Table saw - Thinish rips

[Job and Knock]

The first technique was to pass the workpiece through the blade until the final inch or so, then turn the saw off and withdraw the workpiece. So the uncut couple of inches becomes a sacrificial element. I often do this, but I was unsure if the video was saying this is good practise or bad practise! Anyone any thoughts?

It's actually one way to avoid the tendency of narrrow strips to be shot back at the operator, so if you're having problems with that happening it's a workable solution.

Seems pointless to me - you have the risk of the whole workpiece being flung back rather than just the off-cut and it'd be bloody tedious if you were doing a lot of repeat cuts. Simpler to have the fence short enough to allow the off-cut to go free soon after it has been cut.

No you don't have the risk of it being flung back, Jacob, providing if the crown guard is just above the material (where we both know it should be) and the push stick is held behind the material until it the blade down, acting as a back stop. And yes, bloody tedious, so personally I'd either push past the back of the blade with a long sacrificial pusher (my hand at all times being well behind the blade and never at the side) and/or shorten the position of the rip fence to reduce the tendency for the material to fall against the fence. But most of the time I don't run the rip fence far past the front of the saw because it can lead to binding. This strip ripping task is one I undertake on site saws regularly and I tend to use the long pusher approach - with MDF being the usual candidate material for the pusher because it will get mauled

 

[blackrodd]

I don't know german but confused by Suva's suggestion to rise blade all up during rip cut ( 4th video 0:45 onwards) . Up to now what i believe blade should be half tooth above the wood for both clean cut and to avoid kick back ?

No, it's only really to give you a clean cut. On a traditional large rip saw (i.e 24 to 36in blade) the blade was always run high.

The nearer the teeth are to horizontal when they enter the material the greater the tendency to push the work back towards you. Hence the advice (HSE, C&G, etc) to have the crown guard properly positioned, not to have your hands in line with the saw and to stand to one side

Just checked Bosch user manual, it suggests setting top of blade 5mm above wood. In addition to clean cut, i think this helps against binding and other type of kickback ( back teeth graps the wood, rises to the top of blade and throws like frisby) With this blade position last cutting tip will be on the center of blade always, so short fence should be inline with center of blade. Up to now can't understand why short fences position should be changed, your message solved the question.

Regarding the original question, below is the narrow strip cut jig which i used few times, with a push stick and push block. Felders fence looks like a factory made version of this.

I certainly would NOT use a silly jig, as the one above.
By using this You have interfered with the crucial distance between the riving knife and saw blade, for starters.
And what on earth happens to the strip just cut, and free!
I, with others here have been using this machinery for years, and no accidents , so far, so I do have some experiance.
Please, before being led on good old u tube to make any more silly, dangerous jigs read the HSE LEAFLETS,
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf They are well written, and a safety must, unless, of course you
should have a few fingers to spare!
The correct way to use ALL wood work machinery is on here, please read all of it and digest
I have to say that I was expecting a right load of old cobblers under a HSE banner, but have to say this was
well written by some experienced people who Do know how many fingers make five.
And lastly (for a while) please stop trying to saw piddly little bits wood as much as is possible, 600 mm to -900 mm
is the accepted minimum.
Regards Rodders

 

[custard]

And lastly (for a while) please stop trying to saw piddly little bits wood as much as is possible, 600 mm to -900 mm
is the accepted minimum.

What's the difference between ripping a 500mm length and ripping the last 500mm of a 1000mm length? The HSE leaflet you recommend doesn't regard 600mm as the minimum length, it says "A push-stick should always be used when making any cut less than 300 mm in length".