Stanley blade?

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Fat ferret

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Am doing up an old no 5 plane given to me by a friend. It is rusty, broken rear tote, no blade, broken frog. I have bought a new frog, cleaned up the sole and re-painted it with smooth red hammerite. Im not fussed about keeping it original.

Now I need a blade. Don't want to spend too much or modify the plane too much. I have a stanley cap iron so just need a blade. What does everyone think?
 
My choice would be one of the Japanese laminated blades from Axminster. Not cheap but you won't get a sharper, better lasting edge. They are about the same thickness as original Stanley irons so you won't get any problems with the adjuster yoke not being long enough which can be a problem with thicker aftermarket blades. Just be sure to fettle the back iron so that its forward edge fits absolutely flush to the back of the blade along the whole width and you should have a really nice set up.

Jim
 
Go for the fuss free fit of the Smoothcut Laminated blade from Axminster. Get a Quangsheng chipbreaker from Workshop Heaven.
 
Looked at the japanese laminated blade. Not doubting it will be ace but I could get a new plane for that price. Still will certainly consider it, like the fact that it doesn't require any plane mods.

Is the smoothcut still on axi? Couldn't find it so used the search facility but no joy.

Do I need a new chip breaker to fit that blade or just cause it will be better?

Also are the ray iles ones a drop in replacement or do I need to modify the plane at all?
 
The japanese ones at Axi are Smoothcut although I don't think they actually list them as such. A back iron from Quangsheng will give you a bit of (possibly theoretical) extra rigidity in the blade/backiron assembly but, in my experience, it isn't really necessary as long as the standard back iron is properly fitted.

Jim
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, am thinking of going for the smoothcut.

Another question I painted smooth hammerite on the sole and it's still streaky after 2 coats :roll: . Used a brush, properly cleaned and degreased first. Will it look better with another coat or should I have went for the spray on stuff?
 
Ray does make irons that will just drop in. I've used one in a Stanley #5. Recommend phoning - he's a good sort who'll get you up and running in no time, but isn't really part of the email generation.
 
I have 3 Japanese Smoothcut blades all with Quangsheng chipbreakers and the No.6 also has a QS lever cap in stainless steel. The assembly just slot in, no adjustments neccessary. The Axi Smoothcuts http://www.axminster.co.uk/samurai-japa ... prod22303/ are a cut above the Stanley/Records. I bought one initially to plane ebony fingerboards. They retain their cutting edge when sharpened, I finish off with an 8000 ceramic stone and flexicut gold on a strop. The wear qualities are excellent. QS blades are good, I have a combo in my No.3. The Rob Cosman combos are terrific. Both the QS and RC need some work doing before they fit and work. Then they are great.
 
bosshogg":34ncpwlk said:
Lots of Stanley 2" blades on flee bay, nowt wrong with them...bosshogg

+1. Loads on ebay for pennies, see how you go. While I do understand the merits of the heavier blades, if I didn't want to spend much, a regular Stanley blade will do the job with your cap iron.
 
+1 for Stanley or Record blades on ebay. You could always up-grade after you have spent a few hundred hours planing and getting the hang of it, by which time you probably wouldn't bother.
 
I have been using my Cosman combo all afternoon planing Bubinga. Smooooth and easy, fine shavings and no tearout. The blade does make a difference, but the plane must be a good one too!
 
Fat ferret":1q0cfzl4 said:
Looked at the japanese laminated blade. Not doubting it will be ace but I could get a new plane for that price.

"New plane" - yes.

"Good plane" - no.

BugBear
 

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