Studding out garage wall - fixings

[LancsRick]

I'm about to start studding out a garage wall as the beginnings of a conversion to a fully tanked and insulated workshop. It's a single skin brick affair at the moment.

I'm wondering whether I actually need to bother fixing the studwork to the walls, or whether I'd be find just anchoring it to the floor and the rafters - what's the view on here? Just trying to work out how many frame fixings to buy and my thoughts went down a different route!

 

[MikeG.]

Personally, if you've got the space I'd advocate spacing the studs off the wall, leaving a ventilated (if you can) gap. 25mm is OK. 50 would be better.

 

[LancsRick]

I'm just DPM'ing both sides to keep it compact and avoid any moisture wick.

 

[Homers double]

Hi mate
Take a look at this gypliner it’s way faster than studding out you can tank and insulate behind it and it’s quite cheap, I get mine from ND&I,

http://www.british-gypsum.com/white-boo ... all?tab0=0

 

[LancsRick]

Thanks just had a look at that. Not sure it will do what I want though as I'm going to be hanging all sorts off the walls so I need the strength aspect before it gets 18mm OSB3 and then all my tool racks mounted on that etc.

 

[Brandlin]

I'm wondering whether I actually need to bother fixing the studwork to the walls, or whether I'd be find just anchoring it to the floor and the rafters

... I'm going to be hanging all sorts off the walls so I need the strength aspect ...

I find your two quotes at odds.

I think you answered your own question.

Studwork in my basement is 25 x 37 roofing batten secured at 400 centres int sound brickwork with plastic plugs. OSB secured to that with simple wood screws. I've hung everything of fit i've wanted to with no problems, cabinets, cleats, tools... only my lumber rack has been screwed through the battens and into the wall behind.

 

[MikeG.]

I'm just DPM'ing both sides to keep it compact and avoid any moisture wick.

Please don't do this. DPM on the inside, and a building paper or breather membrane on the outside. Don't forget, it's the inside which is the dampest place, not the outside.

 

[LancsRick]

Why the membrane on the outside and not DPM?

 

[vectrex]

DPM membranes should be on the warm side and on the warm side only. The reason is that warm air is able to hold a lot more moisture than cold air. You want to keep the moisture on the warm side and not let it go through the insulation in the wall and condensate on the much colder side, giving you free water inside the wall.

In a theoretical perfect wall it wouldnt matter if you had DPM on both sides of the insulation, but in reality the membranes will not be completly air tight (screws and other things will perforate it). So if warm and humid air from the inside gets through the innermost membrane it should be able to ventilate out and not condensate on the outermost membrane.

 

[Tasky]

I'm just DPM'ing both sides to keep it compact and avoid any moisture wick.

I always have moments of confusion when people talk about this!! :lol:

In my head, it seems like you're putting this all over your garage walls:

 

[Brandlin]

lol

Reminds me when my son first went to Air Cadets and was issued his first DPM (Disruptive Pattern Material).
His mum asked him what DPM meant.
Quick as a flash and in all seriousness he said "Danger Protection Material"
:mrgreen: