Tapered holes or what? And what drill-stand?

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normanwisdom":3hwmol3n said:
I'm intending to make some primitive furniture from my firewood/offcuts pile - things like milking stools, pig benches etc which have simple splayed legs in a hole in the top piece, with a wedge.
Question is - was this sort of basic windsor chair construction done with parallel sided or tapered holes?
Both. Most ('Murrican) sources say thou must useth tapered, but John Brown never did AFAIK, and what's good enough for him...

normanwisdom":3hwmol3n said:
Tapered seems a good idea as it would be self tightening. How would you drill it - with a modified flat-bit perhaps?
Ordinary bit then ream it with a reamer; flat bit might work though. For a reamer you could try a bit of DIY or wait a bit until the Lee Valley ones come out (soon, so I keep being told :roll: ), but then you might well already have one for all I know. :)

normanwisdom":3hwmol3n said:
The trad tool was a 'spoon bit'. Were these tapered?
Not traditionally, as far as I'm aware, but Clifton do one in these modern times. Brace yourself for the price...

normanwisdom":3hwmol3n said:
I'd need a drill stand to get the angle right. Any recommendations? Doesn't have to be engineering quality but would need to be sturdy.
Pish tush! Surely you'll be out with your bevel, working out your sight lines and boring by eye with a brace as the tool gods intended? :roll: :wink:

normal_beechchair046.JPG


Cheers, Alf
 
I have repair ed lots of windsors and most if not all have had parallel sided, I am not saying Alf is wrong ( 8-[ ).
You can also wedge the dowel 6-8 mm from the edgeand you should have a stong joint IMHO :)
( Getting my coat and running for the car 8-[ )
 
Colin C":28tnfgrm said:
I have repaired lots of windsors and most if not all have had parallel sided, I am not saying Alf is wrong ( 8-[ ).
You're right, you're not. :p 'Cos I did say most 'Murrican sources say tapered, not that I did! :wink: Not having any British sources except JB I wasn't going to stick my neck out and say for certain it was a national difference, although the lack of any mention of tapered chairmaker's spoon bits in Salaman is a pretty good indication I suppose. No idea why the 'Murricans should have found tapered so necessary while Brits did not. :-k

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":2759p535 said:
No idea why the 'Murricans should have found tapered so necessary while Brits did not.
Cheers, Alf

May it have been ease of getting tight fit, no need for exact hole size and room to adjust angle in the first instance? or because first exponents were from different part of europe?
 
The thing is that when you glue up a windsor, if the angles are a little off or a little lose.
They will tighten up if you have rails in it and most do and lock when you wedge them:?
 
Alf":1cqmyrgw said:
No idea why the 'Murricans should have found tapered so necessary while Brits did not. :-k
Tapered mortises can be stronger. At least on paper. I think the concept that the angle of the wedges, the angle of the tapered holes and the mating of the tenon all the way down its kerf to the tapered hole appears stronger, or in one sense easier [assuming one has a tapered reamer], is a good one.

Whether it truly is necessary, I have no real idea due to limited experience. I have heard the sound of splitting in round and rectangular through tenons before using non-tapered holes when tapping in the wedges. Never have on tapered ones.

Or it can simply be the perception of a difference, the creating of a new tradition. Possibly based around an argument that tapered is better, stronger, less likely to fail, regardless if it is true.

Take care, Mike
 

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