The Trivial Trivet

[MikeW]

This is a cross post from WoodNet...thought you might want to see.

Hi Y'all,

The latest issue of Woodworking Magazine has a simple trivet in it. Here's the link to the current issue. Scroll down for a [too] small graphic of the lead-in page:

http://www.woodworking-magazine.com/backissue.asp?issuedate=3/1/2007

Woodworking magazine, btw, gets a hearty recommendation from me if you don't already buy the issues...

The article uses typical power tool methods to make it. It is made using rail and stile construction, mortise and tenon joinery. Tile in the center which rests on a rabbeted edge. So you know, ya build the thing, take a router and a rabbeting bit that is set for width/depth, run it around the inside and square the corners. Easy if not noisy and dusty.

When I am remaking something for efficient and good hand tool methods, my mind sometimes gets all befuddled because of the different thinking about how to solve a particular problem.

So the question is, how do you do it with hand tools and avoid making a stopped rabbet on the stiles? Or does one go through the hassle of making the stopped rabbets on such a short length [tile is 8" x 8"], or does one do the through rabbets and then one cut overlapping ends on the rails to cover the rabbets on the stiles, which is a raditional method?

I've done it before a certain way, but I had to think about it--and still got a width issue messed up in my head until I started to cut wood and had a forehead-slapping moment.

Here's a few pictures which should show how I did it.

While I didn't take pictures of the actual making, the above pictures who that I rabbeted along the entire lengths of the rails and stiles and trimmed back the rabbet on the stiles. The result is similar to have started up the noisy router [if I could find it in the storage shed].

I would contend on something easy like this, the overall time to make the frame, mortise and hand saw the tenons was faster than machine set up and change-over.

Oh. One last tip if you use this project to work on your hand tool skills and still have something useful when done. I used a brace and bit to drill out for the mortise rather than simply chopping them out. The reason was the short end-grain at the end of the mortise. I didn't want levering out the waste to break out the end of the mortise.

Take care, Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

my mind sometimes gets all befuddled because of the different thinking about how to solve a particular problem.

Glad I'm not the only one An interesting set of pictures, Mike. Thanks for posting them.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Pete W]

Good tips, Mike - and very cleanly-cut joinery . What tools/process did you use for the rabbets?

I guess you could also cut full-length rabbets and then mitre the corners. I know there are additional issues with getting a nice tight mitre - just raising it as another possibility. I'd go with your method.

 

[MikeW]

Good tips, Mike - and very cleanly-cut joinery . What tools/process did you use for the rabbets?

I guess you could also cut full-length rabbets and then mitre the corners. I know there are additional issues with getting a nice tight mitre - just raising it as another possibility. I'd go with your method.

Hi Paul 'n' Pete. Thank you for the kind words. It was really kind of slap-dash to show someone how to do something. My mom liked it, though.

I used a moving fillister to cut the rabbets. Set it beside the tile and ran the depth stop onto the top of the tile to set the depth. Set the fence for the width of the rabbet by the "that's enough" method :lol:

After I was done, I also thought I should have mitered the rabbet joins like I would on a door with beading around an opening. But, it'll never be seen unless the adhesive lets go of the tile and there are feet covering the bottom side.

Take care, Mike

 

[MarcW]

What a fine solution Mike,

Last time I did that M&T joint , though I had my problems finding out, I did leave the rabbet and elongated one side on the second piece. I made a recess, well difficult to explain, but the pic maybe does better.

Here a WIP pic:

Thanks for posting that, I will try that out next time #-o :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

Nice thing. I used to do same thing but lathe turned for round tiles made by local potter. Problem was holding the tile in - too tight and a danger of breaking. Settled on double sided sellotape pads for display purposes, then just having a loose tile.
For a framed one I'd do it slightly differently. I'd bring the tenon into line with the inner edge, and face of rebate so that on this snap the tenon would fill the gap you can see. So only 3 shoulders instead of 4.

snip

snip

cheers
Jacob

 

[MikeW]

Hi Jacob,

Yep, it may be easier cutting but 3 shoulders. And I think the mitered rebate would have been nice as well.

My thought when I ran out to the shop to show this was easy with hand tools was to have the rebate offset like that on the stile for clearance leveraging the waste from the mortise. I realized how dumb that thought was the first bash or two and I thought with the mortise so close to the end of the stile I may just bust out the end. Which is why I promptly switched to using the brace and bit to drill the mortises. I had also cut the tenons following the rebates, so my design was cast in stone.

The risk to blowing out the mortise is another reason to do it as you suggest as there would be more material at the end of the mortise--less chance to break out the end.



Take care, Mike