Straight edge for jointing, best method

[Cornwall360]

Hi all
I’m needing advice on the best method for getting a good edge on timber, to joint together for table tops.
Issue I have is the timber length will be around 1600mm, but my jointer table is 720mm.
Concerned this is too long to feed through effectively on a small bench jointer to get a good edge.
I’ve seen posts just recommending a track saw for a good edge, or a hand planer as well.
Or is a bigger jointer the way to go?
Any help appreciated

Thanks

 

[--Tom--]

Take a look at this thread

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/how-to-edge-joint.112936/

 

[eribaMotters]

If the edges are parallel when the timber goes through your jointer [I'm guessing you mean thicknesser] they should be parallel when they come out and ready for final adjustment with a nice sharp hand plane. This is how I've always done mine.

Colin

 

[Alli]

I've just been joining some 1800 long boards together this morning. My jointer is about a metre in length and I knew it would make the boards concave along their length because I always do it when they re that long. But it gave my a start that was close, I think it was about 1mm concave.

I then used a No.4 smoother on 1 of the pieces and planed the 1st 2" of the board then 4" then 6" etc, and did the same on the last 2"-4"-6" slowly making the piece convex so it matches the piece I want to glue it too. I think what I'm trying to say is that it doesn't matter 'too' much if they are not totally true as long they match the other piece and the joint is tight.

I must say a track saw followed by a plane would probably the quickest way for long boards.

 

[worn thumbs]

The problem of American terminology on a British forum...... What we quite reasonably call a planer,they describe as a jointer and what we, equally rationally call a thicknesser is a planer over there.

The traditional answer to the question is a No 8 plane,properly sharpened and there may be one or two nuggets of wisdom regarding the sharpening if you seek them out.Some will actually be correct and others a bit quirky.

 

[dzj]

As said above, use your machine to achieve as best as possible mating surfaces, then do away with any inconsistencies
using a handplane. A sharp one would be preferable.

 

[Bingy man]

Last year I invested in a few new toys and these included a track saw and track + a router and I also purchased 1 an edge guide for use with the track and of 1400 router . Not had the weather lately ( small shop ) as I do a lot of projects outside . But the plan is to attempt joining long boards and also long dado,s etc so I’ll have to wait until then but in theory I’m hoping it will work . I went with festool as there didn’t seam to be any other makers offering the same set up ..

 

[niall Y]

A colleague who made stripped pine furniture, would edge joint straight off the table saw
I would use a pair of correctly set up roller stands in conjunction with my planer for the longer lengths. For ridiculously long lengths, where the stock was too unwieldy, I have used an electric hand plane, checking for flatness with a long spirit level.

 

[Adam W.]

The problem of American terminology on a British forum...... What we quite reasonably call a planer,they describe as a jointer and what we, equally rationally call a thicknesser is a planer over there.

The traditional answer to the question is a No 8 plane,properly sharpened and there may be one or two nuggets of wisdom regarding the sharpening if you seek them out.Some will actually be correct and others a bit quirky.

Oh what, sharpening......... Lovely !!

 

[gmgmgm]

I think what I'm trying to say is that it doesn't matter 'too' much if they are not totally true as long they match the other piece and the joint is tight.

This is a key point. Lots of people do table tops without a big planer - if you have a track saw then you can cut each joint to MATCH the other (look up techniques for how), and it will glue up just fine.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

I wonder how it was done in ye olden days before all this new fangled machinery? Could we learn from our forebears?

 

[Jacob]

As said above, use your machine to achieve as best as possible mating surfaces, then do away with any inconsistencies
using a handplane. A sharp one would be preferable.

Yes.
I number the boards and then stick board 1 vertically edge-upwards in the vice.
Then balance board 2 on it and see how well they fit and how flat - just stick a steel ruler up across them to show irregularities. Then hand plane either or both edges until they are a snug fit and co planar.
Then mark across the joint to show it's done and then start on board 2 and 3...etc.
So each joint is a custom fit and they aren't interchangeable.
Any sharp plane will do, I tend to prefer a 5 1/2 with normal camber.

 

[--Tom--]

I wonder how it was done in ye olden days before all this new fangled machinery? Could we learn from our forebears?

Worth reading Custard’s thread I posted, it is one of the most thorough write ups I’ve read

 

[Cabinetman]

Yes.
I number the boards and then stick board 1 vertically edge-upwards in the vice.
Then balance board 2 on it and see how well they fit and how flat - just stick a steel ruler up across them to show irregularities. Then hand plane either or both edges until they are a snug fit and co planar.
Then mark across the joint to show it's done and then start on board 2 and 3...etc.
So each joint is a custom fit and they aren't interchangeable.
Any sharp plane will do, I tend to prefer a 5 1/2 with normal camber.

Yes that’s about right, I am fortunate to have a window behind my bench so that when you put the board on top you can use any light showing between as a guide where not to plane.
Also helps to use the fingers on the hand holding the front of the plane to not hold the knob but hold the casting next to the knob and curl most of the fingers under the plane and resting/sliding along the wood, this really helps to keep the plane consistently at 90 degrees to the side of the board. Sorry for the bad description.
Ian

 

[Cornwall360]

This is a key point. Lots of people do table tops without a big planer - if you have a track saw then you can cut each joint to MATCH the other (look up techniques for how), and it will glue up just fine.

Ok great, I’ve got decent track saw with 3 meters of track so this could work.
Any pointers on the techniques you mention to get them to match?
Thanks

 

[sams93]

If the edges are parallel when the timber goes through your jointer [I'm guessing you mean thicknesser] they should be parallel when they come out and ready for final adjustment with a nice sharp hand plane. This is how I've always done mine.

Colin

I think his 'jointer' is our 'planer' rather than a thicknesser.

I have planed 2.1m lengths on my Kity 636 which has a 1m table length and that was fine. I think the 'rule' is about 2x the table length. You can use some support rollers if needed to 'extend' the outfeed table if needed.

I think you will be able to use your 'jointer' for the job in question. If you arent sure then try it out on a 3x2 to see how it goes before you do the real thing.

 

[Spectric]

The problem of American terminology on a British forum......

It may be called the UKW but it is not a British forum as it is open to all and we welcome all contributors even if we have variations in terminology which just makes things interesting.

 

[Jacob]

Yes that’s about right, I am fortunate to have a window behind my bench so that when you put the board on top you can use any light showing between as a guide where not to plane.
Also helps to use the fingers on the hand holding the front of the plane to not hold the knob but hold the casting next to the knob and curl most of the fingers under the plane and resting/sliding along the wood, this really helps to keep the plane consistently at 90 degrees to the side of the board. Sorry for the bad description.
Ian

Or one or both edges can be slightly convex which shows up as the board on top pivoting on the one in the vice. Shows where the high points are.
The objective isn't to get 2 edges exactly at 90º but just to get them to fit together to leave a flat surface. One could be 89º and the other 91º, or one convex and the other concave, as long a they are a good fit together

 

[deema]

No reason why you can’t joint your boards in your jointer. It’s all about technique of using the machine.of the stuff is too heavy to adequately apply the right pressure on the outfeed / too thin that its weight will cause it to curve with the weight off the table you need to create a support which is level with your surfacer top. A roller can be setup to do this.

 

[Austin Branson]

Ok great, I’ve got decent track saw with 3 meters of track so this could work.
Any pointers on the techniques you mention to get them to match?
Thanks

I would joint straight from the saw. Use a No.8 for preference - you will get away with a No.7. The plane must be sharp. Start the cut by pressing hard on the knob, and pushing the plane forward - as stated earlier, curl the fingers of left hand around the plane, it both steadies the plane, and helps keep the plane on track. As the cut progresses, apply downward pressure on the tote to equal the pressure on the knob. As you approach the end if the cut, apply more and more pressure on the tote, while reducing the pressure on the knob. This will help reduce the tendancy for the cut to become convex. Do this on the two adjacent boards, then stand (on edge) one board on the other. With a light behind, you will clearly see any points where they do not meet correctly. You will also be able to check that the two edges meet at 180 degrees. Let us know how you get on, please. Best wishes.