Tailstock chuck

[Escudo]

Hello there,

Which is the best tailstock chuck to buy?

I would like to try and drill a hole using this on my lathe. I have the baby Jet lathe and this is MT2 size.

Any pointers guidance much appreciated.

Cheers, Tony.

 

[wizer]

I think you're talking about a Jacobs Chuck Tony? If so, I don't think there's much between them tbh. I think I got mine from ebay, 15-20 quid. You just have to match the morse taper to your machine.

 

[laird]

I've just got one from Turners Toolbox, 2MT, £12.95
http://www.turnerstoolbox.com/product_r ... uct_id=101

 

[Bodrighy]

You need a No 2 morse Jacobs chuck. Ebay as suggested, Axminster, all as good as one another really.

Pete

 

[Escudo]

That is a good pointer Laird. I will go for the same as you. £12.95 seems quite reasonable.

I have never used one of these chucks in my lathe, is there an approach or technique to ensure safe accurate drilling.

Thanks for advice, Tony.

On another note Laird I see you are in the lead for my screwdriver, I was thinking of offering a lifetime guarantee on this, just in case it fails or breaks.

 

[Bodrighy]

Put your lathe at the slowest speed and don't try and drill all in one go. Ypui'll know if you do, you'll see smoke. Turn the drill into the wood with the tailstock, do a bt at a time, pulling it out and moving the tailstock up to drill again. This is really important with hard woods like oak etc as it really does get hot.

Some people put the chuck onto the headstock and push the wood onto it but personally I find this awkward and never manage to get a straight hole.

Pete

 

[CHJ]

A couple of things to note when selecting 'Jacobs' style chucks.

For lathe work I find a key operated one is best.

Larger chucks, over 10mm capacity "may" have a minimum size of drill they will grip, (say 3mm.)

Chucks up to 10mm capacity usually have ability to grip down to 1mm.

The working range is worth checking to make sure it covers your needs.

 

[dennisk]

I am pretty well self taught but I mount the drill chuck on the tailstock, and use the screw feed to bring the bit to the spinning wood. U se a slower speed and feed the bit into the wood. I even use a large toothed forstner to waste the center out of bowls, boxes etc.

 

[Jonzjob]

I got mine from Axminster. It screws onto the arbor which is handy because it's the same thread as the headstock. I also have the hollow live ring centre for doing long hole boring for lamps and the like.

 

[Walter Hall]

I have one of these from RDG tools which I find to be much more accurate that a Jacobs chuck.

 

[Bodrighy]

How is it more accurate? Apart from beng keyless and having a removable morse arbour what is the difference? Cost wise it is the same price, perhaps even a little cheaper.

Pete

 

[Walter Hall]

Sorry to refer you to another forum, but I really can't be doing with uploading the videos again.

Have a look at my video demos using a pen mandrel here:-

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3036

 

[jasonB]

If you want to get an accurate hole consider using a centre drill to start the hole as you would if drilling metal, if you go straight in with a jobber drill the bit may wander, a BS No 2 would do for most things.

If you found the RDG one more accurate than a keyed chuck then you either got lucky or your keyed one was poor. Like everything you get what you pay fore you can pay upto a couple of hundred for a 1/2" chuck, for accurate work (metal) I use a mid range Rohm about £70.

Also if when buying the arbour make sure you get one with a tang and not threaded for a draw bar otherwise you won't get it out of the tailstock

Jason

 

[Walter Hall]

Hi Jason

I know the engineers out there would consider RDG to be at the lower end of the market, but it seems to me that equipment designed for engineers and metalworkers is always a bit more well engineered than the kit designed for wood turning since they generally work to finer tolerances. OK so this isn't a Rohm chuck but it didn't cost me a great deal either.

I have no doubt a decent keyed chuck would be just as good, and you are right about mine, they are getting on a bit and probably past their best.

Regards

Walter

 

[Walter Hall]

Also if when buying the arbour make sure you get one with a tang and not threaded for a draw bar otherwise you won't get it out of the tailstock

Jason

Hi Jason, just re-read your post, can you explain why this is please? I do not understand why a threaded arbour would be any more difficult to remove.

Thanks

Walter