The Turning Quest 2012

[CHJ]

A few more bits assembled into something resembling a box.

Beech, Walnut & Oak. 175mm dia.

 

[CHJ]

Root of some description from the depths of Rich Burrows wood mine and the aluminium sweepings from the bandsaw.

Think the Walnut lid has got to go or be reworked, came out much lighter than expected although the contrast is not so great as the photo' would suggest.

130mm dia. 150mm high.

 

[CHJ]

Seeing as Bowls are flavour of the month, thought I had better do another one.

Beech, Ash & Walnut. 200mm dia.

 

[nev]

chas, have you somehow managed to join two separate pieces of timber with a wibbledy line for the base or is it just a wonder of nature?

 

[CHJ]

chas, have you somehow managed to join two separate pieces of timber with a wibbledy line for the base or is it just a wonder of nature?

Just a wonder of nature, Spalted Beech.

 

[philb88]

That first splated bowl is a stunner!
Only an hours work, very impressive! Was it an already dried piece, or turned green (well as green as spalted wood gets!)

 

[CHJ]

That first splated bowl is a stunner!
Only an hours work, very impressive! Was it an already dried piece, or turned green (well as green as spalted wood gets!)

Already dried, it was part of a Log sliced up by someone about 18months ago to try and obtain some Beech slabs for me to make Cutting boards for them, I noticed that whilst drying they had spalted badly despite my efforts to avoid it, so I went back to the shed last october to salvage anything that had not been burnt.

So this is where those two bowls came from.

Very quick to turn because of the softness of the wood caused by spalting, most time was taken up by sealing to add strength to surface.

 

[philb88]

Looks much better as Splated bowls rather than nice plain grain Beech!! Would all most of been a waste for cutting boards! Has a real uniform spalting, most Ive had is quite irregular like your second one!

 

[Alli]

Hi CHJ,

Your boxes are amazing, may I ask how you shape the curved sections that make up the lid? Do you use a router and template? I am really intrigued how you get the glue lines so tight.

Nice work.
Cheers David =D>

 

[CHJ]

...... may I ask how you shape the curved sections that make up the lid? ..

Bandsaw and sanded, this is the way to do it well most of it :lol: just a couple of simple jigs for the sanding.

 

[philb88]

...... may I ask how you shape the curved sections that make up the lid? ..

Bandsaw and sanded, this is the way to do it well most of it :lol: just a couple of simple jigs for the sanding.

Thats a great step-by-step, don't think I ever seen the Cole Jaws used for such a variety of the uses, especially in one item!

 

[Alli]

Thanks for the info. very informative. :lol: Does the sanding jig just keep the sandpaper at 90 Degrees? or is it in the shape of the curve your trying to create.

Sorry for all the questions, I am just impressed but bewildered how you get the gaps between the curves so tight.

 

[CHJ]

Jigs maintain the 90 deg and form the required radius. A certain amount of simple but careful set-up involved of course.

 

[Alli]

Thanks for the insight.
Cheers David

 

[boysie39]

Chas, what a start to 2012 how you manage to get into the workshop is beyond me, what with all your other commitments ie your work on the forum + your everyday ones.

Just watched your WIP with the Cole jaws, they really are a useful item when used in a proper way.

Looking forward to your Quest for the rest of the year.

Good Health,

 

[CHJ]

Just bowling along as usual.

Burr Tulip, Walnut & Oak. 180mm dia.

 

[Paul.J]

Beautiful work as per usual Chas.
I reckon you should have an article in a well known turning magazine,with all the help and knowledge you provide to everyone.
Can't say that i've seen Burr Tulipwood before??
Are you finding any shrinkage problems with these pieces you are doing??

 

[CHJ]

.......Can't say that i've seen Burr Tulipwood before??

Picked it up a couple of years ago at one of the warwickshire shows, not my favorite wood to work being rather on the soft side but thought the figure was worth the effort. Have enough for another piece in similar vein.

.......Are you finding any shrinkage problems with these pieces you are doing??

I know of one piece now in Germany that has some character wood in the segments that is coming back for treatment, the joins are fine but the wood itself has failed, should look OK when it's been filled and cleaned up. Wood was obviously higher moisture content than I realised. Tried to bring it back xmas but was told it was too useful and would have to wait until UK summer visitors brought it with them.

All the segment stuff is as dry as I can get it before glueing and not seen or had reports of failures so far, although would not be surprised if a lid let go, fingers crossed no one puts them in the sun, above a radiator or very damp room.

 

[paulm]

An hours worth of playing with yet more rotten wood.

Spalted Beech, 195mm dia.

Just catching up on your thread Chas and like the classy look of the ring on the foot of this piece, nice and elegant. Do you make it like a normal bead as you would in spindle turning, or use a shaped scraper ? Do you get much tearing or breakout or crumbling on the end grain areas of the bead or does it just depend on the timber ?

I've just invested in a cheap Warco version (£75 delivered) of my Vicmarc chuck to dedicate to the use of my cole jaws as I could never be bothered mounting them each time, and the alternative mdf circular board never felt secure or accurate enough for me.

Was going to get an axi goliath chuck for that because of the extra range of movement of the jaws, but they seem to be perpetually out of stock so went with the Vicmarc clone instead. The tolerances of jaw carriers are very slack and the scrolling mechanism a bit graunchy, so it's no Vicmarc in reality despite looking the same, but should do fine for the purpose as the cole jaws are Vicmarc and fit fine,

Could do with swapping the rather hard and squarish profile plastic holding blocks on the cole jaws for some slightly softer round ones like yours which I think would be less likely to mark softer timbers. Wonder if I could make some up from old plastic wine corks ? :lol:

Cheers, Paul

 

[CHJ]

[......the ring on the foot of this piece, .... Do you make it like a normal bead as you would in spindle turning, or use a shaped scraper ? Do you get much tearing or breakout or crumbling on the end grain areas of the bead or does it just depend on the timber ?

I cheat and use Asley Iles beading tools Paul.

Yes as they are basically scrapers there is a problem with tearout in short grain sections. Short and brittle grain like Oak can be a little tricky, as indeed spalted stuff. I find a combination of sanding sealer to wet the wood or worst case CA can get over the problems. I guess oil would do similar to the SS if that is the intended finish.

.....Was going to get an axi goliath chuck for that because of the extra range of movement of the jaws,

Shame if you haven't got a 125mm chuck, that extra travel turns a useful but often frustrating tool into a pleasurable go-to tool of choice for me.

......Could do with swapping the rather hard and squarish profile plastic holding blocks on the cole jaws for some slightly softer round ones like yours which I think would be less likely to mark softer timbers. Wonder if I could make some up from old plastic wine corks ?

I have some made from stacked thicknesses of old kitchen chopping board. Biggest problem if turning freehand is getting them all the same diameter. The Axi ones are a very soft rubber on an Ali. core, getting close to needing some replacements but the high price has been putting replacement off. If your chuck only has standard travel then might be useful to make up some studs half a pitch bigger diameter, then some of the frustrations of finding yourself in between standard stud spacing can be overcome.