The Fruits of Ebay.

[Jelly]

In a simmilar vein to the carboot threads; I went to a party recently and someone, in their intoxicated widsom suggested [slurring somewhat] that everyone should whip out their smartphones and make an ebay bid on something for 99p... I chose to bid on a number of items and here they are... Thank-you random drunkard!

From left to right: James Howarth Mitre Plane (for that item only, I increased my bid later and paid about £20 in the end), Stanley 13-050 scarcely used but a tad rusty and missing most of the bead cutters, a set of five Footprint firmer chisels (1/8" to 1/2") and footprint augers (No.8 and 1")


The mitre plane has had some hammer over the years (literally looking at the heel of it), but the makers mark is still very clear.

I was also shocked at how wide the mouth is; but upon testing it, it still performed very well smoothing end-grain on some scrap russian redwood, not quite glassy, but clean and well defined... the chip breaker is fitted extremely tight to the bevel, and the iron is still bedded perfectly, which probably explains it. It may interest some (and dismay many more) to note that the iron has been sharpened with a convex bevel as is the bent of a certain forumite; certainly works very well like that.

Either way, it's far better than using my jointer or a bailey plane.


The Chisels were not really a neccessary purchase (though I did lack a 1/8", and 99p for that alone would have been worthwhile, the other 4 are just bonus prizes!), but I have a soft-spot for footprint tools, so I'm pretty happy with them, all but the 6mm (mix of metric and imperial) which is chipped still had a sharp edge on them, but clearly haven't been touched in a long while.

The 13-050 is complete, in good nic other than spots of surface rust and works very well, I find the design is actually quite an elegant technical solution and easy to work with... not pretty though.

The irons were rusty but still sharp... i think the nicker's need touching up, but it still cut cleanly and fairly easily in this state.

The augers, are both pretty sharp still, clearly not seen a lot of use but been stored well; they're an awful lot better than the modern SDS-compatible augers I briefly owned before.

All in all, a pretty good haul.

 

[G S Haydon]

Just shows how little you have to invest for decent joinery tools to get you going. Good haul!

 

[AndyT]

That wooden plane is interesting and not common. If another thread has got you wanting to do panelling by hand it will be ideal for fielding the panels. Your Stanley plough will do to groove the frames but unless you want to work left handed you will need to swap the fence to the other side.
All useful tools.

 

[Jacob]

... It may interest some (and dismay many more) to note that the iron has been sharpened with a convex bevel as is the bent of a certain forumite;

Old planes often have convex bevels. The only remarkable thing about it is that it is seen as remarkable.

.. certainly works very well like that.

Why would it not?

 

[Jelly]

... It may interest some (and dismay many more) to note that the iron has been sharpened with a convex bevel as is the bent of a certain forumite;

Old planes often have convex bevels. The only remarkable thing about it is that it is seen as remarkable.

.. certainly works very well like that.

Why would it not?

I think you misunderstand my intent there... Often someone states 'if thats how they used to do it, why do you never see it on old tools...' I'm just noting that you do, even on quite fine ones; the way I sharpen is roughly the same as you, (for most tools).

 

[Jacob]

That wooden plane is interesting and not common. If another thread has got you wanting to do panelling by hand it will be ideal for fielding the panels. ........
.

I think that could be what it's intended for - the blade goes right to the edge like a shoulder plane, which isn't necessary for a mitre plane but would be good of you were doing fielded panels with a flat tongue around the edge, as it would get into the corner.
Getting into corners is the whole point of all those planes with open sided mouths and raised panels could be the reason behind "carriage" planes too.
Hence you woody is a carriage plane?

 

[Richard T]

Looks like a non - skewed badger.



( A badger.)

 

[Jacob]

Oh right. Carriage plane and badger plane do the same thing i.e. work corners? Do wooden badger planes come opposite handed? Skew rebate planes don't seem to but I bet there are a few left handers about.

 

[AndyT]

I'd have said Jelly's plane was a badger if it had a rear handle - I've only seen badger planes which do- but the skewed blade coming out to the corner is their defining feature. Jelly, does the top of your plane look like it used to have a handle?

 

[bugbear]

I'd have said Jelly's plane was a badger if it had a rear handle - I've only seen badger planes which do- but the skewed blade coming out to the corner is their defining feature. Jelly, does the top of your plane look like it used to have a handle?

+1; it's a badger (essentially a MONSTER rebate plane), until proven otherwise.

Mitre planes have mouths closed on both sides.

Badgers aren't especially common, since neither are monster rebates.

IIRC the origin of the name is uncertain.

BugBear

 

[Jelly]

I'd have said Jelly's plane was a badger if it had a rear handle - I've only seen badger planes which do- but the skewed blade coming out to the corner is their defining feature. Jelly, does the top of your plane look like it used to have a handle?

Nothing to indicate there was ever a handle (there is a nasty mark where it appears that someone either went to start boring into it, or used it as a backstop to bore a hole in something else with an auger, but that looks to have happened a long time ago, probably before my lifetime) and the wedge would probably foul on the position of your hand anyway...

It's a fairly strange plane, having had a closer look it does seem to be a small Badger essentially... perhaps it's better described as a Stoat? It does have a lower bed-angle than a normal plane would, which means it's still better than my others as a mitre plane; so now I can shoot endgrain, raise panels, and make 2½" wide rebates, unexpected win!

 

[AndyT]

It is skewed, isn't it?

Your first pic (with the plane on the shooting board) makes it look skewed but the close-up without the ends showing makes it look square. And is it about 17 inches long?

 

[Jelly]

It is skewed, isn't it?

Your first pic (with the plane on the shooting board) makes it look skewed but the close-up without the ends showing makes it look square. And is it about 17 inches long?

Yeah skewed by about 15-20 degrees, but just shy of 13 inches long...

 

[bugbear]

I've taken a look at some references, primarily Salaman, They all agree;

Salaman says that a badger plane is mainly for making the rebates that form raised panels, albeit without a parallel tongue (see panel thread!!),
but he also says that badgers (and panel planes) were made with steep (50°) bedding angles, so if yours
is lower (can you measure it carefully?) it would be unsual. He lists the size as varying between smoother and jack.

In the same chapter, he says that the skew is always like yours, so that the plane is pulled into the cut as you go, as opposed to the skew trying to pull the plane out of the cut.
All woodworkers are (of course) right handed, at least as far as the toolmakers of old are concerned!

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

.......
All woodworkers are (of course) right handed, at least as far as the toolmakers of old are concerned!

BugBear

Ambidextrous. Essential really, that's why there are so few left handed tools - nobody needs them except for rare occurrences of grain problems perhaps.

 

[G S Haydon]

Badger planes to the best of my knowledge (book evidence only, not tried it myself yet) used on big rebates too. A groove is first made to the widest point of the rebate and to its full depth thus creating a rebate upstand. The bulk of the rebate is then removed by chiseling and finishing up with the badger.

 

[bugbear]

Badger planes to the best of my knowledge (book evidence only, not tried it myself yet) used on big rebates too. A groove is first made to the widest point of the rebate and to its full depth thus creating a rebate upstand. The bulk of the rebate is then removed by chiseling and finishing up with the badger.

if you've grooved out the rebate wall to full depth, and take the precaution of using a wide enough cutter (say 3/8") you can remove the rest of the waste with a normal jack plane.

BugBear

 

[Reggie]

.......
All woodworkers are (of course) right handed, at least as far as the toolmakers of old are concerned!

BugBear

Ambidextrous. Essential really, that's why there are so few left handed tools - nobody needs them except for rare occurrences of grain problems perhaps.

I must be an exception, being left handed, although to be fair it feels like these aren't even my hands some times. It's also probably why I like the ps videos, he's also left handed.

 

[Richard T]

Roy on all things panel raising, culminating in badgery.

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3200/3209.html

 

[bugbear]

Roy on all things panel raising, culminating in badgery.

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/3200/3209.html

And one of the great underused tools - the skew rebate!

That badger sounded really sweet on the cross grain didn't it?

BugBear