Tapered Spindles Advice

[Jamesc]

I have to make two tapered spindles (Columns) for a project, they are about 3ft long and taper their full length on all 4 sides from 1 1/2" to 7/8". I have seen a few fancy taper cutting jig designs but they all seem to rely on having a square un-tapered section for registration.
My plan is to mark-out and cut the rough shape on the bandsaw and then plane to shape.
Before I start I thought I would tap the collective wisdome to see if there is a better way.
I have a good collection of hand tools, along with a decent sized table saw, planer thicknesser, bandsaw and router table.
I can only get into my workshop on weekends so can spend the rest of the week working out the best way to do things.

James

 

[rogxwhit]

Since it sounds like you're after a straight taper it seems a bit silly to use a bandsaw - straight lines are better cut on a sawbench, which you say you have. A simple taper jig can be knocked up in 10 mins, any fanciness would be superfluous.

Can we assume that you need the ends to be square to the column axis? That would be a fairly good reason for preparing the blanks with parallel sides to start with, then squaring the ends and proceeding to the tapering operation. It's all about logic and a progression of reference faces.

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks rogxwhit, I am not fussed about a fancy jig, I am firmly in the camp of getting the job done.
The problem as I see it (and I may be overthinking things which is why I posted here) is that once you have cut 2 sides your reference faces for a taper jig are removed. Also clamping would be more difficlut. Do you think taping back the waste (obviously offset) would give an accurate result?

 

[rogxwhit]

Suppose you could tape back the waste, if the thickness of the tape wouldn't interfere with the register. Think I'd be inclined to arrange a two-stage jig, though.

I hadn't envisaged clamps. Thinking back to the sawbench, beware of anything metal that could loosen in use and contact the blade.

 

[Jamesc]

OK, that has me thinking a simple board to clamp the spindle to, cut to width and the fence kept in place to maintain settings then carfully mark out the squared blank on the ends and a couple of strap clamps to hold it down.
A block could set the position of the thicker end and set the tapered end to a pencil line should be pretty accurate (they need to look the same not sub mm perfect). The spindle would be fully supported - this was a main worry as I have a healthy respect for the damage a table saw can do. I know a few wood workers who can't count to ten without taking their socks off.

 

[Jacob]

...
My plan is to mark-out and cut the rough shape on the bandsaw and then plane to shape.
....

Spot on, how else?
Basically if you mark your 1 1/2" square at one end and 7/8" at the other and join up the marks.
Join them with pencil lines for the band saw and when sawn just plane them to join the squares, checking for straight/twist by eye, as you go.
Plane them against a stop on your bench top, placed at the end so that the plane can overshoot without hitting the bench itself. I'd probably just use one short No 10 wood screw - no clamps needed but another stop on the side could help.

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks Jacob,
I knew I could rely on you for a simple straightforward answer. As I said in my first post I can't get inot the workshop during the week so I end up over thinking things. Rogxwhit's advice would work but I think I will go with this, even a simple jig will take as long to make as they will to cut out and I would still have top plane them anyway.

 

[Jacob]

Thanks Jacob,
I knew I could rely on you for a simple straightforward answer. As I said in my first post I can't get inot the workshop during the week so I end up over thinking things. Rogxwhit's advice would work but I think I will go with this, even a simple jig will take as long to make as they will to cut out and I would still have top plane them anyway.

Improvised stops can be really useful. Screws are good - the head presses in to the workpiece and locates it to some extent. Nailed on laths are handy. If you bench top is too finely finished and polished for nailing into then lay a bit of MDF over. Might be worth keeping, stops and all, if you are likely to repeat the op.

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks Jacob,
The bench is a tool to be used as needed. I am happy to nail and screw into it as required. I only have 2 of these to make (I hope) so keeping a jig will just get in the way. The battens are a good idea.

 

[Inspector]

I'll give you another option to mull over and dismiss but it might help someone else someday. A sled for the thicknesser. Simply a piece of your favourite scrap of sheet goods or a flat board longer than the leg. It is the same principal of using a sled to flatten twisted boards when you don't have a surfacer.

Glue, hot glue or small brad a thin block the amount of taper you want, with a second a little thicker behind it to hold the leg against, and a second set beside thicker by the amount of the taper you have removed from the first face.

Put the leg on the sled, taper material coming off trailing against the stop.

Feed it into the thicknesser and it will start removing material from the foot with each pass, alternating between legs for each setting until done. Material coming off at the end of the pass not first.

Result. Tapered and smooth on each face.

When done set the sled aside until next time or remove the stops and use the board for something else.

Pete

 

[Jamesc]

Thank Pete, another good idea to mull over

 

[Linus]

Thank Pete, another good idea to mull over

Don't know if it is relevant but I made a jig for making tapered table legs using instructions from Paul Sellers. It may be adaptable for your task.

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks Linus, Interesting jig. Unfortunately I don't think it is suitable for tapering all 4 faces

 

[Linus]

Thanks Linus, Interesting jig. Unfortunately I don't think it is suitable for tapering all 4 faces

Sorry James, I don't understand. Why do you need to taper all 4 faces? If you start your stock with 2 sides planed square to each other, then you only need to taper the opposing faces to achieve your aim.

 

[Jacob]

Sorry James, I don't understand. Why do you need to taper all 4 faces? If you start your stock with 2 sides planed square to each other, then you only need to taper the opposing faces to achieve your aim.

Yes but Seller's jig is bit useless anyway as if you are capable of planing two sides square without the jig you can easily taper the other two sides, working to marks, also without the jig.
Sellers just coming up with "good ideas"! There's a lot of them about!

 

[Jamesc]

As a follow up, after a fun run in with flue I have finally finished the project.

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions

 

[Fireburst]

As a follow up, after a fun run in with flue I have finally finished the project.

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions

View attachment 148325

Nice work

 

[Jamesc]

Nice work

Thank you

 

[kinverkid]

That is a beautiful piece of work. Can I ask if you did the copper work too?

 

[Jamesc]

Thank you Kinverkid,
No I did not do the copper I am afraid (I would love to be that skilled). The copper was a purchase from Ebay which kicked off the projectect.