Tape measure for inside measurements

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Woodmonkey

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I want to get a tape for measuring gaps wall to wall or floor to ceiling with the little window which takes the size of the case into account, rather than having to bend the end and guess. The two that seem to crop up are the festool one which apparently is not very robust and theres a Stanley one which only seems to come as a 5 metre, 3 would be better. For site work so does need to be robust-ish, any recommendations?
 
The bmi visio will take an inside measurement (OEM for festo) look at Talmeter for something btter
Matt
 
I have a Leica Disto D110 that works beautifully. You can (though you don't have to) link it via Bluetoothto your mobile to record all the measurements.
 
What are we talking about for an accurate laser, compared to 10 or 15 quid for a tape?
 
The Leicas start at about £90, so a good whack more, but much easier to handle, especially past 2-3 metres or if (because of obstructions) you have to measure at high level.

How far do you need to measure, and how accurately?
 
I'm fitting bedrooms so rarely more than 3 metres, needs to be accurate to within 1mm over that distance
 
Woodmonkey":3koqw59t said:
I'm fitting bedrooms so rarely more than 3 metres, needs to be accurate to within 1mm over that distance

Ah - for only 3m a laser is a bit overkill, and most are accurate to 1.5mm until you spend rather serious money. Don't mind me.
 
Um, it is not trivial to find a tape measure accurate to 1 mm over 3 m. There is a very good page on accuracy here: http://www.hultafors.com/about-our-prod ... precision/

You will see that you need a EU Class I tape measure which will just do it. You can get them here: http://www.thetapestore.co.uk/tapes-rul ... e-measures. These Fisco tapes don't have the window you asked for but do have an exact 100mm case width which makes inside measurements pretty easy. MOST tape measures that you buy will not have this accuracy. Stanley do not even state their accuracy class on their website. Engraved steel rules are usually good, engraved verniers even better, and if you check your tape measure against one of these you will often find errors of 1 mm in as little as 500 mm. Or just check all your tape measures against each other. The printing process used to print most tape measures is not that accurate.

If it is repeatability (resolution) rather than accuracy that you want, then most tape measures will do this of course. This is OK if, and only if, you are using the same tape measure in the same way (i.e. using the same bit of tape) for your site reading and for the thing you want to fit to this dimension. It's a cheap way to do it, and here the digital indicators can be very useful (I note that Rutlands don't state the accuracy class of their digitally-reading tape, though). But if 1 mm in 3 m is critical and you use two different tape measures of less than Class I you probably would be in trouble.

Bear in mind also that a steel tape measure will change its length by 0.4 mm for a 10 degree change in temperature. Fibreglass is worse (only class II seems to be available) and can be affected by humidity also. So if there is a 10 degree temperature difference between the bedroom and your workshop, you could slip over that 1 mm accuracy, and it would even affect repeatability.

The BMI VISO is a neat idea though it is only Class II accuracy. Likely to be much better than an uncertified tape measure, though.

(precision/repeatability is how closely you can group a set of darts; accuracy is how close the group is to the target).

Cheers

Keith
 
"Bend the end and guess" is what's called experience, and iv'e found that cheaper lasers, when you read the
expected accuracy, + or - are not really cost effective, and something else to lug around.
Probably best if you had a clean piece of timber for a gauge rod, cut to you're eye line, 2x1, or 3x1
Then measure the ceiling or whatever, it ought to be accurate as long as the tape and gauge rod are upright.
As it's opposite you're eye line you should even be capable of allowing for 1/2 a mil full, etc.
Then just cut to the gauge rod plus you're measurement, or add on the Rod's length, say 1.800, simples!
It works horizontal too!
Regards Rodders
 
I dont think I would try measuring a plaster to plaster or plaster to floor with a 1mm accuracy. 'on the bend' has always been good enough, but then Ive always designed fitted cabinetry with scribe trims.
 
As the task of taking floor to ceiling and wall to wall measurements will be done often for the proposed purpose I'm just wondering if some form of telescopic pole/rod could be used, and then the measurement taken from that using a standard accurate tape measure?
Similar to Rodders suggestion of using a guide rod but rather than just using a length of timber the telescopic pole could be more versatile.
 
Thanks fellas, food for thought. I guess I overestimated how accurate I can/need to be. I have tried rodders method which works but I'd a bit of a faff, and inevitably end up losing the block of wood somewhere
 
I use Talmeter measures for this - they used to make a really nice 3m measure with a 25mm blade, but was sadly discontinued when Hultafors took them over, and I find the 3m tape with the 16mm blade a bit lightweight; the 6m tape is good, but a bit chunky in the pocket. Unfortunately I broke the tip on my fave Talmeter so I'm using an uneasy mix of the 3m and 6m. Sigh.
 
Woodmonkey":d33wop73 said:
Thanks fellas, food for thought. I guess I overestimated how accurate I can/need to be. I have tried rodders method which works but I'd a bit of a faff, and inevitably end up losing the block of wood somewhere

A few turns of coloured insulation tape will identify you're gauge rodd.
Regards Rodders
 
Any tape measure normally has the length of the body printed on its side. I just use the tape measure internally, and then use the same tape measure when marking out. Tape end to back of tape measure) Doesn't really matter what it actually measures as long as it's the same tape measure that's used for everything it will come out fine. A good 7' spirit level is invaluable to check walls for being flat and plumb taking measurements at top middle and bottom vertically and then along the depth. The level checks that the opening is not leaning to one side (trapezoid) which can cause a lot of frustration, and also for any lumps in the wall / bow. Generally for good walls I'd allow 1/4" and for bad walls the width you are happy to scribe an insert piece to.
 
Get a metre long metal ruler,(or shorter), set it against one end of the space to be measured, then measure up to it with the tape. No need for bending and guessing.
 

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