Stanley 71 - Too far gone?

[Bodgers]

I know it's hard to tell from photos but does anyone think this is worth attention?

And what would you pay for it?

Thanks

 

[marcros]

I think you could de-rust and save that. No idea on value, but a post by andyt the other day "how much" suggested that the prices of new veritas was cheaper than a used Stanley at the moment.

 

[toolsntat]

Be aware that the clamping bracket thumb screw can seize solid in this condition and often snaps off if not careful.
Depth adjuster can have issues with that much rust too.
Otherwise as long as it pokes and cuts its a user.
Cheers
Andy

 

[AndyT]

Agreed. Definitely worth the effort. Electrolysis would be the best way to make sure the threads get derusted.
How much to pay depends on how you value your time, how much spare cash you have and the risk of it not being savable - too much to guess at from one photo.

If that's on eBay I expect it will fetch £20-£40 in that condition, but I am often wrong on that, especially in the current spate of router madness!

 

[ED65]

First time on the forum in days, boy oh boy what a facelift!!

I know it's hard to tell from photos but does anyone think this is worth attention?

I'd certainly give it a go myself but I have to be honest that recently it's been shown to me that it's impossible to be sure you can bring something back even when you have many restorations under your belt. When it comes to rusted screws and bolts it's just a guessing game.

I would say it's a must that the handles come off as you'll almost certainly need to de-rust the body in one go, either by electrolysis or with your favourite rust remover. Although if you're asking a seller don't get them to try to remove them as they could damage the screw slots and/or the wood around them.

If the handles can't be taken off they're likely gonners, which would be a shame but isn't fatal.

And what would you pay for it?

Given current prices, more than I'd like to! UK prices, no more than 40 quid and that's actually too rich for its condition. What I'd like to pay for it would be maybe £15-20.

 

[RogerP]

After removing the handles I'd be very surprised if a dose in an electrolysis bath didn't clean it up beautifully. I'd not pay more that £20 - and that would be painful.

 

[Orraloon]

As the others have said it should scrub up fine. The handles will need to come off first and I would lean towards a simple soak in vinegar to remove the rust. I am always afraid that electrolysis may get overdone. As to cost I would pass it by at much over 20 quid unless it has all the parts. 3 Cutters, depth stop and side fence.
My one was in about that state when I first got it but it did have all the parts. Mine actually has some ugly pitting on the sole but that does not affect it's use. A very useful tool to have.
Regards
John

 

[RogerP]

As the others have said it should scrub up fine. The handles will need to come off first and I would lean towards a simple soak in vinegar to remove the rust. I am always afraid that electrolysis may get overdone. As to cost I would pass it by at much over 20 quid unless it has all the parts. 3 Cutters, depth stop and side fence.
My one was in about that state when I first got it but it did have all the parts. Mine actually has some ugly pitting on the sole but that does not affect it's use. A very useful tool to have.
Regards
John

Only iron oxide is removed and the good metal underneath is not affected.- even if you leave it in there for a month.

 

[Keith 66]

I would clean it lightly, probably wouldnt even bother with rust remover, wet & dry the sole with WD40 Scotchbrite & wd the rest. Oil the handles ith a splash of boiled linseed. Then use it as is, I have several planes that i got like that & they all tell a story & work fine.

 

[StraightOffTheArk]

Unlike vinegar - don't ask how I know this!

 

[Jacob]

If it's not seized up it just needs sharpening and the rust rubbing off the sole so it doesn't mark the workpiece (rub it around on a piece of wood and do a squiggle of candle wax) - and off you go!
I'd brush it all over with raw linseed too - including the handles. It'd polish up with use.

 

[Bodgers]

First time on the forum in days, boy oh boy what a facelift!!

I know it's hard to tell from photos but does anyone think this is worth attention?

I'd certainly give it a go myself but I have to be honest that recently it's been shown to me that it's impossible to be sure you can bring something back even when you have many restorations under your belt. When it comes to rusted screws and bolts it's just a guessing game.

I would say it's a must that the handles come off as you'll almost certainly need to de-rust the body in one go, either by electrolysis or with your favourite rust remover. Although if you're asking a seller don't get them to try to remove them as they could damage the screw slots and/or the wood around them.

If the handles can't be taken off they're likely gonners, which would be a shame but isn't fatal.

And what would you pay for it?

Given current prices, more than I'd like to! UK prices, no more than 40 quid and that's actually too rich for its condition. What I'd like to pay for it would be maybe £15-20.

£65 is the asking price!

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[Bm101]

Wowzers. One of the things I did (as even more of a beginner than I am now), was probably buy too many planes. I caught toolitis planus collectivus for a while there, I'm over it now it seems. Even seem to have built up a mild immunity.
Not loads by any standards, a number 3, a 6. Nice old ones too. No regrets mind. I learned enough to know what I was after and had a bit of luck at auction I suppose. I have them now and I believe that at some point at least they will get the use they were intended for as I find the time to necessitate their use and give them the proper time to master (lol! =D> ) them. The one I didn't get was a router. Which is the one plane I probably should have bought judging by what I read on here about price rises. Possibly I should have bought 50 and be paying for the current loft extension while laughing evilly judging by that price! :shock:
While there's far more knowledgeable tool restorers that have posted already, and caution withstanding on the threads that looks in good nick to me. It's all mild surface rust, at least whats discernible. That would suggest to me the threads might be worth a gamble.
It's the price that would bother me.
When you're paying 60 notes for a tool you have to pay a fair bit of attention to, you have to wonder. It's not rare or antiquated. It holds no inherent value other than current market values but I'm no tool collector. Even when I was looking a year or two back that would have gone for £20-30 I think. Anyway, I'm wandering a bit randomly...
Going back to your poser. Too far gone?
If I saw that on a stall somewhere my thoughts would be 'Ohhhh, that'll come up a treat.' That's not properly neglected to my mind. The iron is in good nick. That's a well made plane that has suffered light neglect in the last couple of years. Surface rust. It's been forgotten somewhere. Those would be my thoughts, at least in the light of my inexperience compared to others.
I wish I was more like Jacob but I can't have rust on my tools. It just bothers me.
Without teaching Grandma to suck eggs, if you're not set up for electrolysis, citric acid seems to me a far better option than white vinegar. Cheaper, easier to store, etc etc You can still add a bit of washing up liquid and all that. Makes no difference.
Don't want to come over sounding like I'm some pro, just my experience.
Cheers
Chris

 

[ED65]

£65 is the asking price!

Collector tool then I'd say, with original patina for added value!

 

[Bm101]

I know not every one is into messing about with tools but if you were to make just one plane the router might just be the one to do.

 

[RogerP]

Tools in the condition of this Stanley 71 are not showing the patina of age and use but that of sheer neglect. That's why I'd completely clean it up back to something like it once was.

 

[Bodgers]

Well, somebody paid £60 for it in the end. And it wasn't me.

I am almost convinced to make one now.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[ED65]

I know not every one is into messing about with tools but if you were to make just one plane the router might just be the one to do.

Yes, a simple tap-adjustable one can be cobbled together in just one or two evenings and despite how basic it is really work quite well.

Tools in the condition of this Stanley 71 are not showing the patina of age and use but that of sheer neglect.

Well to be fair if you brush off the loose stuff and then oil it what remains on the surface will turn into what we call patina.

Well, somebody paid £60 for it in the end. And it wasn't me.

Where was it listed BTW?

I am almost convinced to make one now.

I think it's well worth the time personally. Robert Wearing's two books on tools, jigs etc. have plans for a full-on wooden replacement that'll match any metal one of essentially this type if you want the full Monty, but a very basic one can be knocked up from a couple of scraps, an Allen key and a machine screw or grub screw for the locking mechanism.

I just made one of the latter type from pine quickly to do one job where a chisel router wasn't cutting it (pun intended!) and the plan is to use it until it wears out too much to fix, or breaks, then make a 'proper' one in hardwood with thumb rests or handles, but after using the pine one a couple of times lately I wonder how long into the future that'll turn out to be. So I suspect I'll have to make the hardwood one when I need a full-size router with a wider cutter and not because the pine one bit the bullet.

 

[Bodgers]

I know not every one is into messing about with tools but if you were to make just one plane the router might just be the one to do.

Yes, a simple tap-adjustable one can be cobbled together in just one or two evenings and despite how basic it is really work quite well.

Tools in the condition of this Stanley 71 are not showing the patina of age and use but that of sheer neglect.

Well to be fair if you brush off the loose stuff and then oil it what remains on the surface will turn into what we call patina.

Well, somebody paid £60 for it in the end. And it wasn't me.

Where was it listed BTW?

I am almost convinced to make one now.

I think it's well worth the time personally. Robert Wearing's two books on tools, jigs etc. have plans for a full-on wooden replacement that'll match any metal one of essentially this type if you want the full Monty, but a very basic one can be knocked up from a couple of scraps, an Allen key and a machine screw or grub screw for the locking mechanism.

I just made one of the latter type from pine quickly to do one job where a chisel router wasn't cutting it (pun intended!) and the plan is to use it until it wears out too much to fix, or breaks, then make a 'proper' one in hardwood with thumb rests or handles, but after using the pine one a couple of times lately I wonder how long into the future that'll turn out to be. So I suspect I'll have to make the hardwood one when I need a full-size router with a wider cutter and not because the pine one bit the bullet.

List price on eBay was £70 or offers. It wasn't an auction. I actually put an offer in of £40 and had a counter offer, but I didn't take it up.

I will see if I can get a copy of RW's book.

I saw the idea of using an Allen bolt in some article (the $5 router plane?) I read yesterday.

I think the main issue seems like the blade clamp, but it depends on how fancy you want to get I suppose.





Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[thetyreman]

I'd pay £5 max