The Axminster AC216TS thread - impressions and tips etc.

[Bodgers]

Hi Bodgers,

Nope - I never let the fence sit off the table as the whole thing looks like it would collapse as soon as you let the fence go (I didn't dare try it out). I've had the fence off most of the time anyway - only ripped twice to try the saw out, as I don't fancy ripping with a misaligned fence. And the base was slightly loose right from the start. It looks like the factory tried to compensate for the oversized screws by driving them hard into the aluminium base, but there was not enough clearance.

Anyway, once set up and with a zero clearance insert, the saw should be a great wee beastie - just slightly annoyed with all the faffing about. Hopefully, the next batch would be better controlled at source.

I am puzzled by all the problems you have had - you must of had just had a bad one.

What really stands out to me, especially compared to the TS200, is just how spot on everything was out of the box.

It's very strange with the bottoming out on those bolts. I have what look to be the exact same bolts and aluminium components and I can clearly see space between the bottom of the bolts and the aluminium slot bottom in the same space. Like I said, mine is rock solid and I have never touched it.



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[MikeJhn]

May be an idea for both of you to measure the length of your bolts and compare them. Oh Er Missis.

 

[M_Chavez]

May be an idea for both of you to measure the length of your bolts and compare them. Oh Er Missis.

Should I include the nuts in total length measurement?

 

[M_Chavez]

Well, if anyone's interested, I've filed the bolts and the fence started acting as intended. Easy fix.

 

[Bodgers]

Well, if anyone's interested, I've filed the bolts and the fence started acting as intended. Easy fix.

Strange one, they must have fitted the wrong bolts. Bit of a QA problem.



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[SammyQ]

Rodgers, have you deleted your videos please? Links are coming up empty.
Sam

 

[Bodgers]

Rodgers, have you deleted your videos please? Links are coming up empty.
Sam

I have. I kept getting comments from people on one of them saying I deliberately mislead people by showing the wrong side of the cut in test cut etc. It wasn't worth the hassle in the end.

If I can be bothered I'll film a shorter one and post it sometime.

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[SammyQ]

Thanks for such a quick reply. I was just curious, having had one of the old 200's and now a Wadkin AGS, but I was considering reverting to an Axi on grounds of space in my 'new' garage being limited. Nae probs.

Sam

 

[Yosarian]

What are people using for a dust extractor for this?

I have extremely limited space, but my NVD750 only pulls about 300m3/hour, which is well below the required 850m3/hour. I just about have space for a 1HP chip extractor (https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-c ... tor-105111 for example) with the collection bag mounted in some sort of external cupboard, which would just meet the minimum 850m3/hour on paper. However, I'm also aware of other sources like Bill Pentz (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclon ... corner.cfm) who recommend at least 1000CFM (~1700m3/hour) for adequate fine dust extraction. I just don't have the space for something this powerful.

Whatever extractor would be used in conjunction with my Airshield Pro, as well as an extractor fan and Record air filter. I suppose my question is: am I wasting my money on a LPHV 1HP chip extractor? Or will it significantly improve dust collection over my HPLV NVD750?

Thanks.


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[Bodgers]

What are people using for a dust extractor for this?

I have extremely limited space, but my NVD750 only pulls about 300m3/hour, which is well below the required 850m3/hour. I just about have space for a 1HP chip extractor (https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-c ... tor-105111 for example) with the collection bag mounted in some sort of external cupboard, which would just meet the minimum 850m3/hour on paper. However, I'm also aware of other sources like Bill Pentz (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclon ... corner.cfm) who recommend at least 1000CFM (~1700m3/hour) for adequate fine dust extraction. I just don't have the space for something this powerful.

Whatever extractor would be used in conjunction with my Airshield Pro, as well as an extractor fan and Record air filter. I suppose my question is: am I wasting my money on a LPHV 1HP chip extractor? Or will it significantly improve dust collection over my HPLV NVD750?

Thanks.


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I am in the middle of building my own from an induction motor at the moment.
I couldn't answer If it was worth spending the money as I have no experience of either extraction unit.

Currently I use a Titan Shop Vac which probably doesn't have the same extraction rate as yours.

I have found that the extractor isn't too bad if you make a zero clearance insert and make sure the guard extraction is fitted. The zero clearance ensures you get more going into the rear outlet. The bottom of the unit directs dust into the rear outlet much better than the old TS200.

 

[MikeJhn]

Anything with a higher meter cube/hour will improve your extraction stands to reason, the vacuum type cleaner extractors are for dust extraction from hand tools and will not clear large chips or shavings, for that you need a LPHV extractor, the higher M3/hr the better, do not be fooled by cyclones they only prevent dust from reaching the filters and in fact reduce the amount of suction from your extractor, longer pipe lengths mean more friction, to be effective you will need to overwhelm your requirements rather than just reach the minimum recommended by the manufacturer.

Chip and dust extraction is as equally important as your machines if not more so, buy the highest M3/hr you can get especially if you are thinking of a Planner Thicknesser down the line, get rid of something you don't use often to accommodate it, some of the Axminster units are only 1000M3/hr whereas for the same footprint they also have a 2000M3/hr, look carefully and only buy once.

 

[Yosarian]

Bodger's, what power motor will you be using? I already have a zero clearance insert, and try to use the hood guard/extractor when possible.

I could possibly get a 2HP 2000m3/hour extractor (https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-c ... tor-105099). However, it looks harder to modify to get the motor inside the workshop but bag(s) outside when compared to the 1HP unit. I'm thinking some sort of 100mm diameter hose through the wall.

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[Bodgers]

Bodger's, what power motor will you be using? I already have a zero clearance insert, and try to use the hood guard/extractor when possible.

I could possibly get a 2HP 2000m3/hour extractor (https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-c ... tor-105099). However, it looks harder to modify to get the motor inside the workshop but bag(s) outside when compared to the 1HP unit. I'm thinking some sort of 100mm diameter hose through the wall.

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It is 1500w. Just a typical universal motor shop vac

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[kstano83]

I´m getting keen on this saw and wondering if it is technically possible to put a "John Heisz´s fence" on this without too much hassle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhMBYwm9E8
https://ibuildit.ca/plans/wooden-table-saw-fence/
Once the rails of the fence are removed, are there any holes where it can be attached?

 

[transatlantic]

I´m getting keen on this saw and wondering if it is technically possible to put a "John Heisz´s fence" on this without too much hassle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhMBYwm9E8
https://ibuildit.ca/plans/wooden-table-saw-fence/
Once the rails of the fence are removed, are there any holes where it can be attached?

You might want to take a look at the manual (on the Axminster site)

There doesn't appear to be any threaded holes on the front, only the sides. So you would have to mount extension wings, and then mount the fence rail to the wings.

..or drill and tap your own holes.

 

[Emstuv]

If memory serves they are located underneath the table top. You would either have to use some angle brackets/iron or tap new holes.

Can double check when I get home.

The fence is a slight let down on the saw.

The tabletop is however the same length as the DW745 I believe......... there may be a way of incorporating the rack & pinion fence from an old DW745 on the saw.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

I´m getting keen on this saw and wondering if it is technically possible to put a "John Heisz´s fence" on this without too much hassle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIhMBYwm9E8
https://ibuildit.ca/plans/wooden-table-saw-fence/
Once the rails of the fence are removed, are there any holes where it can be attached?

The fence is integral to the table extensions - in other words you would need something to replace the fence at the front, because that is what keeps the sheet metal in place. Having reread that, I'm not sure it's very clear.

Sorry for the tiny picture: where the fence bar extends to the right, this is what attaches and supports the black table top (not the cast iron). It's only a few bolts when all is said and done, so anything is possible, but it may be more exciting than just swapping out the fence system.

 

[kstano83]

I have noticed here in the video at 27:58 https://youtu.be/twNox6dfuFA?t=1678 that the bars are attached to the cast iron top by (several) screws from the bottom. Is that correct?
Can you remove the front case to gett better access to those screws?
How thick is the top any how big gap is between the bottom of the top and the red part of the front case?

 

[Trainee neophyte]

I have noticed here in the video at 27:58 that the bars are attached to the cast iron top by (several) screws from the bottom. Is that correct?
Can you remove the front case to gett better access to those screws?
How thick is the top any how big gap is between the bottom of the top and the red part of the front case?

Can you wait until tomorrow? I'm not in a position right now...I want to say there is an inch or so overhang at the front, but I could be wrong - I tend not to look underneath.

 

[kstano83]

Absolutely yes! Take your time.
Oh, i forgot to post a link to the video Edited