Stickley side table.

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undergroundhunter

Established Member
Joined
12 Dec 2011
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Location
doncaster
Just thought I'd post a quick thread on my latest project.

This is a design for a popular woodworking book on arts and crafts furniture, I have modified the design a little as I didn't like the curve on the stretcher going right to the end. Its all made for solid oak and was made entirely by hand, no sand paper has touched any surface on the project its all hand planed and scraped if needed. The underside of the top still has the jack plane marks in it as is traditional on non show surfaces.

The finish is Osmo polyx clear satin matt with 2 coats of clear wax over the top. The table top is as smooth as glass.

Unfortunately I have no WIP pics as I kept forgetting to take them as I went along.

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Matt
 

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undergroundhunter":3dlx36dp said:
Just thought I'd post a quick thread on my latest project.

This is a design for a popular woodworking book on arts and crafts furniture, I have modified the design a little as I didn't like the curve on the stretcher going right to the end.

Matt

Smashing work Matt, you should be absolutely delighted with that.

=D>

Incidentally, the workshop where I trained often used similar curves on stretchers, aprons, and rails. We always ended the curve at least 1 or 2mm away from the end. If you run the curve right to the end then you're left with a very vulnerable piece of end grain that's right on the shoulder of the tenon. This will invariably break off before assembly, so you made a wise call with that decision!
 
custard":2gnz2rq5 said:
undergroundhunter":2gnz2rq5 said:
Just thought I'd post a quick thread on my latest project.

This is a design for a popular woodworking book on arts and crafts furniture, I have modified the design a little as I didn't like the curve on the stretcher going right to the end.

Matt

Smashing work Matt, you should be absolutely delighted with that.

=D>

Incidentally, the workshop where I trained often used similar curves on stretchers, aprons, and rails. We always ended the curve at least 1 or 2mm away from the end. If you run the curve right to the end then you're left with a very vulnerable piece of end grain that's right on the shoulder of the tenon. This will invariably break off before assembly, so you made a wise call with that decision!

This was exactly why I opted to leave a space I think it was around 1/2"

All my layout marked were scraped before assembly and then once it was glued up I went and touched up any rough areas.

Matt
 
Eric The Viking":vhwdr581 said:
Really nice, especially the finish. Thanks for posting.

E..

I have Custard to thank for the finish, using Polyx was his suggestion, and to be honest I love it. It has a really light sheen before the wax is applied, so the level of sheen is controllable, I made the base less shiny than the top. Its so unfussy to apply I just wiped it on with some clean rag then wiped off the excess after around 10 mins then just left it to cure. A little goes a really long way, I ordered a 125ml tin as I wasn't sure I would like it and I've not even used a quarter of it.

I would urge anyone to try this finish.

Matt
 
superb piece, I would imagine this would sell no problem, love the simplicity of it, nice design.
 
thetyreman":266949qi said:
superb piece, I would imagine this would sell no problem, love the simplicity of it, nice design.

Thank you, unfortunately I cant take credit for the design just the execution.

Matt
 

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