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SteveF

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anyone got one of them tap n dies that make big wood thread \ nuts

are they any good

how big do they go up to

I am thinking for a face vice

or more to the point...can someone cut me one :D

Steve
 
Douglas (condeesteso) (may only be one e in it) has one that he has been making some moxon vices with. I have looked at it for a similar application that you are. They go up to a couple of inches I think, but start to get expensive at that stage. An alternative would be something like the beal wood threading system. If it is a one off, probably not cost effective with any system. If you plan to do more than one, may be worthwhile. I forget the details, but I have a feeling that the recommendation on diameter is larger than the largest tap and die set available, I may be wrong. Either that or the cost put me off.

I was warned about the sheer effort of using a large diameter one. I plan to get a small one to make hand vices with when I get around to it. Still haven't ruled out the beal system but it is another complex jiggy thing that needs tinkering with to use etc etc.
 
I've got the 1.5 x 6 tpi, which is the same thread as my lathe and works well. I have made a moxon vice with it which is in regular use. The problem with making a face vice with that box, is that the thread is not coarse enough to make tightening and undoing quick and easy . It's fine on a moxon, where you are generally dealing with wood thicknesses within a few mm (well I am anyway) for dovetailing etc, but it would take too long on a face vice I think. I believe old wooden threads come up in tool sales now and again and I would be looking at 2 tpi if possible.
 
Noggsy":nj7w7tqu said:
I've got the 1.5 x 6 tpi, which is the same thread as my lathe and works well. I have made a moxon vice with it which is in regular use. The problem with making a face vice with that box, is that the thread is not coarse enough to make tightening and undoing quick and easy . It's fine on a moxon, where you are generally dealing with wood thicknesses within a few mm (well I am anyway) for dovetailing etc, but it would take too long on a face vice I think. I believe old wooden threads come up in tool sales now and again and I would be looking at 2 tpi if possible.

Just my opinion, but I think 6tpi is plenty coarse enough for a vice screw. My home-made vice uses an 8tpi (metal) screw which I find is fast enough.
 
Out of interest it is quite easy to turn a large wood thread on a screw cutting Lathe, a little while ago I was asked to repair the legs on a grand piano, these screwed on/off with a I think it was about 38mm dia wooden thread on the end of each leg these all needed replacing and while I was working out how to make these an engineer happend to call in looking for work and said easy, and did a very good job of copying the origianls in Maple.
 
Hi all,
There are two problem areas associated with making Wood Threading tools for those of us with limited metal working facilities. Obviously these are making the tooth of the die, male threading part, and making the tap, for the female part. The Beal system uses a router with a 'V' cutter to form the male thread, and a purchased Tap to form the female thread.
Fortunately Axminster offer the Tooth of thier dies, thread box, as a spare. This has a maximum gap at the top of the 'V' of about 5mm. Of course, this means that the coarsest pitch can only be 5 tpi. I have idly wondered if a carving 'V' gouge could be used. Setting this cutter in a suitable block is fiddly but not terribly difficult. It is essential to remember that the outer diameter of the wood should be cut before the inner.
The tap is an altogether different problem, but the Beal system could be used of course.
A little while ago I successfully made a tap from a suitable flat bit. I started with the assumption that I was basically filing a saw tooth. The tooth angle, although not exactly the same as the die cutter, came straight off the saw file. Worst bit here was organising sufficient light, and visual magnification, to accurately mark out the teeth. The image shows the tap I made. In use it worked well, but any movement off-axis ruined the thread. Hence the nails, these are glued on with super glue and filed to the core diameter of the tapped hole. This tap is for 10mm threads and works suprisingly well on the gauges I used it on.
Smaller taps would be difficult using this method as the 6mm shank would come into play. Larger ones, well 1 1/4" flat bits are available, perhaps one day I may try one.
IMG_0001 cr bal.jpg

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/WOOD ... _TAPS.html are offering taps for headstock sized threads. I see amongst them is one at 1 1/2" at 6tpi.

xy
 

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I have seen a tutorial of cutting them by hand online. Think they used a v tool.
 
Sorry Steve :oops: . I got carried away, again. As has been said for a one, or two, off job then buying a pre-cut thread is the best way to go.
xy
 
Steve

Thread boxes for wood used to go up to about 3" (Marples catalogue, 1938 lists 14 sizes from 5/8" to 3"). There was a marvellous set of big ones at the last David Stanley auction which went for £500 - see https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post831616.html#p831616

Big ones are quite rare and expensive. Peugeot made some very nice ones.

For lots more info on how well they work, have a look at this thread where you can read the story of how Douglas has used them for big chunky bench vice screws:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/moxon-add-on-vices-t61367.html

and especially this post by BugBear which has some excellent links https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post770354.html#p770354

Be sure to watch the Roy Underhill programme on how to make and use them too: http://video.unctv.org/video/2365015311/
 
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