Stanley no 113 circular plane

[tnimble]

I'm currently restoring a Stanley 113 circular plane. The plane is currently completely taken apart. The body is currently in the kiln to melt in the new japanning. And it is this japanning I'm not completely certain about. The plane was completely done with spray paint which has been stripped. Original japanning does not strip very well with pain stripper.

The concave / convex adjustment knob had paint at the bottom inside which stripped all away. Indicating that either no japanning has even been there or already had been worn off before the silly paint job.

Can anybody who owns this plane have a peak at the bottom inside of the knob please? Can't find any 113 photos on the net showing this side of the plane.

Much appreciated
Laura

 

[Steers]

If you are talking about the nickel plated knob on the front....no it was never jappaned on the inside. I have an older 113 that is NIB and it is just nickel plated with a B cast on it.

 

[tnimble]

Thank you, just as I though is would be.

 

[tnimble]

Well its done. Took about 35 hours orso to do the thing.

Rusty and has been to close to a can of paint:

Completely taken apart, stripped the paint, derusted, sanded and polished, japanned, nickel plated knob and lever cap, put together again:

 

[Lukey]

Thats a beaut!

Does it work well?

 

[Smudger]

Very nice indeed.

Did you do the nickel plating yourself? If so, any tips?

 

[Evergreen]

Very impressive. If Tim Burton ever made a plane, this would be it!

Regards.

 

[Philly]

Very nice, Laura!!
Bravo
Philly

 

[tnimble]

Thank you all. To answer the questions.

I did the nickel plating myself. I got the nickel salts, the nickel anodes and leveler / shining additive from Frost. This is my setup:

The glass tanks hold the elektro plating liquid with the anodes mounted at all four sides. The object (in this case the levercap or the front knob) is hung in the solution from a copper wire. The copper wire is connected to the negative pole from a lab power supply. The anodes are connected to the positive pole.

The liquid is heated a few degrees by the heater underneath the tank. This heater also has a magnetic rotating disc. Inside the glass tank a teflon coated magnet stirs the solution slowly.

For the lever cap I set the lab power supply to drive .8 amps and for the knob around 0.6 amps trough the liquid.

I haven't tried to make shavings yet with the plane. I still have to grind the blade to the proper angle (its currently round :shock: ) and sharper it.