Tablesaw mobile base design

[Ttrees]

Hello folks
I thought I'd get back to you with an update on my mobile base.
Having not used my saw in sometime due to space restraints and the fact that the saw
was not easy to move due to it choosing a seemingly random directions , and another issue with the leveling feet needing to be retracted to move, as not to scratch the floor,
(I chose small 55mm swivel casters for minimal swing, as one of the wheels is inside the cabinet)
I have some photos of this on this thread, with a few errors along the way which needed a rethink
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/table-saw-project.104016/#post-1133741
In yet another attempt to make the best mobile base I could, for a machine like my Startrite, I decided something had to be done about this, now I've cleared up some space in the workshop.

I was going to suggest that someone could improve my design, and make the long arm out of rectangular box metal which would be stout enough for an additional beam at the side of the saw, so the pedal would be at the front of the machine.
I spring latch might be a bit tidier also, although the plate does a fine job the way it is now,

I was sure I would be able to fix the issues I was having, with this pain in the ar5e of a yolk.
You might be able to see some light under the wheels on the right hand side.

I tried shimming the wheels with a pipe offcut if you can make it out, this emphasized the problems further... (tried doing so on one side only after this photo)

The axle underneath the saw was too close to the centerline of the saw, and when the caster was at full swing was causing the weight to shift, making it difficult to change a certain direction.
Some photos of the progress...

Them Bahco blades are good!

Wee 40 pound cheapie Lidl welder done a grand job

Found some angle iron to lengthen the long arm

Fitted the axle as close as possible this time round.
You might make out the 20mm risers to gain clearance for the feet.

Got the levels right to figure out the height for the other set of risers.

Thought all was sound with no sign of the machine being out of kilter, and the machine being way easier to change direction, and wasn't choosing different directions....
SO, went round to the front and leaned a bit, and the dang problems still there!

Its now a case of the wheel not being close enough to the front!
It cannot go any closer unfortunately as the caster is right up against the cabinet.
Well I say it can't, but anythings possible, 'tis only a biscuit tin base, and some space could be cut out of it, but TBH it seems like its good enough, I will push it from the front left as not to let that happen, and the feet dig in the ground.
I don't think that has actually happened yet, as its clear that two layers of ply is better than one for the design, so those allthread feet retracted, could be a bit on the long side now, (well on this floor anyways)

I haven't seen if the issue exists whilst wheeling it around with the sliding table in action, but I wouldn't be doing that anyway.
It would be the ultimate test, but one could always have some ballast on the other side of the fence.
I might just stack a load of timber on the rest of the base, and save some space whilst I'm at it.
Hopefully that might just do the trick

So much for making it perfect, at least I got that over with now, and not pondering fixing it anymore.
Will have to see how it goes I suppose
All the best

Tom

 

[Ttrees]

Another thought would be to bolt another wee caster that might stop the saw from over-tilting, I think I might have just the one for the job.
Might see if its doable if it proves to be a pain.
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

Back again for another round of this malarkey
Upon reflection, it was still a pain in the rear end, and the saw was still choosing directions by its own accord, this does not go down well in my slightly cramped workshop.
As well as the direction thing, the see sawing problem meant the saw would not sit level to accept the plywood blocks I glued up,
Yes, I could have skimmed them down a bit, but that would mean constant adjustment of the feet.

I also had a try to see if a wee caster would fit underneath, but it was too tall... besides, that was a bit of a defeatist attitude to be thinking about, as the game wasn't up yet!

Drew a line around the saw to see how far I could bring that caster out,
I was thinking I could get away with just shimming the saw up with thicker bit of plywood, if the sheet base happened to be rubbing off the wheel, so took a bit more of a scoop off the angle iron, compared to the other side.

After which I cut off the bracket and moved it as far as I could to the front of the base.
If this wasn't enough, I could always weld a bit extra onto the wheel bracket and file a bit more of a scoop out.

Ready to test it again to see

Success! after a quick waltz, it doesn't keel over to one side, nor does it change direction on its own accord, and I can fit the blocks underneath.

I know by the feel of it now, that I am on the absolute brink of the issues I had, by the feel of it turning, it might drop a mil or two if trying to push it down, but it picks back up, it might have a tendency to be a bit stubborn, but then again that happens with swivel casters, but that wheel is defiantly the one which takes the weight and is stubborn.

Here is a shot of it now, (that sheet metal cabinet was like that when I got it)
Hopefully this is the last hurdle.
I might try and get some good rubber wheels for it, if one can buy them instead of buying complete casters.

Might even think about having the pedal and latch at the front sometime.
I'll need some box metal for that though.
Should do the job for now.

Thanks for looking
Tom

 

[clogs]

rubber tyred casters will eventually break up......go for Nylon etc......esp with that weight.....
most of my machines are on a frame so they can be moved with a pallet truck.....
repaired my casters by buying some 4" Nylon round bar to make new wheels...my casters were perfect but the tyres split n fell off....
made of rubber cheese I fear....
also, even when new the casters I take to bits and use proper grease, often there only the slightest amout of oil......

 

[clogs]

found these on the net, probably to late for u.....?
seems the rear wheels can be lowered by a foot operated button....

 

[clogs]

oops...the rear wheel plunger may be a brake.....??

 

[Ttrees]

Interesting designs Clogs
I will consider nylon wheels, this floor is very soft though.

I have quite an interest in all kinds of bases, here's one that is a good design for a small bandsaw, but maybe could do with a better lever that has a spring...
I just used a bit of stainless for the job.
If the better solution seems to complicate matters, and your on a slope, then the
simpler solution might be a good choice.
The big wheels on this one make it very handy on a bad floor,
That wee saw aint gonna need any outfeed, so no point in making feet for it.

This last design, what you could or might call the Carl Holmgren, and thankfully not the "Reliant" anymore is what intrigues me.
I think I may have seen the something similar with a 20" or larger bandsaw on the Auzzie woodworking forums, unfortunately I can't find the page again.

That would sure beat four of the individual ones
that get stuck, can damage your boots, and take longer

On my tablesaw I wanted no obtrusions, as it might have hindered the use of the paddle switch, and this is one machine that I take seriously,
I'm not that fond of using it TBH.

I am going to make up something with a single lever for my benches, not anytime soon, just sorting out some issues with this design first,
and happy to have come away with food for thought.

It will be a challenge designing something similar that will work for the benches, as in lifting it with one lever.
I want to be able to sweep the floor underneath and not be able to see it, so can't copy the same designs as the wee saw and the TS.

It will take some head scratching .
Cheers
Tom

 

[Ttrees]

I made a video on this not so long ago, and thought it might be worth posting here.
Sorry about me manky jumper, not quite up to the standards you'd expect on youtube


Some waffling in the description of how it might be improved upon.
Kind of difficult to describe without seeing the niggles.
Would love to see someone with more brains than myself, make some improvements on the hidden caster idea.


Tom