Surface flattening router bits

[Jeremy Nako]

In the absence of space for a drum sander I'm looking at building a small router sled to surface end grain cutting boards.

I've been looking at the various router bit options, and it's a little perplexing.

I currently have a cheapy Trend 1/4" shank router which I'm happy to upgrade to a more beefy 1/2" shank router.

So.. two questions..

Firstly, any recommendations for a beefy 1/2" shank router.. ? Non professional, but hopefully regularish use. The Triton TRA001 seems very popular on Youtube.

Secondly.. the router bit. There are loads on the market ranging from £30 to £180, with CMT producing a 100mm diameter cutter.

Is bigger, better (if price wasn't an issue) or does it come with its own problems..? I don't see myself wanting to surface anything much bigger than cutting boards for the foreseeable future.

Any help much appreciated.

 

[Rorton]

I use the MOF001 and a 2" surfacing bit from Wealdon tools:

pics of my process here

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...ith-food-safe-mineral-oil-and-beeswax.125418/

 

[Rorton]

this was the bit:

https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Surface-Trim.html

 

[TheTiddles]

100mm cutter with a free-hand router is a level of bravery few have!

I am about to do a similar thing and will be going for a Wealden bit in a 1/4” router as I can’t be faffed taking the 1/2” out the table

Aidan

 

[Droogs]

I am a Triton fan and would say either the MOF or TRA will be perfect for you. just depends if you intend to use the router freehand later on if so the MOF is easier and less tiring to use but the TRA more powerfull and best put in a table afterwards. they both have the facility to have 6 or 8mm colletts and 1/4" or 1/2" colletts fitted to them and are interchangeable.
edit - brainfart

 

[Jeremy Nako]

100mm cutter with a free-hand router is a level of bravery few have!

I am about to do a similar thing and will be going for a Wealden bit in a 1/4” router as I can’t be faffed taking the 1/2” out the table

Aidan

Its not really free-hand as it'll be in a router sled, but that's why I was asking about potential issues.

 

[Jeremy Nako]

I use the MOF001 and a 2" surfacing bit from Wealdon tools:

pics of my process here

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...ith-food-safe-mineral-oil-and-beeswax.125418/

Excellent - thank you.

 

[TheTiddles]

Its not really free-hand as it'll be in a router sled, but that's why I was asking about potential issues.

I’d call that free-hand, unless your sled is on rails and can’t move in any direction with your hands off it, even a 20mm cutter can grab the router. Not sure I’d use a cutter that size in a table without a power feeder either, but others might.
Aidan

 

[julianf]

A whole back I linked to some bits on Amazon. I try not to mention Amazon much, so if you search my username for the word, then the link will be easy enough to find.

They're much cheaper than the usual offerings. Good for flattening rough sawn where there may still be inclusions etc.

 

[Roland]

+1 for the Wealdon surface bit.

 

[ClarkeHome]

I'm using an Erbauer 1/2" shank plunge router - which I normally use for kitchen worktops with a 50mm surface mill and a collet extension.
My sled is based on 4040 aluminium extrusion.

The issues I've found are that the router head will rock side to side on its plunge sliders slightly and getting the router shaft perpendicular to the work piece in X and Y axes is critical. Also using a collet extension makes the shaft longer and I noticed that under load the router bit shaft will bend slightly.

With a larger diameter surface mill, you'll find that any misalignment will be exacerbated meaning you'll get a saw tooth surface.

....if you find a way to lock the router on the carriage and use a kitchen worktop router bit, you've got yourself a jointer!