startrite 275 rip fence jammed / seized

[Mr_P]

Hi again,

I've just purchased an old startrite tilt arbor 275 table saw and I can't get the rip fence to budge. The locking lever at the front disengages the clamp finger at the back and I can now lift it from the back but at the front its jammed solid.

I've removed the hand knob and hex nut but the pinion is seized to the rack / rail.

I've found a diagram / manual at altsaws but it isn't of much help.

Any ideas / tips ?

 

[wallace]

Does it travel along a bar, if so remove any rust and pour some penetrating oil in the locking lever hole and let it sit. Heat helps also if its really stuck brake fluid and acetone is supposed to be really good. Any pictures?
mark

 

[Myfordman]

Plus Gas or diesel fuel are also helpful. Avoid temptation to hit any castings with a metal hammer. Rubber mallet just about permissible.

Good luck

 

[Mr_P]

Well I must confess I did try and remove the top casing/ fence body but I did use a mallet and a bit of wood. The bit of wood lost.

Access is a bit of a nightmare, I've just run out of wd40 (liberal application after hand sanding the top) and have been using 3 in one since. Will get some more in the morning.

 

[zb1]

You should be able to pull the knob forward allowing the fence to be moved quickly over larger distances without having to spin the knob for an age. Have you tried pulling to disengage the rack and pinion?

 

[beech1948]

WD40 is for water dispersal and is not a lubricant.

3in1 oil is OKish

Best approach is to mix some brake fluid and acetone(nail varnish remover) 50/50 and allow to soak in for a day or even 2. Smart tap with hammer on wood block may free it up.

If it still does not move try some heat then a sharp tap.

Alan

 

[thick_mike]

Don't try to heat it if it's soaked in acetone!

 

[Myfordman]

WD40 is for water dispersal and is not a lubricant.

Alan

It seem that only you and I believe this Alan! :lol:

 

[CHJ]

WD40 is for water dispersal and is not a lubricant.

Alan

It seem that only you and I believe this Alan! :lol:

There is a lot of misconceptions re: its lubricating properties, mainly I suspect because the manufacturer claims it has a lubricating function.
This is no doubt correct in the context that in its intended use of moisture dispersal and cleaning of electrical switches and contacts it will lubricate the contact and any associated mechanism surface quite adequately for the slow low pressure action involved with wiping contacts.

Squirted into a bearing running at speed or moving joints requiring higher pressure loading it is not ideal as it will thin the existing lubricant and likely wash most of it out, not a problem if you repack with fresh lubricant but not always possible with semi sealed bearings.
It's dust attracting capabilities when it dries to a sticky moisture repelling coating can also be a bit of a nuisance at times.

 

[beech1948]

Don't try to heat it if it's soaked in acetone!

Good warning mike but acetone will flash off quickly so should be Ok to heat after 1 or 2 days I recommended.

Alan

 

[deema]

There is a clamp at the opposite side of the fence. Once you have lifted the lever check its disengaged. If not release the adjustment nut. This can be could be removing the actual fence itself, a couple of bolts. Mine was binding and it was the end clamp that ad seized, not the actual adjustment rack system.

 

[Mr_P]

Thanks for all the responses.

After soaking it still wasn't budging so decided to take a more Northern approach and took a lump hammer to the pinion to free it from the rack (did place a big chunk of wood inbetween). This partially solved the problem and the rip fence moved freely. So fished out my socket set, imperial allen keys and removed the rack completely but the fence guard only moves along the measurement part of the rack.

Any ideas on how to completely disengage the rack and rip fence ?

Even now the pinion will not turn, thinking of getting a smaller bolt and once again applying the hammer.

 

[Myfordman]

I can't watch this abuse any more - signing off this topic now

 

[Mr_P]

To spare myfordman's feelings I found a bit of wood thin enough for the job and proceeded to remove the pinion.

The cogs are goosed in more than one place so I can't be completely to blame, will get a price tomorrow.

I'm guessing very expensive after the quote I had the other day for a single phase set-up.

24MM motor pulley = £65.00+VAT + Carriage = more than the machine did.

 

[Shrubby]

The pinion teeth can be damaged if someone has run the fence onto the extension bars which don't have the teeth under them. I would use needle files to remove any lumps and bumps on the pinion you have
To restore the top I prefer to scrape with a single sided razor, rather than sand - this maintains the planed surface
To lubricate the machine's tilt and rise/fall gears a bicycle lube called Prolink by Progold is the best I've found. you have to clean off other oils with thinner as it's best onto bare metal
Matt

 

[Mr_P]

Had decided to put this project to one side for the moment since I can't afford / decide on a Variable Frequency Drive but this morning stumbled across an old thin metal file in the garage so had a bash at cleaning up the pinion, figuring I didn't have much to lose. Hey presto it worked and after a bit of tinkering my rip fence functions as nature intended and it moves and locks into position. Rock solid when locked so I'm a very happy chappy.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.