Table saw advice

[ColinP]

Thanks, I'd discounted the TS250 as it will only cur 200mm without the table extension which makes it only 30mm smaller than the Itech 01332 or the AW10BSB with the extension tables, although quite a bit lighter. Are the tables on the TS250 an easy replace and remove, as in I could put them on and take them off as needed?

A good option might be the Scheppach Precisa 3.0 (Kity) without the slider, but with the right extension table. I saw this one at the Harrogate show recently. The right side table folds easily, and with it sitting on a rolling machine base you could easily move it out and flip up the extension table.

Other features are micro adjust fence (which works really well) + induction motor and cast iron table.

It is pricey, but I have seen it for around £1k without the sliding table.




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I haven't seen the Sheppach without the sliding table, anyone got a link to one, I spent ages looking earlier but I couldn't find one. Kitty, they made fair machines didn't they, I had a small bandsaw of theirs at home years ago, I quite liked it if I remember

 

[Bodgers]

Thanks, I'd discounted the TS250 as it will only cur 200mm without the table extension which makes it only 30mm smaller than the Itech 01332 or the AW10BSB with the extension tables, although quite a bit lighter. Are the tables on the TS250 an easy replace and remove, as in I could put them on and take them off as needed?

A good option might be the Scheppach Precisa 3.0 (Kity) without the slider, but with the right extension table. I saw this one at the Harrogate show recently. The right side table folds easily, and with it sitting on a rolling machine base you could easily move it out and flip up the extension table.

Other features are micro adjust fence (which works really well) + induction motor and cast iron table.

It is pricey, but I have seen it for around £1k without the sliding table.




Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

I haven't seen the Sheppach without the sliding table, anyone got a link to one, I spent ages looking earlier but I couldn't find one. Kitty, they made fair machines didn't they, I had a small bandsaw of theirs at home years ago, I quite liked it if I remember

At the moment pretty much everywhere in the UK has it as the complete kit. The Scheppach site does have it listed as a stand alone product though, and I have seen it before for sale like that.

https://www.scheppach.com/product-detai ... 2600W.aspx

Item number stand alone is 1901302901
Ext table: 1901302702

It is basically a Kity 619 revision (it even has the Kity logo on the front).

This is a video of using it in a small workspace:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKNdEs9l2E4

 

[pike]

I've just bought the TS-250M-2 with no extension or slider. I'm thinking I can pick either up later if I find a need, but I've got a track saw and a band saw so this is only really for narrow rips and some crosscutting for which I'm going to try a diy sled.

 

[Bodgers]

Would be interested to see your opinions on the mark 2, specifically the fence.

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[pike]

Will report back once I have a chance to play with it Bodgers.

I may well be ordering the right hand extension just for the apparent fence improvements, if I don't get on with the basic one.

My previous table saw was a Triton workcentre which I think had a really quite solid fence. I had to actually deliberately set the far end a very very slight bit wider for safety!

 

[pike]

Might as well stay on this thread incase Colin is still considering saws.

Bodgers: Initial impressions, for what they are worth! is that the fence will do me fine. It's a sort of cam lock which I suspect won't leave holes in the fence. Also I might be being stupid as I haven't owned a tablesaw for years but it strikes me that provided you don't need full support (or just make a little side extension) the fence goes up past 300mm so surely could cut that much not just the stated 200mm?

Fence extended out to 300mm

Locking mechanism for fence.

The fence was easy to align to the slots. The saw however is just under 1mm out which looks like it'll be a more fiddly thing to fix as you have to adjust underneath from what I can tell.

One other thought. I've always said I'd get induction next time as my previous saw was brushed and stupidly noisy. However, turning this on it's like a quite loud hoover with high pitched whistle which means I need ear protectors. Slightly surprised at that but it's not bad. Maybe I've forgotten how loud a non induction is. When the extractor is also running it's no big deal. I imagined it was going to be almost silent.


Cheers,
Carl.

 

[MikeJhn]

Carl

If you take out the blade inserts you are able to access a couple of the bolts that secures the motor and blade, I found it was only one bolt that I needed to undo then leaver the saw over from above to adjust the true running of the blade to the mitre gauge, but then as I have the sliding table I would not be using the mitre gauge itself so it was not so important to line it all up, but I did get it done in that manner.

Mike

 

[pike]

Thanks Mike,

I thought I might need to have access from underneath and haven't got a stand built for it yet. Either way I'll get it done.

Thanks for your help, I feel like you should buy a tool I've got, instead of me keep getting things you have. Festool dominos and tracksaws are great, I can highly recommend them ;-)

Cheers,
Carl.

 

[ColinP]

Definitely still stressing over this choice. I'm really starting to think a full size cabinet saw is 100% out of the question, just too big physically for the space I have without compromising bench working space and that's something I won't do, I hate being cramped while working, I'm not in control of what I'm doing. So I'm will have to look at the smaller site type saws.

How much room to the left of the TS-250M-2 (I am right in thinking the blades tilts to the left?). This I think will be the crux for me as I have a vee cut in 200mm wide stock that must be cut with the wood horizontal that I cut on a regular basis.

The others on the shortlist are the Bosch GTS 10XC and the Dewalt 7491 (one of these has mysteriously arrived in the loading bay of the place I work so I'll have a good look at it tomorrow afternoon when everyone has gone home

 

[MikeJhn]

To me it does not matter if the blade tilts left or right, just put the fence on the other side of the blade?

Mike

 

[ColinP]

But how much room is there, the fence seems to be restricted to the left

 

[pike]

I'm not sure what you're asking Colin sorry.

You can move the fence rail left and right too. You have to take the yellow bit of insert out for angled cuts and yes it angles towards the left.

I haven't tried putting the fence that side. There's about 10 inches of table left of the blade and 7 to the right, but I plan on adding mini diy extensions or just sit it in a recessed ply stand.

Have to say I thought this basic saw would be quite small and insignificant but it's not. Anything bigger would dominate my 6m x 3m shed. It'd still take two to lift it safely.

You probably know this but the other two saws you mentioned are noisy site saws. I'd have bought a DW745 if noise wasn't an issue.

General pic during putting things together. Before I put the guard on.

 

[ColinP]

There seems to be this large piece of the fence guide to the left hand side, more so than the right. With the fence to its left most position what is the maximum width of cut as standard?

 

[pike]

Ah right. I'm not sure. I would guess there's quite a lot of adjustment you can make to get max width on that side (like move the whole rail for starters) but I haven't tried and have only had it a few hours so wouldn't want to say.

Will let you know if and when I get time to check, unless someone else can help.

 

[ColinP]

Brilliant, many thanks to you pike

 

[MikeJhn]

The rail for the fence is a T track, so the fence can be slid along some distance and give as much room left as it can right, to answer a previous question the blade does tilt left, towards the yellow side of the insert, but as Carl said the yellow piece has to be taken out to tilt the blade.

Mike

 

[Bodgers]

Might as well stay on this thread incase Colin is still considering saws.

Bodgers: Initial impressions, for what they are worth! is that the fence will do me fine. It's a sort of cam lock which I suspect won't leave holes in the fence. Also I might be being stupid as I haven't owned a tablesaw for years but it strikes me that provided you don't need full support (or just make a little side extension) the fence goes up past 300mm so surely could cut that much not just the stated 200mm?

Fence extended out to 300mm


Locking mechanism for fence.


The fence was easy to align to the slots. The saw however is just under 1mm out which looks like it'll be a more fiddly thing to fix as you have to adjust underneath from what I can tell.

One other thought. I've always said I'd get induction next time as my previous saw was brushed and stupidly noisy. However, turning this on it's like a quite loud hoover with high pitched whistle which means I need ear protectors. Slightly surprised at that but it's not bad. Maybe I've forgotten how loud a non induction is. When the extractor is also running it's no big deal. I imagined it was going to be almost silent.


Cheers,
Carl.

The Cam lock with the spring steel looks better than the old screw mech - a simple improvement that probably didn't cost much to do and will make a big difference.

What's interesting about the fence itself is that it looks better and worse at the same time - the sliding face looks genuinely useful as using a mitre gauge it looks like you could pull that back and use it as a stop block. But....no t-slots in it - which the old one has on three faces which limits jig options I suppose.

I think with the extra 100mm unsupported capacity is probably just intended to be used for wider stuff that can be partially supported on the left. If I was you I'd just buy the extension table and the rails and cut a piece of ply to replace the pressed steel table if you are thinking of doing anything wider.

Yep, saws with induction motors are so much nicer to use, I think at this price range (for at least the TS200 anyway) it is a no-brainer, for me the cheap site saws just don't compare at all.

 

[Bodgers]

Definitely still stressing over this choice. I'm really starting to think a full size cabinet saw is 100% out of the question, just too big physically for the space I have without compromising bench working space and that's something I won't do, I hate being cramped while working, I'm not in control of what I'm doing. So I'm will have to look at the smaller site type saws.

How much room to the left of the TS-250M-2 (I am right in thinking the blades tilts to the left?). This I think will be the crux for me as I have a vee cut in 200mm wide stock that must be cut with the wood horizontal that I cut on a regular basis.

The others on the shortlist are the Bosch GTS 10XC and the Dewalt 7491 (one of these has mysteriously arrived in the loading bay of the place I work so I'll have a good look at it tomorrow afternoon when everyone has gone home

Easily enough room for that, even my TS200 can cope with that.

Both have the extension table option as well, which massively expands right side capacity.

 

[pike]

I think with the extra 100mm unsupported capacity is probably just intended to be used for wider stuff that can be partially supported on the left. If I was you I'd just buy the extension table and the rails and cut a piece of ply to replace the pressed steel table if you are thinking of doing anything wider.

Yep, saws with induction motors are so much nicer to use, I think at this price range (for at least the TS200 anyway) it is a no-brainer, for me the cheap site saws just don't compare at all.

Yeah if I needed significantly more width I'd get the extension, but if this basic model can do 300mm not the stated 200mm (especially if I add a mini extension) it will probably do me fine and save me some space.

The DW745 has a great rack and pinion fence and is very portable. For me it's only the noise that puts me off. Although you could argue other things like the table.

 

[MikeJhn]

Pike

The fence rails are supposed to be fitting flush to the end of the table on the left according to the manual to allow the sliding table to pass and if present to line up with the end of the extension table with the long fence supports, but obviously can be positioned where you like or indeed where is most convenient for your work, but having the facility to position it in various positions does give it some flexibility for differing widths and side extensions.

Mike