The problem and my solution ( I hope )

[Blister]

My garage workshop has a steel up and over door fitted , and as its winter I am loosing heat through it , I have already insulated all the walls and roof so it was time to get a door ,
Yikes :shock: £1000 , or find a way of doing it myself

Here is what I had done

The door

.

The door has a folded edge to give it some strength and a basic frame to hold it together

I used the edge to fix 3/4" thick polystyrene boards , had to cut a rebate so they slotted in , only at the top and bottom of the door

.

Started infilling section by section

.

worked my way across til it was all fitted , some panels were held in place with some industrial adhesive I had left over from a job in the house

I also had to deal with a big gap / wind tunnel :roll: under the door , so

out with the damp proof membrane

and fixed it the the bottom of the first 8ft xx 4ft sheet of 6mm ply

Then on to fixing it to the inside of the door

I lined everything up and put in two fixing screws and penny washers just to hold it in place for marking out the remaining fixing points , I could not mark these out before fixing so used my chalk line , marked the garage floor on the outer points and I could see the ribs at the top so just pinged a line drilled the holes and fixed all the screws and washers

The lower section is now fixed ,

tomorrow the upper section and then some sealant around the door frame on the outside , a few draft excluder strips

and hopefully , the jobs s gooden :ho2

total cost , no more than £80 all in

Hope this may help other with this type of door

Allen

 

[Esox Lucius]

That looks just the job and the door appears the same as mine...one thing i would like to know when you are done is this.

Does the door still stay open with the added weight? My doors spring does not give me confidence it would hold that.

Thanks

Mark

 

[Blister]

That looks just the job and the door appears the same as mine...one thing i would like to know when you are done is this.

Does the door still stay open with the added weight? My doors spring does not give me confidence it would hold that.

Thanks

Mark

My door is quite stiff , so it should stay up . if not I will just use a prop to hold it when open

I will let you know what happens :wink:

 

[Racers]

Hi, Blister

Did the same to mine it works very well.

You should be able to put some more tension on the spring if you can't keep it up :wink:


Pete

 

[Esox Lucius]

Hehe..guess it is does need a little more tension to help keep it up..the door that is.

thanks

Mark

 

[kirkpoore1]

You should be able to put some more tension on the spring if you can't keep it up :wink:


Pete

Just be aware that when those springs break, it can be a real pants-changer.

Kirk
who had one of those springs go one time...

 

[mailee]

A number of years back I had to add 18" to the bottom of my up and over door to accomodate a boat. (I actually raised the roof and the door!) I added a section of steel on the bottom but then of course it was too heavy to stay open. I attached pulleys to the top corners of the frame and used some steel wire over them with one end attached to the door slider and the other attached to two cylinders filled with lead shot which ran inside two sections of plastic drainage pipe. It worked a treat even if it did look a bit Heath Robinson. :lol:

 

[Lons]

I just spent £130 and put in a Chamberlain electric opener on my very heavy double glassfibre door. Holds the door beautifully in any position I choose and no more bad back lifting it.
Absolute luxury and been in for 6 years without problems though it does encroach into the roof space.

Bob

 

[eoinsgaff]

To seal the bottom of the door you could use a length of insulation used to wrap around plumbing pipes. It has a good deal of compression which would form the shape of the ground with the weight of the door.

Just a thought

Eoin