Startrite bandsaw roller guides

[dickm]

Does anyone know whether item 280434051412 currently on Ebay is:-
(a) suitable for a 352 saw
(b) any advantage over the Meehanite guides that are presently fitted to my saw?
Certainly don't look like a bargain, but, hey, it's coming up to Christmas

 

[9fingers]

They look like the description ie should fit my Startrite 18-s-1 Bandsaw which is the same era as the RW30.

The 352 is a more modern saw but if it has simple cylindrical holes to locate the guides then they will possibly fit.

All those screws you see in the picture are in fact eccentrics for adjusting the clearance of the blade.

The lateral guides seem to have two bearing on each peg so designed for wide blades but I expect these could be reduced to a single bearing for narrower blades.

If you measure the diameter of your guide mounts, I might just go down the garden and measure mine if you like? ( even though it is pi88ing with rain!)

Bob

 

[paulm]

Why would you want to swap the blocks for bearings ?!!!

I think they're great, simple and highly effective.

Need a bit of care to adjust but otherwise very good in my experience.

Cheers, Paul

 

[jhwbigley]

I might just go down the garden and measure mine if you like?
Bob

:lol:




JHB

 

[dickm]

Thanks, guys.
Bob:- for future reference, I'll measure the back bar on my 352 and email you.
Paul:- you're thinking like I was - is there any good reason to spend upwards of £60 on roller guides in place of the present ones?
Useful point about the double rollers - hadn't spotted that.

 

[Jake]

I also think that blocks are better than bearings.

 

[9fingers]

is there any good reason to spend upwards of £60 on roller guides in place of the present ones?

I don't know the answer to that Q. I've always used saws with guide bearings on. Surely they must offer the greatest low friction support.
However as a pair of blocks in a chevron format could arguably support the blade closer to the work so maybe they are better it kept continually adjusted?

My bandsaw is used for wood, metal, plastics,SRBP, tufnol and fibre glass. Sealed roller guides are the ones I favour. I can't imagine guide blocks impregnated with metal swarf being much good.

Bob

 

[dickm]

However as a pair of blocks in a chevron format could arguably support the blade closer to the work so maybe they are better it kept continually adjusted?

My bandsaw is used for wood, metal, plastics,SRBP, tufnol and fibre glass. Sealed roller guides are the ones I favour. I can't imagine guide blocks impregnated with metal swarf being much good.

Good point about the chevron shape, Bob. Not sure whether swarf would be a problem - Startrite claim the 352 is suitable for metal cutting on its slower speed, but have never tried it in a serious way. Bosch jigsaw with metal cutting blade does most stuff that's too thick for the nibbler.
And on looking again at the 352, those guides would not fit anyway, so that's sorted it!

 

[beech1948]

Hi,

I went through this about 5 years ago when I bought a 352.

A chat with Startright led to them confirming that they had a kit but that I would get little or no advantage over the Mehtanite blocks.

My 352 had not had much work done with it but the blocks were looking a bit rounded so I used the "scary sharp" process to flatten them off....it turned out to be about 4 thou only...and to clean up all sides.

Care in setting them and I have had no problems in 5yrs.

The rear most support is a steel rod with I think a carbide end. These can wear very badly. Spares can be got from ALT Saws for a few quid. I just turned mine through 90 degrees and used it for another year.

I can't really see any advantage to changing these blocks on the 352.

regards
Alan

 

[srp]

I changed mine on the 352 for the ones that Axminster sell Here .
Much easier to adjust, and while I wasn't too unhappy with the blocks that give side-to-side support the crummy rod with the carbide end is rubbish. The new roller guides provide much better for and aft support, and without all those sparks.

I had to make up a couple of blocks to marry the guides up to the vertical bars, and the bottom bearing guide had to have its' adjusting bar cut down to fit. This involved a bit of brazing, but nothing too major.

 

[Fred Page]

I had to make up a couple of blocks to marry the guides up to the vertical bars, and the bottom bearing guide had to have its' adjusting bar cut down to fit. This involved a bit of brazing, but nothing too major

I like the idea of changing to roller guides but I'm not into brazing or mechanical engineering. Your modifications frighten me off. Happy to spend £37 on the Axminster upgrade but not if it involves the work you describe.
Fred - whose original blocks are still okay but are an absolute nightmare to adjust.

 

[Harbo]

One of the reviewers on the Axminster page rates it highly but had difficulty in converting it to suit the 352.

Rod

 

[paulm]

Fred - whose original blocks are still okay but are an absolute nightmare to adjust.

Why is that Fred ?

The blocks do have a tendancy to move a bit as you tighten the nuts, but using a bit of paper around the blade and pinching the two blocks together firmly with the left hand while tightening with the spanner in the right tends to work pretty well for me.

Cheers, Paul

 

[srp]

One of the reviewers on the Axminster page rates it highly but had difficulty in converting it to suit the 352.

Rod

The bits I made up are the ones painted with black hammerite. The top one is a piece of 1/2" x 1 1/2" ms, a bit of 3/4" bar attached to the underside with a socket head cap screw (which the blade guide is attached to), and a short length of tube brazed to the top, which is how it attaches to the adjusting column.
The bit on the bottom is even simpler - just a block of ms drilled to fit the stud on the adjusting post, and a couple more hole to attach the blade guide. Apart from the brazing it was all done with a hacksaw, files and a pillar drill, along with a bit of careful measuring.
It was only £28 when I bought mine, so it's had a couple of years hard work. Probably need to fit new ball races soon, but they're dirt cheap from a bearing suppliers.
The most difficult thing about it was finding some bits of scrap MS the right sort of size, so I can appreciate there are some practical problems to overcome. Any local blacksmith would be able to braze or mig weld it if you don't have access to the gear yourself.
You lose the circle-cutting attachment guide from the original, but that was something I never use anyway and I haven't missed it.