Stanley plane spares

[pe2dave]

The screw (LH thread) used to adjust the blade in / out (you name it, I couldn't find one).
this shows one for a Faithful plane?

Anyone know if that is the same size as a Stanley please? Thread wear means the slop in adjustment
is almost more than blade movement.

Ebay prices are a bit silly.

 

[Phill05]

I think I might have a spare in the shed, I'll have a look.

 

[Phill05]

Here you go, if it's what your looking for message me your details just pay for postage when I know what it is.
Will need cleaning well and I see very slight round over to crest of 2 or 3 threads.

 

[Vann]

...Thread wear means the slop in adjustment is almost more than blade movement...

The 'depth adjustment wheel'.

I think thread wear will be the least of your worries. After you've eliminated thread wear, you then need to eliminate: slop where the yoke slots into the groove in the adjuster wheel; slop at the pin the yoke pivots on; and slop where the yoke pokes through the cap iron. Any of these three are likely to be 10x the slop in the threads.

It's not unusual, on.a worn or cheap plane, to have to turn the adjuster wheel between 1 and 2 full revolutions before the irons move.

Good luck.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[pe2dave]

The brass 'wheel' and steel threaded rod are causing problems.
Ideally I'd like to run a tap / die through them... if I knew what size they are?
Can anyone help please - Did Stanley standardise on thread?

 

[Jacob]

The brass 'wheel' and steel threaded rod are causing problems.
Ideally I'd like to run a tap / die through them... if I knew what size they are?
Can anyone help please - Did Stanley standardise on thread?

There needs to be a loose fit and good degree of slack. It helps with feeling the movement of the blade in or out and the loose fit should allow you to spin the adjuster from push to pull with just a flick of the finger

 

[pe2dave]

There needs to be a loose fit and good degree of slack. It helps with feeling the movement of the blade in or out and the loose fit should allow you to spin the adjuster from push to pull with just a flick of the finger

Agree Jacob. The muck in the threads currently makes it like a rusted nut / bolt. Hence the question - what is the thread size, if anyone knows.
guessing it's one of the older UK sizes?

 

[Inspector]

Stanley on this side had their own threads and I would expect the ones made in England to be the same. It isn't an off the shelf item. I don't know where you can buy them.

Pete

 

[pe2dave]

Stanley on this side had their own threads and I would expect the ones made in England to be the same. It isn't an off the shelf item. I don't know where you can buy them.

Pete

I don't want to buy new ones Pete (second choice really). Just looking for a thread definition, see if I can find a tap / die to clean the threads properly - 60 years muck in my old ones, no wonder they're stiff

 

[Inspector]

I meant I don't know where to get the proprietary taps and dies. Stanley like Singer and other manufacturers of the day picked their own thread forms, diameters and pitches that for the most part don't match anything anyone else used. I found some information that might be of use.
http://www.hansbrunnertools.com/Stanley by numbers/Stanley parts.htmhttps://tttg.org.au/Content/Docs/Articles/Stanley-Planes-and-Screw-Threads-Part-2.pdf
Pete

 

[pe2dave]

I meant I don't know where to get the proprietary taps and dies. Stanley like Singer and other manufacturers of the day picked their own thread forms, diameters and pitches that for the most part don't match anything anyone else used. I found some information that might be of use.
http://www.hansbrunnertools.com/Stanley by numbers/Stanley parts.htmhttps://tttg.org.au/Content/Docs/Articles/Stanley-Planes-and-Screw-Threads-Part-2.pdf
Pete

Sorry. I misread your post Pete.
I don't think any of my planes are older than.. 50's? My (bought new) No 4 is 1971.. guessing made in UK hence looking for Whitworth or similar?
Quite a fascinating document for *really* old planes!
I'm sure I can find the taps / dies if I can say what I want!.

I doubt my measuring skills / eyesight are up to an accurate tpi reading etc.

 

[Inspector]

Get some thread pitch gauges, little saw tooth blades in a pocket knife type holder, and hold them on the thread to the light. When you get one to match without light coming through you have your pitch. Then take the diameter and determine if it is right or left hand. Then you can hunt for the right tap and die. Might be a lot easier to use a small brass gun barrel brush and brass wire tooth brush. Touch up the thread with a fine needle file.

Pete

 

[AdrianUK]

Try this Joinery111 on ebay, I’ve bought here a several times. Drop him a msg if you don’t see one.

 

[sploo]

I don't want to buy new ones Pete (second choice really). Just looking for a thread definition, see if I can find a tap / die to clean the threads properly - 60 years muck in my old ones, no wonder they're stiff

Possibly/probably 9/32" - 24 TPI; though different eras sometimes used different standards.

I've bought other taps and dies from the eBay seller below, and this item may be exactly what you need:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17462058...&brand=Stanley&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851

 

[pe2dave]

I meant I don't know where to get the proprietary taps and dies. Stanley like Singer and other manufacturers of the day picked their own thread forms, diameters and pitches that for the most part don't match anything anyone else used. I found some information that might be of use.
http://www.hansbrunnertools.com/Stanley by numbers/Stanley parts.htm
Pete

From that link:
Brass Adjusting nut : 9/32" 24tpi American/Unified LEFT HAND THREAD So
Yep, a bit awkward. American, Unified, LH thread. I wonder.
I reckon that could be a challenge, even for Tracy tools!
Tks Pete.

 

[Phill05]

I seem to have caused you more problems than helping.

 

[pe2dave]

I seem to have caused you more problems than helping.

No Phil. Both the one you sent me *and* mine were 'sticky', as per a rusty nut / bolt. I'm sure I'm not the only one.
If I can get tap / die (I'll speak to them today) I'll post the result.
Option: Again via Tracy tools. find a metric size 'just a bit bigger' and tap the brass, use a bolt? Yes, awkward
to get used to opposite thread direction, but workable (and repairable).

 

[Owd Jockey]

I'm pretty sure you get this part in the Stanley Screw Kit No. 3

https://www.buildworld.co.uk/merchant/stanley-kit-3-bailey-plane-screws-and-nuts-bw-5628

 

[pe2dave]

Tks Jockey - seems a waste.... but compared to tap/die...
At least

• 34419C Cutter Adj Nut [brass]
• 24427C Adj Nut Screw.
  
  I now know the part numbers!

Talk about a rabbit warren

 

[Vann]

...Yes, awkward to get used to opposite thread direction, but workable (and repairable).

Stanley originally used a right hand thread there, but changed to a left hand thread waaaaay back (1910s at a guess, without looking it up). I think most right handed people find a left hand thread more instinctive.

Cheers, Vann.