Graham Orm
Established Member
Nice one Steve, what are you using to paint with? I'd use a roller for bulk of it and a brush for the joints.
Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls
- Thread starter Steve Maskery
- Start date
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Steve Maskery
Established Member
The paint is Johnstone's Quick Drying Opaque Wood Finish in Dove Grey. It's from their Trade Woodworks range. Good stuff, covers very well on bare wood. No primer required. It doesn't so so far on rough sawn, but on the machined cladding it goes fine. I've used about half a 5L tin to paint 74 lengths at 4.2m long. It was about £42 for the tin. White and other standard colours are a bit cheaper.
I'll put the second coat on when it's all been installed and nail holes filled.
Until now, mixed-in-store colours were 5L minimum size, but they have just started doing 2.5L, so I'll probably use the same stuff for the doors. 2.5L will be plenty.
I'll put the second coat on when it's all been installed and nail holes filled.
Until now, mixed-in-store colours were 5L minimum size, but they have just started doing 2.5L, so I'll probably use the same stuff for the doors. 2.5L will be plenty.
John15
Established Member
Terrific work Steve - I follow your workshop's progress with great interest.
John
John
Graham Orm
Established Member
Steve Maskery":2mtlc05a said:
Seems expensive but good paint is never cheap and cheap paint is always carp.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
It's cheaper than the Sadolin equivalent. 2.5L cost me £37-ish, I think.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
No progress today unfortunately. The forecast for this morning 9-12 was Heavy Rain, and it started at 9am on the dot.
This afternoon the forecast was for Very Heavy Rain, followed by Heavy Rain. We've had none. Very breezy, and I wouldn't want to be trying to install membrane in it, but it's actually been quite a reasonable afternoon. But as I expected a downpour at any moment I stayed in and baked a chocolate cake instead. No dogs about...
Now all I have to do is stop myself from eating every bit of it.
Talking of which, I weighed myself this morning. I'm almost down to the weight I was before I broke my leg last spring. Not quite yet but it is the lowest I've been since I put it all back on after the fall, when I was immobile for months.
But I suppose the cake will put a dent in that
Never mind, I can work it off tomorrow, the forecast is fine.
So that's pretty much all I've done today, apart from setting fire to the kitchen.
S
PS, I am using a brush, actually, for the painting. I think a roller would be a bit quicker on the smooth stuff, but as I'm doing it in small-ish batches I don't mind too much.
This afternoon the forecast was for Very Heavy Rain, followed by Heavy Rain. We've had none. Very breezy, and I wouldn't want to be trying to install membrane in it, but it's actually been quite a reasonable afternoon. But as I expected a downpour at any moment I stayed in and baked a chocolate cake instead. No dogs about...
Now all I have to do is stop myself from eating every bit of it.
Talking of which, I weighed myself this morning. I'm almost down to the weight I was before I broke my leg last spring. Not quite yet but it is the lowest I've been since I put it all back on after the fall, when I was immobile for months.
But I suppose the cake will put a dent in that
Never mind, I can work it off tomorrow, the forecast is fine.
So that's pretty much all I've done today, apart from setting fire to the kitchen.
S
PS, I am using a brush, actually, for the painting. I think a roller would be a bit quicker on the smooth stuff, but as I'm doing it in small-ish batches I don't mind too much.
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doctor Bob
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Alder
Established Member
Is there a DVD called bakeshop essentials in the offing?
Russell
Russell
dc_ni
Established Member
mmmm Cake (homer)
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
"I'll put the second coat on when it's all been installed and nail holes filled."
:shock:
You cannot be serious! How many thousands of holes?
:shock:
You cannot be serious! How many thousands of holes?
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Well, yes, quite a few, I guess. I'll just have to tackle it the same way that one eats an elephant, one bit at a time.
S
S
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Well after a slightly dodgy start today, it's ened up being very productive. The dodgy start was me waking up from an absolutely horrible dream. I very rarely dream, or at least very rarely remember dreaming, but this was vivid, getting lost in interminable hotel corridors. Horrible.
However, the build was much better.
I wanted to get the door frame in place, as it is sitting around just asking to get damaged. I've already damaged the door slightly, it was leaning up against the front wall and blew over. Another victim of Bertha, I think.
The frame needs to be installed flush with the front laths, but I can't put them on until it is membraned, so I set to with the scissors and stapler. I'm quite inclined to throw the staplers (I bought two from Aldi/Lidl) into the bin and go and get a decent one from Cromwell. I think I waste more than half the staples. I did find my old hand stapler, a Kinzo, and although the staples themselves are not as substantial, it never ever misfires. It was much easier to use around all the window corners. It was fiddly work, I have to ensure that all areas are covered and that the upper layers always overlap the lower layers.
Around the doorway itself I had a problem. My stud is slightly off vertical and the sheathing is very slightly off, too, but in the opposite direction. The result is that the OSB does not line up very well:
So I sawed it off and put in the missing piece of OSB:
I needed a length of half-width membrane, which was a real challenge as it was blowing a gale this morning. So I held the membrane down as a sandwich between two boards:
When I got to the windows it was time for some patchy work to maintain the upper-over-the-lower technique:
So now I could put in the door frame, or so I thought. I assembled it and put it in place, just the right amount of clearance all round, looked good, until:
One side was square to the cill the other was not, by quite a way. I couldn't work it out, until I got my tape out. The distance between the mortices in the cill is 36" exactly. But in the head it is 36 1/4". So the top is 1/4" longer then the bottom. So I could do with some advice here, I might give Cowboy Builder a shout. Do I alter the mortices to make them both 36" or both 36 1/4"?
Or indeed split the difference?
The door is 36" exactly and will need a bit of clearance. But is 1/4" too much? It's quite a few years since I've hung any doors and it was never something I was very good at, to be honest. They always seemed to be OK but not quite perfect. I just don't do the job often enough to get good at it. Yes, I think I'll call CB.
So with most of the front membrane in place I finished the day by putting some cladding on the area to the right of the door. For every layer of cladding, I have an offcut of about 650mm, so these were perfect for this area. It means that I can measure the waste of cladding in inches per length rather then feet. That is very satisfying.
So this is where I am at:
I'm very pleased with my day's work. The only ****-up I've made is losing the lens cap to my camera. I usually put it in my pocket, but today I have lost it. The trouble is that if it is on the grass somewhere it could lie there for a very long time. I need a scythe to cut the grass.
Edit: I've just been out and found the lens cap - it was in the ditch around the concrete base. Hooray!
However, the build was much better.
I wanted to get the door frame in place, as it is sitting around just asking to get damaged. I've already damaged the door slightly, it was leaning up against the front wall and blew over. Another victim of Bertha, I think.
The frame needs to be installed flush with the front laths, but I can't put them on until it is membraned, so I set to with the scissors and stapler. I'm quite inclined to throw the staplers (I bought two from Aldi/Lidl) into the bin and go and get a decent one from Cromwell. I think I waste more than half the staples. I did find my old hand stapler, a Kinzo, and although the staples themselves are not as substantial, it never ever misfires. It was much easier to use around all the window corners. It was fiddly work, I have to ensure that all areas are covered and that the upper layers always overlap the lower layers.
Around the doorway itself I had a problem. My stud is slightly off vertical and the sheathing is very slightly off, too, but in the opposite direction. The result is that the OSB does not line up very well:
So I sawed it off and put in the missing piece of OSB:
I needed a length of half-width membrane, which was a real challenge as it was blowing a gale this morning. So I held the membrane down as a sandwich between two boards:
When I got to the windows it was time for some patchy work to maintain the upper-over-the-lower technique:
So now I could put in the door frame, or so I thought. I assembled it and put it in place, just the right amount of clearance all round, looked good, until:
One side was square to the cill the other was not, by quite a way. I couldn't work it out, until I got my tape out. The distance between the mortices in the cill is 36" exactly. But in the head it is 36 1/4". So the top is 1/4" longer then the bottom. So I could do with some advice here, I might give Cowboy Builder a shout. Do I alter the mortices to make them both 36" or both 36 1/4"?
Or indeed split the difference?
The door is 36" exactly and will need a bit of clearance. But is 1/4" too much? It's quite a few years since I've hung any doors and it was never something I was very good at, to be honest. They always seemed to be OK but not quite perfect. I just don't do the job often enough to get good at it. Yes, I think I'll call CB.
So with most of the front membrane in place I finished the day by putting some cladding on the area to the right of the door. For every layer of cladding, I have an offcut of about 650mm, so these were perfect for this area. It means that I can measure the waste of cladding in inches per length rather then feet. That is very satisfying.
So this is where I am at:
I'm very pleased with my day's work. The only ****-up I've made is losing the lens cap to my camera. I usually put it in my pocket, but today I have lost it. The trouble is that if it is on the grass somewhere it could lie there for a very long time. I need a scythe to cut the grass.
Edit: I've just been out and found the lens cap - it was in the ditch around the concrete base. Hooray!
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Woodmonkey
Established Member
Looking good Steve, nearly 29,000 views, you are popular!
1/8"clearance either side of the door is a pretty sensible amount, especially once you've got a fw coats of paint on door and frame. The last (and only) time I assembled a ready made frame I had exactly the same issue, and adjusted the mortice to the wider dimension.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I'm starting to think about door hardware and I know that there are one or two people on here who know much more than I do about door security. But right now I'm thinking just about the hinges and handles and locks.
I've found some security hinges that don't need separate hinge bolts:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-grade ... of-2/22313
For three doors I'd need 5 packs and have a hinge left over.
For locks I need something not too wide, such as
http://www.screwfix.com/p/yale-5-lever- ... 64mm/30963
http://www.screwfix.com/p/yale-5-lever- ... 64mm/79649
If I have two locks as above, will I be able to get them keyed-alike?
Then finish it off with a trad lever plate:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/jedo-antique- ... 95mm/48551
Opinions gratefully received
I've found some security hinges that don't need separate hinge bolts:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-grade ... of-2/22313
For three doors I'd need 5 packs and have a hinge left over.
For locks I need something not too wide, such as
http://www.screwfix.com/p/yale-5-lever- ... 64mm/30963
http://www.screwfix.com/p/yale-5-lever- ... 64mm/79649
If I have two locks as above, will I be able to get them keyed-alike?
Then finish it off with a trad lever plate:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/jedo-antique- ... 95mm/48551
Opinions gratefully received
Baldhead
Established Member
Steve have you seen my post about 30% off from IronmongeryDirect? It may work out cheaper in the long run.
Baldhead
Baldhead
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Hi Baldhead, yes I did, but...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-grade ... of-2/22313
£7.42 per pair inc VAT
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... 6mm/322569
£15.84 per pair inc VAT
As far as I can see they are the same.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/eclipse-grade ... of-2/22313
£7.42 per pair inc VAT
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... 6mm/322569
£15.84 per pair inc VAT
As far as I can see they are the same.
Baldhead
Established Member
Steve Maskery":rq1q66rj said:
No saving whatsoever there, plus you would have had to spend minimum of £75!
I have used them in the past for drawer runners but nothing else and only because screwfix and Toolstation didn't sell the type I wanted.
Baldhead
