super glue.....

[clogs]

never had a lot of luck with the stuff except the gel variety.....
been trawling u tooooob and seen people assembling wooden pots n bowls with the liquid sort.....
basically they assemble the item dry then squirt the glue at the joint.....obv everything needs to be flat....
Is it really that good...?.

I'll just stick with the PVA's..... just asking....anyone outthere does it....?

 

[baldkev]

On site we use mitre mate. Its basically superglue with a spray that speeds up the reaction.... you spray one piece of the joint, apply glue to the other, press together and ten seconds later your fingers are stuck to the wood

 

[mikej460]

+1 for the mitre mate or mitre bond or even Screwfix No Nonsense Mitre spray. You can use the spray on any superglue

 

[okeydokey]

Ive used mitre mate for the purposes as described in the attached and very good it is - maybe ok if not stressed or regularly handled for other tasks
PVA (or crystal araldite) might suit you better.
https://www.constructionchemicals.c...m fitters as well as shopfitting contractors.

 

[D_W]

never had a lot of luck with the stuff except the gel variety.....
been trawling u tooooob and seen people assembling wooden pots n bowls with the liquid sort.....
basically they assemble the item dry then squirt the glue at the joint.....obv everything needs to be flat....
Is it really that good...?.

I'll just stick with the PVA's..... just asking....anyone outthere does it....?

Yes on the really thin stuff - it penetrates and flows too freely (like thinner than water feeling) to get stuck in a joint with any gap. So dribbling it into a joint that's already together probably works well.

Biggest problem with CA is it either dries really fast and doesn't fill space well, or it fills space well (and continues to move a little...keep an eye on it) and dries less fast.

Use activator.

Another fun thing to try is filing a gap with baking soda and then dribble thin CA on the baking soda. Makes a very hard plastic like substance seemingly harder than the glue really really fast. This is a typical fix for guitar nuts where the nut slot gets too large or too low. Basically fill it with baking soda and then add glue and you have a very hard "blank" that you can recut the slot in.

I haven't ever looked to see if it's true, but I think the baking soda makes it dry faster due to some kind of reaction.

 

[Sideways]

One way to think of superglue (cyanoacrylate) is that it's like acrylic plastic in a bottle. It sets clear and hard like acrylic. To me this means it's probably kind of brittle like acrylic is, but won't creep like PVA and won't be softened by water like PVA. To be honest, the thing that most impresses me about superglue is how well it sticks broken handles back on mugs ! The repairs last a good while considering.

 

[Thingybob]

We used to use it to glue up o rings for pnumatic cylinders till we noticed it left scratch marks up the inside walls of the cylinder and that was a kit you could buy from engineers suppliers

 

[eribaMotters]

Off at a tangent. Store your tube of Superglue in the fridge and take it out 10 minutes before you use it. It lasts for ages, oh and you always know where to find it.

Colin

 

[D_W]

Off at a tangent. Store your tube of Superglue in the fridge and take it out 10 minutes before you use it. It lasts for ages, oh and you always know where to find it.

Colin

here's another follow up tip to that - flew airplanes as a kid, which was the only place back then to justify the cost of the glues. They've stayed nominally about the same for 30 years, which is nice.

I stored mine in the freezer at home.

spouse says no now, so I just leave them on the rack.

At some point, they get slow to cure - maybe years. That is, in open air. But they seem OK if activated, so if medium flows slower, use it as thick with activator. thin as medium, medium thin, etc.

I think I have some thick glue that would fill gaps and take hours to dry, but you can gradually let it flow out of the container and activate it and it will still dry hard. but without activator....intolerable.

 

[Chief Sawdust Maker]

I keep all 3 viscosities in the work shop
Thin is great on MDF if you are making a jig and want to harden a hole or a face
Normal is my go to i use it a lot with painters tape and activator for holding things on the bed of my CNC
Thick is good if you need some gap filling or if the surface is slightly pitted or uneven
There is a big difference in the quality depending on the brand after much trial and error I have stuck with the following

Everbuild is my go to for normal
Titebond or Chestnut for both the thick and thin
Bond It activator

 

[Ollie78]

I prefer the screwfix no nonsense version or the industrial one from toolstation for general use. I use loads of it for the "blue tape method" for holding stuff on the CNC machine.

However its not good for filling knot holes and is extremely brittle so no good for sticking flexible stuff.
I have been using the starbond brand after I discovered the black one for filling little knots and stuff, which is brilliant. I use their thick version and the medium flexible one as well.
Also found the Zap stuff to be good.

A quick note on the starbond activator spray, I used it on some fascia trims and it left brown stains but they only appeared the day after !! so always check the activator on an offcut.

Ollie

 

[GuitardoctorW7]

never had a lot of luck with the stuff except the gel variety.....
been trawling u tooooob and seen people assembling wooden pots n bowls with the liquid sort.....
basically they assemble the item dry then squirt the glue at the joint.....obv everything needs to be flat....
Is it really that good...?.

I'll just stick with the PVA's..... just asking....anyone outthere does it....?

I use this stuff as it's great for finish repairs but it is hideously expensive over here. The accelerator they make doesn't froth up the CA too.
https://gluboost.com

 

[Kittyhawk]

One way to think of superglue (cyanoacrylate) is that it's like acrylic plastic in a bottle. It sets clear and hard like acrylic. To me this means it's probably kind of brittle like acrylic is, but won't creep like PVA and won't be softened by water like PVA. To be honest, the thing that most impresses me about superglue is how well it sticks broken handles back on mugs ! The repairs last a good while considering.

So.... would this be a good adhesive for repairing cracks in thin acrylic clear sheet ?
The crack is right through the acrylic but begins and ends in the middle of the sheet, so very tight. Would CA glue wick into it?