Sticky Collet...

[matt]

Really pleased with my recently purchased CMT router, except for one rather irritating thing... The router bits get stuck fast in the collet and I have to remove the collet completely and bash the end on my workbench before it will (eventually...) release the bit.

I asked Axminster to send me a new 1/4" collet and nut. They sent my JUST a new collet. Tried it tonight and it is the same. Therefore, also tried the 1/2" collet. It too got the bit stuck fast.

Now I'm figuring that it is:
A) The nut that is at fault.
B) I'm overtightening the nut?
c) There is something else that I am doing wrong?

Interested to know whether anyone else has had a similar experience?

Cheers

 

[llangatwgnedd]

Ah!
Ron Fox to the rescue

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_1.html

 

[matt]

Ahaaaaaa... This is my particular problem (Thanks, Sawdust Producer (& Ron)):

A secondary problem related to the first is that the 'snap-in' design of collet requires two bites of the spanner to release the cutter. The first bite releases the initial friction of the nut, after which you can take several turns of the nut with your fingers before it tightens up again. What has happened is that the shoulder in the nut has come to bear against the shoulder on the thimble, but cannot pull over the thimble because the cutter shank prevents the thimble compressing. You need to apply the spanner for a second time to pull the collet up out of the tapered motor shaft. The collet nut now, in effect, acts as a miniature hub-puller. This need for two bites of the spanner is my second most frequently asked question.

Although I don't fully understand the described solution... I get the second tighteing and then use the spanner to continue undoing the nut. I then end up with the collet and nut, complete with the bit still jammed in the collet, all in my hand. Smash the damn thing on the bench a few times and it eventually release the bit.

 

[JFC]

You need an Xtreme Xtension ! It gets rid of all that messing around with the collet .

 

[llangatwgnedd]

I do think it is this paragraph is your problem

With these collets, it is absolutely essential that the collet thimble be snapped firmly into the collet nut so that the shoulder on the thimble compresses and clicks under the shoulder in the collet nut. If this is not done, the cutter can be inserted, after a fashion, but will remain with the thimble in the motor shaft when you try to remove it. The trouble is that some routers come with their collets dismantled, and the thimble is never installed properly. In addition users might pull the thimble out of the nut for cleaning and not snap it right back.

When I first had my Freud I also had this problem until the thimble clicked home.

 

[matt]

I do think it is this paragraph is your problem

With these collets, it is absolutely essential that the collet thimble be snapped firmly into the collet nut so that the shoulder on the thimble compresses and clicks under the shoulder in the collet nut. If this is not done, the cutter can be inserted, after a fashion, but will remain with the thimble in the motor shaft when you try to remove it. The trouble is that some routers come with their collets dismantled, and the thimble is never installed properly. In addition users might pull the thimble out of the nut for cleaning and not snap it right back.

When I first had my Freud I also had this problem until the thimble clicked home.

My collet thimble is snapped in to place. The router came fitted with the 1/2" collet and, when I changed it to the 1/4" I was aware that it needed to be pushed fully home. It's definately the paragraph that I cited in my previous post that is my problem - it's just the solution that does not actually work in my case . :?

Cheers

 

[Chris Knight]

Matt,

I thought the CMT was an ELU/DW 625 clone and so I am puzzled by your problem. Nonetheless a possible solution is to do what is needed on many other routers, including my Bosch which has a collet that snaps into the nut but still requires a SMART RAP WITH THE SPANNER after the initial loosening of the nut. I use a fairly heavy dury spanner and whack the nut itselef after it has been undone a turn or so after the initial looosening and before it starts to try and extract the collet- which it won't do without the knock.

This is standard practice for many older, especially USA routers.

 

[devonwoody]

You forum members need a TRITON router.

No troubles

 

[Knot Competent]

Well said, DW! Let's try to get them all to see sense, and get a Triton router. The wind-up, wind-down mechanism makes life so easy for me. I thoroughly recommend them!

John

 

[Les Mahon]

Matt,

I have exactly the same problem, but only with cheap cutters. If I use Trend or Freud cutters it works fine. I Have just put it down to the no name cutters which I'm replacing bit by bit.

Les

 

[SketchUp Guru]

I wonder if the CMT router uses the same collet as the DW625/ Elu. If it does, you might want to consider getting an Eliminator Chuck. See this link: http://www.thecraftsmangallery.com/Merc ... =W/CTGY/RC

I had the same problem with the 1/2" collet that came with my DW625. The collet insert was snapped into the nut but it would still not let go of the bit. DeWalt sent me a new collet and nut which took care of it. When the Eliminator became available for the DW625, I bought one and have never put the OEM collet back on.

I have a ball-end, T-handled wrench that makes changing bits a simple thing.

The Xtreme Xtension, which I also have is a possibility if you need the extension, too. I found it a PIA to get it running without a bunch of vibration and for normal use, I dislike having the cutter that far from the lower bearing. The extension causes increased bearing wear due to the increase in side loading on said bearings. I only use an extension when absolutely needed and use slow, gentle feed to reduce wear and tear on the router.

 

[matt]

Thanks for the feedback.

Looks as though I have to be more agressive with my spanner taps in the early stages of removing the bit.

If that fails... I may resort to an extra accessory, altho I'd rather spend the money on something else.

Cheers

 

[Anonymous]

Howdy Matt!

Joining in from across the pond and bit further. My DW625 collets were a might 'resistive' to relinquishing bits at first. I had to make a habit of cleaning the bit shanks with fine steel wool (Is it called something else in the UK?) or Scotchbrite pads before inserting them. After several such cleanings, the sticky bit problem went (mostly) away.

Another point not mentioned (or I missed) is that one must be careful NOT to let the bit shank seat fully into the router shaft. Keep it raised about a 1/16 inch. There's some law of physics (or psychics, can't keep them distinguished ) that doesn't like the combination of friction on both the sides AND ends of the bit shanks.

HTH
BobH

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks Bobh for that very useful info, specially the reason for not letting the shank bottom in collet, I previously had always worried about that one. Although I once had a cheapo bit drop and lose profile because of that situation.