or old style cartridge fuses in my case,
what type of MCB or RCD fuse is in the box is another thing,
The higher the rating and type also is a factor if you're wires look on the thinner side, be wary (you might be able to see if there's any conduit joints)
and if you have a fuse that takes a large load, be it a quick surge from a largeish single phase induction motor, which a C type might be used for, or a type B which I believe is for a longer draw.
(but not sure)
These are all relative for your application.
I can't advise which is the safest type of breaker should one have skimpy wires, (that might be helpful)
And likely something else which should be mentioned?
...Most of these things are which a Joe Soap can check with their eyes, without needing a professional,
If doing more than that, it might be a good idea in that case to get an upgrade if needed.
Make sure the motor is dual voltage, and can be run 240V delta, if using a VFD.
Tom
No extraction running though, as I don't have one.
I'm not anyway knowledgeable about electrics, so others are more than welcome to tear me a new one for something that doesn't sound right.
So take my advice with a pinch of salt!
I can't afford to get a sparkey in to test things.
I like being on the cautious side, and don't use the saw all that much.
The cable does not warm up after above amount of ripping, (in my shed, anyway)
I notice the lights dim whilst using my DeWalt 1800w heat gun, but not with the saw.
I ain't saying that's an alright thing, as it likely suggests my supply is weak, or something is not done correctly.
My shed is very close to the house CU (fusebox) 25 to 30 feet away,
+ my short extension cable is probably 10 feet, which should NOT be rolled up, as that creates a magnetic field.
It might be an idea to check a few things for a start, say if you've moved into a new place, mainly things like the cable thickness, distance from main CU, if the cable is the same throughout with no joins or visible damage.
A separate CU in shed, or old style cartridge fuses in my case,
what type of MCB or RCD fuse is in the box is another thing,
The higher the rating and type also is a factor if you're wires look on the thinner side, be wary (you might be able to see if there's any conduit joints)
and if you have a fuse that takes a large load, be it a quick surge from a largeish single phase induction motor, which a C type might be used for, or a type B which I believe is for a longer draw.
(but not sure)
These are all relative for your application.
I can't advise which is the safest type of breaker should one have skimpy wires, (that might be helpful)
And likely something else which should be mentioned?
...Most of these things are which a Joe Soap can check with their eyes, without needing a professional,
If doing more than that, it might be a good idea in that case to get an upgrade if needed.
Make sure the motor is dual voltage, and can be run 240V delta, if using a VFD.
Tom
Last edited:
Cabinetman
Established Member
Yes I’m sure you’re right, I was meaning more that you don’t need to restrict yourself when looking. what sort of budget do you have? Happy hunting
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I have used and renovated a large number of saws, including Wadkin, Sedgwick and Startrite old iron. The best saw IMO that has to be 3 phase (usually around a 7.5KW main motor) which has a only a slightly larger foot print than the 10” AGS Wadkin is a SCM L’Invincibile Si15. They can rip over 5” and have a proper sliding cast iron table. There is also an optional sliding table extension and also a scribing blade. Why would I recommend it? Well, it’s the saw I now use, and is probably the most versatile, capable of serious ripping to panel work. They are built better than any other saw I’ve come across in this size, that includes all Wadkins, Sedgwick (old and new) and Startrite (old and new) to name a few. It weighs around 750KG without the optional extras and the castings trunions, fence bar and fence mechanism are massively over engineered and just massive. The top is a seriously thick piece of cast iron which doesn’t ever seem to wear. I’ve renovated a few, and all have had perfectly flat tops, you can usually see the machining marks in any photos that people put up when selling them. The paint is phenomena, the best paint of any saw I’ve come across. Incredibly thick and durable.
They sell for very little, in fact are two on eBay at the mo, a mustard coloured machine at a buy it now of £900 and green one at circa buy it now £2K. Neither of these I own or selling. I would myself buy the Mustard coloured machine at £900 and potentially cut down the length of the fence to allow it to just rip a sheet in half which would make the foot print better and still offer major scope. However I have a number of machines waiting to be renovated so I can’t fit it in. If it’s still not sold in a month or so, I will be buying it!
I don’t know why they sell for so little, I don’t think there are many about and as a consequence I don’t think people know about them.
If that doesn’t float your boat, a Wadkin AGS10 has the best trunion, and the Sedgwick 275 has a better fence mechanism. Both are excellent saws, and came in both single phase and 3 phase versions. However, when I renovate them I fit larger motors, as I personally found that the standard motor bogs down when cutting at its full capacity. It can do it, but you have to go slowly.
The Sedgwick LK is an excellent saw however, some don’t like that the saw blade doesn’t tilt. The modern version TA315 has a nice fence, but are terrible to do any maintenance on. Changing the belts for instance is not easy. The old LK has a simple and very sturdy mechanism that’s fairly easy to work on if it ever needs attention.
Im personally not a fan of either Felder or Hammer. Maintenance is very difficult and IMO they aren’t as well built as the older saws. However they are seen a premium brand with a lot of very satisfied users.
I like the modern SCM range of machines, those branded SCM.
They sell for very little, in fact are two on eBay at the mo, a mustard coloured machine at a buy it now of £900 and green one at circa buy it now £2K. Neither of these I own or selling. I would myself buy the Mustard coloured machine at £900 and potentially cut down the length of the fence to allow it to just rip a sheet in half which would make the foot print better and still offer major scope. However I have a number of machines waiting to be renovated so I can’t fit it in. If it’s still not sold in a month or so, I will be buying it!
I don’t know why they sell for so little, I don’t think there are many about and as a consequence I don’t think people know about them.
If that doesn’t float your boat, a Wadkin AGS10 has the best trunion, and the Sedgwick 275 has a better fence mechanism. Both are excellent saws, and came in both single phase and 3 phase versions. However, when I renovate them I fit larger motors, as I personally found that the standard motor bogs down when cutting at its full capacity. It can do it, but you have to go slowly.
The Sedgwick LK is an excellent saw however, some don’t like that the saw blade doesn’t tilt. The modern version TA315 has a nice fence, but are terrible to do any maintenance on. Changing the belts for instance is not easy. The old LK has a simple and very sturdy mechanism that’s fairly easy to work on if it ever needs attention.
Im personally not a fan of either Felder or Hammer. Maintenance is very difficult and IMO they aren’t as well built as the older saws. However they are seen a premium brand with a lot of very satisfied users.
I like the modern SCM range of machines, those branded SCM.
