Table Saw Problem

[kmcleod]

Hi Guys...

OK,,,I own a Bosch GTS10 Tablesaw,,,,,great machine,,,does all the cutting I need,,,and probably more,,but not gotten there yet...

So yesterday while cleaning up and dismantling the workshop (its also a garage), I decided that taking the blade out of the saw to give it and the saw a good clean would be worthwhile maintenance,,,,

Only one small problem - the nut holding the blade into the shaft wont budge....it is solid,,so much so that the nut itself was giving way,,,I've tried spraying some WD40 onto the nut and shaft, and no success...

Anyone got any ideas....other than a major strip down, split the nut and replace ???

 

[Karl]

Try getting a slotted long handled screwdriver (or similair) in there, rest it on the nut and give it a few taps with a hammer. Don't whack it with a lump hammer though....

May help to release the nut.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Mcluma]

Just wait a second, i have the full instruction manual and parts list here somewhere

Let me find that first

 

[paulm]

Left hand thread ? Try turning in the opposite direction.

Cheers, Paul.

 

[tombo]

you do know its a left handed thread :roll:

 

[old1]

You do know that it is a left hand thread :?:

 

[paulm]

Been there, done that, saw tables, drill chucks etc, only way to learn :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cheers, Paul.

 

[Gower]

My GTS10 is definitely left hand thread. Had the saw for 4 years and it's everything I want from a saw (for the moment).

Cheers,
Gower

 

[kmcleod]

Thanks to all who pointed out that its a left hand thread,,,,but had alreadt worked out that,,,,

plus had actually applied RTFM (read the flaming manual), becuase I wasn't sure,,,,,

and the damn thing is still stuck,,,,

:x :x :x :x

 

[Racers]

Hi,

WD40 stands for Water Displacement and its the 40th formula, its not penetrating oil. Have you tried tightening it, it can often work and get a 6 point socket on it to stop the nut getting chewed up. You gan try heating up the little swine that will also help (wipe the WD40 off first)


Pete

 

[SeanG]

better surface area contact on the nut and a longer lever.

I've seen it happen a few times working on the car, a nut will be solid, so I try pushing really hard with the spanner (perhaps give it a few taps with the hammer) - result - it looks like the spanner is just cutting a grove in the nut. Switch to a socket with a very long handled bar (mine is just under a metre) and the nut starts with little problem (sometimes it creaks a bit just to scare me).

It's all about the moment.

If you don't have a socket and bar, perhaps you could extent the spanner by sliding a bar over it, using a ring spanner would give better surface area contact on the nut. An adjustable spanner would be a bad idea - they tend to be much more prone to chewing up a tight nut.

hope this helps.

 

[dicktimber]

I know this will not go down well, and safety precautions need to be taken but...
If you determin which way you should turn the nut..left or right hand.....
then prior to this put some heat on the area arrd the nut with a gas blow lamp, then get the spanner on and see if that releases it.

Mike

 

[Digit]

If all else fails, and you have a disc grinder, grind one flat down till it just touches the thread. That'll move it!

Roy.

 

[DavidE]

Thanks to all who pointed out that its a left hand thread,,,,but had alreadt worked out that,,,,

plus had actually applied RTFM (read the flaming manual), becuase I wasn't sure,,,,,

and the damn thing is still stuck,,,,

:x :x :x :x

Hi there,

I have a GTS 10 - and it is definitely not a left hand thread. I know because I changed the blade today. If you're standing looking at the blade the nut on mine is on the right hand side of the blade. That being the case if it was a left hand thread it would undo itself.

When I first tried to change the blade I had the same problem as yourself. I did double check the manual to make sure there wasn't something weird with a left hand thread!

It did move in the end - I took the knife and guard off to get dead square on the blade and it finally moved. I can only think they tighten them well at the factory as I have not had that problem since

HTH
David

 

[Mcluma]

I am also thinking of replacing the blade on my GTS 10

Which blade did you go for??

 

[DavidE]

I am also thinking of replacing the blade on my GTS 10

Which blade did you go for??

Hi there,

Sorry if this question wasn't intended for me...

I have two blades the 40 tooth general purpose one it came with - I use this for ripping (mainly). I also bought a Trend blade which is a fine toothed crosscut blade. It's really good on man-made boards too and the surface finish is superior. I'll have to look how many teeth it is. I would hazard a guess at around 72.

Cheers
David

 

[neilyweely]

not sure if this is poor 'forum etiquette' but I too need a new table saw blade, and wanted advice on a good multi purpose blade (cross, rip, man-made boards etc...) to buy.

Please let me know if I am hijacking someone elses gig,

Thanks folks,

Neil

 

[kmcleod]

Thanks to all - but after leaving it a couple of days - visiting a tool shop and getting a BIG spanner of the right size...30secs and some pressure,,,and the ruddy thing moved....

So go it off,,,check it,,,bit bashed but otherwise OK,,,,I will be ordering a spare from those nice folks at MMTC...

Now as to the thread,,,
As you face the saw the shaft is on the right hand side, and the undo the nut apply pressure towards you,,so to my way of thinking,,,its not a left hand thread as clockwise tightens, anti clockwise loosens,,,

Thanks again for all the suggestions....

 

[Mcluma]

This is where i got my spare stuff for my bosch

The Sales Office
RAI Technical Ltd.
20A Hilton Crescent
West Bridgford
Nottingham NG2 6HT

Tel : 0115 9142725
Fax : 0115 9142925