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Bodrighy

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I want to do some threaded joints on spindles, it's hat stands that can be dismantled for transport. I don't want to go to the expense and learning curve with chasers at the moment and was wondering if anyone had used these and were they any good. Look much the same as the metal ones I can just about remember using in school. I only need a coarse thread so they would seem to be fine but any advice or info before spending would be appreciated.

pete
 
Hi Pete,

I got a set. It works ok, the tap is the best bit. Main problem is the die part. It works by using a V shaped cutter positioned inside the wooden box thingy, mine wasn't cutting quite right so I adjusted the cutter, now the bloody thing doesn't work at all :evil: :evil: (homer) !!!

I now use the taps and hand cut the male part with chasers, which is the easier bit of thread chasing.

Sorry I couldn't be more positive....

HTH

Richard
 
Thanks Richard, there's one review on it on the Ax. site which raves but it would wouldn't it :lol: I remember cutting the metal ones and that was easy as long as you had a steady hand. Might get a set and hope mine works, remember not to adjust it :D I'll wait a bit and see if any others have any experience of them. At 1/2 the price of chasers it'd be a much better option if they work as I can't see me doing the small things anytime in the near future.

pete
 
the cheap and simple option would be to insert a thread rod and a nut or bush, not as nice but you've probably already got the tools to do it

Aidan
 
TheTiddles":1lciokaj said:
the cheap and simple option would be to insert a thread rod and a nut or bush, not as nice but you've probably already got the tools to do it

Aidan

That's what I have done in the past but it doesn't look as good does it? Also if I can cut my own it opens up possibilities for other things. I have an antique garlic crusher for example that I'd like to have a go at but it works with a thread and I couldn't do it with metal really.

pete
 
I reccomended (passed on the information where they were obtainable) a larger one of these to a lady who wanted to build a press of some sort. She reported back that it did the job just fine.

Of course their is the other option of the thread cutting jig on ebay. I don't know the size of the cutter but it looks to be about the same size as the chuck thread which is 3/4".
Sorry the link is old but I believe the sale is neverending :)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WOODTURNING-LATHE ... 439ef98373
 
Iv'e tried chasers and tap and die, but have to say neither is perfect. Best results have been with chasers on male threads; female ones are definitely more difficult. And on the end of spindle work, I'm guessing female thread would be well nigh impossible with a chaser. So maybe you need chaser for the male and a tap for the female!
Actually, for male threads, it's relatively easy to make your own chaser, which I had to do to make a missing piece for an old marking gauge. Piece of flat bar and file the teeth across the end at the correct pitch. Ideally, you'd use carbon steel and temper it, but for a once (or even a few) off, any old stuff will do.
 
What about a big version of the brass to brass fitting found on snooker cues etc ? - would that give a join and still look good ?
 
Pete.

I have a set of these, 1" i think, though there are quite a few bits in the box, as i bought the box when the chairman of my local turning club sadly passed away & his turning gear was sold by his widow to raise money for charity.

I have never used them, so don`t know how good they are, but would happily lend them you if you would like to try before you buy.

I can take a photo of what i have if you are interested.


Cheers.


Doug.
 
Pete.

This is they, i had a quick gander at the instructions & it appears what is shown in the photo is all that is necessary to cut threads.

CIMG5111.jpg


The 2 wooden blocks with holes in look like templates Derek made, so i don`t think you would need these, as the size of the holes are in the instructions.


cheers.

doug.
 
... And I guess it may be obvious to most .. but as with all manual threading .... not to go at it like a bull at a gate.

Cut a little, back the tool off, forward again and cut a little more, back off again and so on...
Not that I've cut any threads on wood, but done more on carbon and stainless steels than I could shake a stick at... so I'm guessing this cant be too much different.

As said, it may sound an 'obvious' approach, but for anyone who's never used taps & dies, the temptation to be a little bit 'eager' can prevail ! --
I can think of quite a number of apprentices who suddenly found a stinging pain on their ear-flesh as a result of such eagerness ! :lol:

keep us updated Pete .. be interested to hear how this particular project goes ! :D
 
Thanks everyone, lot of good advice here. That looks exactly what I am thinking of Doug, I'll PM you later...got a wedding reception to go which is apparently more important :roll:

Pete
 
I've got one, and used it successfully. Although the ones that Axminster sell seem to turn up all over the world under different names - presumably from the same Chinese factory - the quality is good, apart from the poly varnish.

The keys to success are having the v-cutter sharp, lined up right, and taking a cut to suit the wood. Threads work best on hard, close-grained woods - beech and holly are both excellent - but if the wood is hard you may not be able to cut the whole depth in one go. Adjustment is by slackening off the cutter clamp and sliding it further in or out. A reference line drawn on the cutter and the box with a marker pen is useful in seeing how far to move it.
The diameter of the wood you thread should be a comfortable sliding fit into the plain hole in the box. For a male thread it should be the same size as the narrow tip of the tap.

Roy underhill describes how to make and use these in this video:

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2700/2704.html
 
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