Stanley No 4 1/2 restoration

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Richie555

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Hi Guys, I have just picked up a Stanley No 4 1/2 which i have established is a Type 14. The question is "What is the best method for loosening the frog screws without snapping them?".
At the moment i have them covered in 3 in 1, I don't know if the oil will penetrate through to the threads. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Hi there just did an old one of my dads that was seized soid. I removed the wood handle and knob then left it in a bucket of diesel/parafin for a while which soaked in and managed to release them. I wouldn't put the wood in though.
Alasdair
 
apply moderate to strong pressure by hand, but do it for duration rather than abrupt (you'll just meal the slot on the screws).

If you have a long bit for an impact, you could use that, too (a long bit will prevent the impact from having much actual torque on the strikes.

I don't think I've ever had one that couldn't be loosened by hand, though, and the only time it's tough is when someone else meals the slot up before you get to it.
 
WD40 is pretty good at removing any rust and seized joints, spray it into the frog screws, it will help clean it up and remove any grease and crud, but you will need to re-oil it afterwards with 3 in 1 once cleaned up, it should come loose with hand pressure.
 
As above, you need penetrating oil. Plusgas is what you want, you can get it pretty much anywhere these days from your corner shop to Screwfix. The 3-in-1 will unlikely penetrate as although it's lightweight it's not going to get into the threads as easy as proper penetrating oil. The other usual suspects like WD40 won't penetrate properly either, it's not even an oil and is mostly naphtha which evaporates anyhow. Leave the Plusgas on for a hour, use as big a driver as you can get on the screw head, give it a gentle tap with a weight against the drivers head and then turn whilst gentle tapping it. Don't go over board on the weight behind the driver, cast iron obviously doesn't like heavy bangs.

If you can't get hold of Plusgas, cut up a small piece of candle wax, press into place over the screw heads and apply heat to the wax as directly as you can, i.e. flame or otherwise, just enough to melt the wax firmly onto the screw head. The wax will work its way into the threads. Not as good as Plusgas but does actually work in a pinch. The heat itself also assists in removing the screw. Again, as with the weighted driver approach, be sensible in the amount of heat you apply.

One quick question, what markings does it have on the casting? Not sure that is a type 14. Maybe wrong...(I typically am).
 
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As above, you need penetrating oil. Plusgas is what you want, you can get it pretty much anywhere these days from your corner shop to Screwfix. The 3-in-1 will unlikely penetrate as although it's lightweight it's not going to get into the threads as easy as proper penetrating oil. The other usual suspects like WD40 won't penetrate properly either, it's not even an oil and is mostly naphtha which evaporates anyhow. Leave the Plusgas on for a hour, use as big a driver as you can get on the screw head, give it a gentle tap with a weight against the drivers head and then turn whilst gentle tapping it. Don't go over board on the weight behind the driver, cast iron obviously doesn't like heavy bangs.

If you can't get hold of Plusgas, cut up a small piece of candle wax, press into place over the screw heads and apply heat to the wax as directly as you can, i.e. flame or otherwise, just enough to melt the wax firmly onto the screw head. The wax will work its way into the threads. Not as good as Plusgas but does actually work in a pinch. The heat itself also assists in removing the screw. Again, as with the weighted driver approach, be sensible in the amount of heat you apply.

One quick question, what markings does it have on the casting? Not sure that is a type 14. Maybe wrong...(I typically am).
Thanks for the tip, I'm not sure if its a 14 or 15 now. It has made in USA behind the frog but no raise areas at the toe and heel. Until i get the frog off its hard to see much.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'm not sure if its a 14 or 15 now. It has made in USA behind the frog but no raise areas at the toe and heel. Until i get the frog off its hard to see much.
I couldn't see the 'Made in USA' text which is why I asked. Are there any patent dates on the casting? I think your original identification may be correct as I can't see 'Bailey' on the casting either. Like I said, I maybe wrong and typically am.
 
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I couldn't see the 'Made in USA' text which is why I asked. Are there any patent dates on the casting? I think your original identification may be correct as I can't see 'Bailey' on the casting either. Like I said, I maybe wrong and typically am.

Update. Here are some new pics, there
IMG_20220214_104829.jpg
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is no patent dates by the way.
 
The latest update is, I have removed the frog and cleaned the sole. I am however having difficulty with the depth adjustment knob, it's seized solid for now. I will continue to let it soak for now while I sharpen the blade.
 
Looks like someone either wasn't aware if it being a left hand thread,
or possibly had a differing cap iron and decided to cram down on the tool to get some
suitable adjustment of the cap iron.
Ian W has mentioned about differing cap irons and location of the hole for the tab on them.
 
That's a type 15. The 'Made in USA' and the 'Bailey' behind the knob is a type 15, 1931-1932. The lever cap is wrong for a 15, most likely from a type 12.

Aside from the issues with fasteners, that's in relatively good condition for 90 years of history.
 
That's a type 15. The 'Made in USA' and the 'Bailey' behind the knob is a type 15, 1931-1932. The lever cap is wrong for a 15, most likely from a type 12.

Aside from the issues with fasteners, that's in relatively good condition for 90 years of history.

Thank you for confirming it. I was unsure as I'm relatively new to vintage planes. When I saw it advertised I noticed the keyhole cap iron and knew it was early but it wasn't until I started cleaning the blade that I found out it was a sweat heart.
 

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