Stop shavings

[Karl]

Am I correct in thinking that stop shavings should be made with a plane whose length is shorter than that of the piece being planed? Or can any length plane be used?

I ask as I have been struggling with my jointer on a 14" piece. Can't seem to get the hollowed edge.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Chris Knight]

You should be able to work with any length of plane. If you are not getting it to cut in the centre part of your edge, it sounds as though it is hollowed already! (Or your plane is a bit banana shaped :wink: ).

You will get a deeper hollow with a shorter plane as it won't be supported by the ends as a long plane will but you should be able to get as much as the blade protrusion in depth with the long plane.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Karl,

I normally use my #7 but sometimes use the #6 for the stop shavings if the wood is not very long and then go back to the #7 for the full length cuts - find it a bit quicker and easier that way.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Karl]

Hi guys

Thanks for the input.

The problem I am having is that my straight edge is pivoting about 2" in from the left hand edge of the board - indicating a bump.

The board is 20" long, I am using my Clifton #7, and my straight edge is straight, if that makes sense.

Having just had a futher play, I know the board is hollow after the stop shavings - straight edge pivots both ends. But after taking a couple of through shavings (to remove pencil lines) the "bump" appears towards the left hand end. Perhaps it's my planing technique in taking the through shavings.

Cheers

Karl

 

[David C]

Karl,

When I reviewed the first Clifton planes, they were all hollow in length. To be fair, most planes are, modern Stanley particularly so.

I have not seen a recent example but suspect this may be the cause behind your observations.

David

 

[Chris Knight]

Karl,
Try turning the board around and laning from the other end.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Karl,

These oak boards we all jointed with a Clifton #7 and #6 and resulted in perfect joints and a dead flat panel, so I doubt it is the plane unless you've been very unlucky with yours.

I would try Chris' suggestion and take very fine shavings for the last couple.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[David C]

Paul,

Fine table top!

You may have been lucky with yours. I can assure you that the first ones sent to me were hollow enough not to be able to plane a straight edge with a fine, 1 or 2 thou shaving.

David

 

[Karl]

Hi David

It isn't the plane - the toe, fore and after mouth and heel are nice and flat, with some minor (prob less than 1 thou) hollowing between each.

I will have another sharpen and another go today and report back.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Karl]

I think i've cracked it.

The shaving I was taking was probably a little too fine. Increasing it to a 2 thou shaving seems to have done the trick.

Cheers

Karl

 

[milkman]

What are stop shavings? apologies for my ignorance. Thanks

 

[Karl]

Hi Milkman

Stop shavings are used in order to get a slight hollow in any given piece of timber.

Instead of planing the timber in the usual fashion, the cut is started just inside the front edge, and, the plane is lifted (whilst still moving) just before the end of the board. This way, neither end of the board is planed, but the bit inbetween is. Continue doing this until the board is either sufficiently hollow or the plane stops cutting. Then take one or two through shavings - this time planing the full length of the board. This should produce an edge which is hollow in its length.

Hope that makes sense.

Cheers

Karl

 

[David C]

Very glad to hear that that one is now resolved.

It is often very difficult to ascertain and diagnose problems over the net!

Much easier when standing at the same bench.........

best wishes,
David

 

[adrian]

My clifton #7 is about 3 thou hollow at the mouth, if I recall correctly. I was having exactly the same problem as the original poster. I didn't try taking a heavier cut as a solution.

 

[Karl]

Hi Adrian

Sorry to hear about your #7 - some times I guess it's pot luck, which is ridiculous when you consider how much "quality" planes cost. I have a LN #6 which is absolute pants, and the build quality is no where near that of the Clifton. Can't work out why it won't work correctly, but it won't !

Have a look at my recent thread to see how a Clifton #7 should perform.

Cheers

Karl

 

[David C]

Karl,

Its a shame you are so far away, I would probably be able to diagnose your plane for you, having seen hundreds of planes over the years and many many manufacturing perversions which cause trouble..........!

Do you ever visit North Devon?

David

 

[adrian]

The clifton #7 I have is actually the second one. I returned the first one because the frog was crooked, so when the cut was uniform, the mouth size would vary quite visibly over its width. This made it very difficult for me to set the tool for a uniform cut, because I do that by making the mouth uniform. I wasn't inspired to get more clifton planes.

 

[Karl]

David - not been down that part of the country for a couple of years. Stoke on Trent is as far South as I get nowadays ! I haven't given up on the LN - I will hopefully find time in the next week or so to figure it out. Many thanks for the offer though.

Adrian - I can unerstand your reluctance to buy Clifton if you've had two duff 'ens.

Cheers

Karl