Stop Chamfers

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pitch pine

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Can anyone give a hand tool stop chamfer lesson? I am cutting them on reclaimed pitch pine, approx 5x5" section. I am copying the chamfers on 3 newell posts that came from an old staircase.

Many thanks.
 
I did these with a router not quite a hand tool though
269248666_458d178329.jpg
 
pitch pine":12mrhnml said:
Can anyone give a hand tool stop chamfer lesson? I am cutting them on reclaimed pitch pine, approx 5x5" section. I am copying the chamfers on 3 newell posts that came from an old staircase.

Many thanks.

The old way is a drawknife but "some skill" is required...

Failing which, chamfer planes, chamferering spokeshaves, and mitreing guides have all been devised and used.

BugBear
 
The way I do a stopped chamfer using hand tools only is as follows:
Mark out the chamfer using a pencil gauge, remove most of the waste from the centre section with a small plane (block is good for this) down to the lines. A bullnose plane is then quite useful to start to remove shavings back towards the stopped ends. Eventually you won't be able to take any more shavings 'cos of the stopped bits and if you've done it correctly you ought to have about 25mm or so left to remove.
This is the tricky bit. You need to use a wide chisel (25mm) to remove slicing cuts down to the lines so that it will blend in with the planed surfaces. The curved end is made by by starting bevel-down on the arris and cutting with a 'scooping' action down to the line in gradual stages until the two blend together. If a straight end is needed, this is much simpler. Start on the arris again and take shavings off at about 45 deg with the chisel (held normally) until a crisp junction is achieved between the two surfaces...oh, and chamfers should not be sanded BTW, so finish is straight from the tool.
Much easier doing this with a router like his Lordship - Rob
 
Block plane a far as you can go - I use the small LN apron plane as youcan get very close to the end fo the cut.

Finish off with a sharp chisel

I guess a spoke shave might be usable rather than the chisel for the last bit.

The last one I did, used a skew blokc plane with a 45 degree giude block on the fence, but it was all the way through, not stopped.

Router is easier, but less fun :wink:
 
Many thanks for the replies. I just got on and had a go and arrived at a similar method to woodbloke. Cleaning that last inch on the chamfer can be a pain when the grain goes in the "wrong" direction. I ended up using a sharp wide chisel, my attempts at using my bullnose plane were poor (but I don't think i have this set up right yet). This was quite a good practice piece as the part I am making doesn't have to be immaculate. I am copying a newell post so my bench will have the required four legs! I took pity on the posts as they were destined for the fire, along with some of the treads from the same staircase 13" wide and 1.25" thick.
 
Another method ...

Use a round file to shape the end, then plane up to this with a block plane, or just use a chisel (depends on the length). Fine tune the end with either a shoulder plane (used on the diagonal) or chisel.

Stanleyinfill3.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Now I'm a bit late, but maybe this can be of some interest nonetheless :)

My steps are the following:

1. Marking with a pencil line

stopped_chamfer1.JPG


2. Sawing in the ends

stopped_chamfer2.JPG


3. "Diving" into the edge with a rabbet block plane square to one end...
stopped_chamfer3.JPG


4. Then skewing the plane a little bit

stopped_chamfer5.JPG


5. ...and approaching the other end coming up to a square position again

6. If the chamfer is longer than this show piece, I let the plane come up with the nose like this

stopped_chamfer6.JPG


Finally I got this and go on to define the stops with a chisel...

stopped_chamfer4.JPG
 
Hi,

I would use a flat bottomed spokeshave. If they are very long maybe do the middle with a block plane skewed.

Good luck

CWR
 
More interesting replies. I hadn't thought of using a round file - it's obvious when someone says it! I think the ones I am copying are "lambs tongue" stopped chamfers, basically an "s" shape in profile, so a file should work well. Like the pictures of the big chamfers. I love looking at structural timbers in old industrial buildings. Thanks for the step by step photos. Will you post the next few? Flat bottomed spokeshave, I'll have to look out for one of those to have a play.
 
pitch pine":2czgova3 said:
More interesting replies. I hadn't thought of using a round file - it's obvious when someone says it! I think the ones I am copying are "lambs tongue" stopped chamfers, basically an "s" shape in profile, so a file should work well. Like the pictures of the big chamfers. I love looking at structural timbers in old industrial buildings. Thanks for the step by step photos. Will you post the next few? Flat bottomed spokeshave, I'll have to look out for one of those to have a play.

Oh yes indeedy. If you're doing hand cut stop chamfers the LAST thing I would make is round ends, which is what a router leaves. Square, mitred or lambs tongue...

Here's some nice chamfering in metal, done in ten minutes:

http://www.sauerandsteiner.com/news/200 ... lanes.html

BugBear
 
Tony":ozlxhd4z said:
Steers":ozlxhd4z said:
chamfer1.jpg

chamfer2.jpg


Small home made chamfer plane.

How do you use it? Sorry, I can't quite decide :oops:

Just adjust the fence to the width of the chamfer you want. The blade it at the front like a bulnose plane with a very tight mouth. The blade automatically seats so there really is nothing to it. Where you want the chamfer to stop just clamp a scrap piece 1 / 16 inch from the mark. Perfect chamfers every time. The plane is set up for a block plane iron (marples) and fits in the palm of yer hand. I will post pictures as soon as I get home of it in use.
 
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