I have a Startrite 165 and when refurbishing the original fence, I noticed the following in the manual:
“It should be noted that whilst a long fence is useful in guiding sheets, for rip sawing, the fence should finish level with the commencement of the cut.
Therefore, a wooden facing is fitted to the fence … to prevent the timber jamming …”
(pls forgive any typos, I had to transpose by hand).
I don’t have this original wood facing and can’t make sense of the grammar. Should it stop where the cut starts? That would be very short no?
I must admit to watching plenty of US videos where fences are long so had assumed I’d just use a full length wooden face (or building a H style thing to straddle the ORM fence.
The other thing in the mix is that the saw blade is slightly off square to the mitre slots (<1mm to the left at the back of the blade) so was thinking any fence I make should compensate?
Any tips appreciated. I’ve had a good read through similar threads and am most curious about the manuals wording and original size fence.
Cheers
“It should be noted that whilst a long fence is useful in guiding sheets, for rip sawing, the fence should finish level with the commencement of the cut.
Therefore, a wooden facing is fitted to the fence … to prevent the timber jamming …”
(pls forgive any typos, I had to transpose by hand).
I don’t have this original wood facing and can’t make sense of the grammar. Should it stop where the cut starts? That would be very short no?
I must admit to watching plenty of US videos where fences are long so had assumed I’d just use a full length wooden face (or building a H style thing to straddle the ORM fence.
The other thing in the mix is that the saw blade is slightly off square to the mitre slots (<1mm to the left at the back of the blade) so was thinking any fence I make should compensate?
Any tips appreciated. I’ve had a good read through similar threads and am most curious about the manuals wording and original size fence.
Cheers