This is photo heavy, as it's best that way.
I've now got three casts made, one's hanging on the wall in the shop so I can keep looking at it and see where the work needs to be done.
One is mounted on a board for re-carving. The board is also the base of the new form for the final silicone mould. The last has a section of timber glued to it to form a mock up of the complete piece of walnut I'm going to carve from. I'll attach a piece of carved moulding to that and this forms the sight edge of the picture frame and I can work out the amount of timber I need to order.
To make this moulding I'll be using a selection of wooden side escapement planes and a sticking board.
I start off marking out the central fillet with a tite-mark. I like this marking gauge as it has a fine adjustment wheel on it.
Once this is marked out two grooves are cut either side of the fillet to define it and raise it up from the ovolo on one side and the ogee on the other.
To cut out and raise the fillet is the job of the snipes bill and rebate plane.
Snipes bills come in pairs and save having to turn the section around, as you can work from both directions.
As they only cut on the curved side, the non cutting side can be used up against the fillet.
These work backwards along the section and create a quirk for the edge of the rebate plane to run in.
Like this....
First I cut into the waste side with the rebate plane to preserve the fillet and level level it up square to form the rebates when I'm at depth. It can also be used on its side to clean the edge of the fillet and make it uniform in width.
On the ovolo side I plane off the arris to form a chamfer for the hollow to run on. It needs a track formed by both corners of the chamfer to run on. Most of the waste is removed by a jack plane and preserves the cutting edge of the hollow plane.
Carve out the ovolo. You can plane it if you want, but I like to approach it as if I'm carving with these planes.
And burnish it to a nice finish with some quality shavings.
No sanding is required on these mouldings as the planes give a good finish and we need to preserve the sharp arrises and small fillets that are created.
That side can be done in a vice, but the other side needs a sticking board with nails sticking out of the fence to keep things in place.
The shoulder of the fillet is formed in the same way as the central fillet and the side rebated out to form the toe of the ogee.
As it's a small one, a pair of no.2 H&R planes are used to carve it out.
A small rebate is formed for the round plane to ride in and a chamfer for the hollow. Then it's a matter of just carving with them to form the shape required.
Like so.
Blend them together and give it all a burnish and we're done.
When I come to make the frame, I'll stick and carve the whole moulding in one long length and chop the miters in succession when it's all carved. That way the moulding will match at the miter.
I think that's about it for that bit and working out the carving on the sight edge moulding comes next.
