TAble saw taper

[GrahamIreland]

Morning all, how is it best to go about doing tapered legs on the table saw? I've forgotten.

I have some plywood, and I have a circular saw, but would prefer to use the table saw set up if possible.

Thanks

 

[NickM]

Tapering jigs are pretty easy to make. I put this one together for the desk I'm making.

It has a hinge on the end. You put the work piece on the angled side, backed up against the rear stop and run the jig and work piece through the saw with the other side of the jig up against the fence.

There are lots of you tube videos on how to do this.

 

[NickM]

I did make one small modification before I used it, which was to move the stop onto the end of the jig with screws running in from the back into the end grain of the jig. It wouldn't have been a problem with the legs I was making, but the stop is somewhat sacrificial and you wouldn't want to cut through the screws...

 

[Mike Jordan]

The photo is of a template used to cut staircase wedges with a circular saw. You could use your plywood to make a template for tapering the legs. It will be possible to cut two faces of each leg before taping the off cut material back in place to cut the second two faces, assuming you are tapering all four sides. I hope that is clearer than it sounds. Tapering on a planing machine is easier to do. Incidentally the band saw is only to make the photo clearer.

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

I know it's not quite what you're asking for, but having tried tapers on table saws, planers etc. I have long ago settled on just cutting them on the band saw and finishing with a hand plane. Just draw the taper lines in pencil and cut away from the line then plane to the line. No jigs no fuss and very little risk of ruining the work.

 

[GrahamIreland]

Yes thanks all, was thinking it was a jig alright for the table saw, but couldn't quite remember which side it runs on..

One question though, is there not tension on the piece as it runs through, will it not bind up at some point.

Maybe the circular saw might just work for me

I'd def do the band saw if I had one.

Graham

 

[Paddy Roxburgh]

The jig moves along with the piece, so you are cutting a straight line parallel to the fence, just with the workpiece held at an angle so there's no tension or binding.

 

[Inspector]

Taper jigs don't need to be run against a fence. You can also make a long sled with a wooden runner that fits in one of the mitre slots. A clamping arrangement on top to hold the victim (your project ) down as you cut it, can be as simple as a block for a stop by your tummy and another one or two further away to the angle you like and a push stick (to hold it down). Or you can make one with adjustments and various toggle clamps to do any thing for as long as you are enjoying woodworking. It can also serve to cut a waney edge off to straighten a board, defying the natural edge crowd. The only downside to one is a loss of depth of cut by the thickness of the sled but you don't need to use 3/4", 1/2" or 3/8" will do so the loss is minimal.

Pete