wow. i can actually help on this one!
There are 2 issues- the cause and the replacement of the roll pin.
First, to get to the roll pin, you need to remove the handwheel and the pin that it grips on to, and the orange wheel that goes into the part that allows you to adjust the angle of the blade.
You next need to remove the part that the orange wheel connects with- the black toothy grin part on the cabinet. It is held with 8 m5 button head cap screws and nuts. These were tight on mine, and you need to get a socket on the nut to stop it spinning. If you need some replacements, i have a bag of socket cap screws and nuts- let me know. This allows just enough access to get the part out. My saw is shown without that part on.
Inside the saw, there is a grub screw holding that handle shaft in place- you may need to remove the cabinet access panels on the saw, and play with different cutting angles to get the allen key onto it. You may have to also loosen the 2 nuts around that area that hold on the casting- I cant remember because I hadnt worked out this method until i had snapped a couple of pins. To solve the cause you need to remove these at some point, but easier if left in for now. wiggle the part that you are trying to remove about a bit and it should come out- more than likely the shaft and cog as 2 pieces. You could try to fit another pin and try again, but the problem will probably reccur. You only need to pip the part back in, nip up the grub screw and fit a roll pin for the black handle to test it.
The cause is probably it all being bunged up, and probably by where the leadscrew goes through an aluminum casting near the top. I cleaned every other part of mine before stripping fully and the problem remained.
To get the lead screw out, you need to undo the 2 nuts from the bottom green support bracket
onto the casting that held the cog you have just removed
. Ratchet spanners are handy here, in fact anything other than an adjustable spanner. You need to remove the bolt at the far end that goes through the semi circular angle track (non handle end)
, and slacken off the 2 grub screws at the top of the far end of the saw motor
. Finally, there are a couple of levers that lock things on the front- remove these. Keep the male threaded one handy (orange)- when you put the motor back on, it is useful to hold the weight of it. If I have remembered everything, you can get the motor and carriage out, leaving the support bracket in place. Work out how it all moves- it is tight, awkward and heavy but not difficult. Find somewhere to prop it, inside the cabinet. The motor lead on mine was short! Remove the two bolts on the bottom of the casting holding the cog previously removed. You can not take a rag, wrap around the cog and unscrew the lead screw. It is probably tight, which is the problem. Clean everything down, spray with dry lubricant and reassemble. You need a set of spanners, sockets may do. An adjustable spanner will be too big DAMHIKT!
Reassembly is much the reverse. the adjustment side needs putting in and then wiggling just enough to get the far side in. again, tight, heavy awkward but not difficult. Be ready to screw in the orange lever to hold it. The far side- do not nip the grub screws up tight or it locks it solid! Test it up and down before putting everything back on. Put the motor back in, and the put the handle shaft and cog in- gives you much more room.
Having done it, I would say that it is a 2 hour job to fully sort, although it took me much longer 1st time round.
I havent done so yet, but you will need to make something to make sure that the mitre slots are parallel to the blade. I am expecting to have to remove mine again, so havent fixed it down (saw not being used at moment!)
There are 2 issues- the cause and the replacement of the roll pin.
First, to get to the roll pin, you need to remove the handwheel and the pin that it grips on to, and the orange wheel that goes into the part that allows you to adjust the angle of the blade.
Inside the saw, there is a grub screw holding that handle shaft in place- you may need to remove the cabinet access panels on the saw, and play with different cutting angles to get the allen key onto it. You may have to also loosen the 2 nuts around that area that hold on the casting- I cant remember because I hadnt worked out this method until i had snapped a couple of pins. To solve the cause you need to remove these at some point, but easier if left in for now. wiggle the part that you are trying to remove about a bit and it should come out- more than likely the shaft and cog as 2 pieces. You could try to fit another pin and try again, but the problem will probably reccur. You only need to pip the part back in, nip up the grub screw and fit a roll pin for the black handle to test it.
The cause is probably it all being bunged up, and probably by where the leadscrew goes through an aluminum casting near the top. I cleaned every other part of mine before stripping fully and the problem remained.
Reassembly is much the reverse. the adjustment side needs putting in and then wiggling just enough to get the far side in. again, tight, heavy awkward but not difficult. Be ready to screw in the orange lever to hold it. The far side- do not nip the grub screws up tight or it locks it solid! Test it up and down before putting everything back on. Put the motor back in, and the put the handle shaft and cog in- gives you much more room.
Having done it, I would say that it is a 2 hour job to fully sort, although it took me much longer 1st time round.
I havent done so yet, but you will need to make something to make sure that the mitre slots are parallel to the blade. I am expecting to have to remove mine again, so havent fixed it down (saw not being used at moment!)
