thin ripping jig?

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Assuming the wood being sawn is parallel then no problems. Actually you could just use it as a setting gauge and remove it from the slot each time you make the cut. Not sure what it adds over cutting the thin strips between the fence and teh blade (assuming you have set the fence correctly
 
All kind of a waste of time. You could just use your mitre gauge with a flag stop, cut a stick say half the length of the mitre gauge fence and slide the flag stop to position the end of that stick where her bolt head is. You've made basically the same adjustable stop in 2 minutes from a piece of scrap wood.
 
All kind of a waste of time. You could just use your mitre gauge with a flag stop, cut a stick say half the length of the mitre gauge fence and slide the flag stop to position the end of that stick where her bolt head is. You've made basically the same adjustable stop in 2 minutes from a piece of scrap wood.
Interestingly i watched this video last week when i was trying to figure out how to cut some 1/4" loose tenons, and ended up using my mitre fence just as you suggest, worked fine. I guess the only benefit of that jig is that with a screw thread you can micro adjust a bit easier....
 
Thats the safe side of the blade to cut thin strips. Better than having the thin strip between the fence and blade.
If the rip fence is set correctly, it should not extend to point where it may trap thin pieces. The problem is a lot of cheaper saws have fences the full length of the table which cant be adjusted
 
My saw fence can be adjusted for length but I still like thin strips coming off the clear side of the blade. Easier to use a push stick if you have more room.
Regards
John
 
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