MikeG.
Established Member
Pete Maddex":2ovjbyb2 said:
Thanks Pete. It's semi-regular for me, but this is the worst episode I've ever had. I actually threw up with the pain after getting out of bed last week. It took an hour to get dressed.
Stair advice, please.
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Thanks Pete. It's semi-regular for me, but this is the worst episode I've ever had. I actually threw up with the pain after getting out of bed last week. It took an hour to get dressed.
MikeG.
Established Member
Pete Maddex":1tbou4qp said:
Ordinarily, I can still put my hands flat on the floor whilst standing with straight legs, so flexibility isn't my issue. Having worn facet joints and narrow dry discs is the issue.
Racers
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When I was young my vertebrae wern't growing flat they where wedge shaped with a spur pointing up, the doctors said they would correct them selves.
I never did have another xray so I don't know if they did or not.
If only some architect could come up with a better soulution :wink:
Pete
I never did have another xray so I don't know if they did or not.
If only some architect could come up with a better soulution :wink:
Pete
MikeG.
Established Member
Could someone who knows please tell me how big the tenon of the string into the newel usually is please? I'm just a little concerned about how much timber is left in the newel with a mortise for the string on one side, and a notch around the trimmer on the other.
MikeG.
Established Member
ColeyS1":1pjmtvrc said:
Thanks. It was the depth that worried me. I've made it 55 deep, and if I notch 25 that leaves only 10mm of continuous wood.
Doug71
Established Member
MikeG.":23mifdtn said:
Sure that will be fine, I often see them notched right to the back of the riser and you can see the end of the tenon so no continuous wood left, that is in softwood, presume you are using oak so will be stronger.
Here's my typical arrangement Mike
I sometimes add an extra haunch where the newelpost and string sits on the floor. Sometimes I do, sometimes I dont. The string can never fall right out cause the bottom tread is notched in the string and newel.
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I sometimes add an extra haunch where the newelpost and string sits on the floor. Sometimes I do, sometimes I dont. The string can never fall right out cause the bottom tread is notched in the string and newel.
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MikeG.
Established Member
Thanks guys. Confirmation that what I've done is OK.
I've got a bullnose (or half bullnose?) to the bottom tread so the newel is further up the string and the bottom step isn't let into the string at all.
ColeyS1":xn76u079 said:
I've got a bullnose (or half bullnose?) to the bottom tread so the newel is further up the string and the bottom step isn't let into the string at all.
Ideal ! Might seem obvious, but other than ease of setup theres no reason the tenon has to be in the centre of the string. For instance you could have 2mm shoulder, 19mm tenon and the remainder 9mm shoulder (based on 30mm thick string)
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MikeG.
Established Member
From memory, my strings are 38 or 39mm thick, so I've got plenty of room for manouevre.
On the bullnose......11mm thick solid oak riser, 150 radius 90 degree curve....... you can imagine how much I'm looking forward to kerfing that.
On the bullnose......11mm thick solid oak riser, 150 radius 90 degree curve....... you can imagine how much I'm looking forward to kerfing that.
Personally I wouldn't bother kerfing it.
The easiest way to remove the wood to create your thick veneer that wraps around the curve, is by using a router. Find the widest flute bit you have and plunge it your 17.5mm ish depth (based on 20mm thick riser) the first cut you can do in several plunges, but after that lean on the router and keep nibbling away at the width until you get to the finish line. It sounds more difficult than it is. Find a scrap of wood from your offcut bin and cut back for width to see if its thin enough to bend but strong enough so it doesn't fracture. I like doing bullnoses. Tapping the folding wedges in and watching the riser get nice and tight with a bit of glue squeeze out make the extra effort worthwhile.
This is my next flight
A little bit more to do before its finished lol.
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The easiest way to remove the wood to create your thick veneer that wraps around the curve, is by using a router. Find the widest flute bit you have and plunge it your 17.5mm ish depth (based on 20mm thick riser) the first cut you can do in several plunges, but after that lean on the router and keep nibbling away at the width until you get to the finish line. It sounds more difficult than it is. Find a scrap of wood from your offcut bin and cut back for width to see if its thin enough to bend but strong enough so it doesn't fracture. I like doing bullnoses. Tapping the folding wedges in and watching the riser get nice and tight with a bit of glue squeeze out make the extra effort worthwhile.
This is my next flight
A little bit more to do before its finished lol.
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Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
It's not often you see bullnoses done that way anymore Coley! Hats off to you!
MikeG.
Established Member
Do you make your own handrails?
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I'll experiment tomorrow on the kerfing/ veneer-thickness-thing comparison. Neat idea with the under-squint and the folding wedges.
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I'll experiment tomorrow on the kerfing/ veneer-thickness-thing comparison. Neat idea with the under-squint and the folding wedges.
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
I've been making a 65mm x 45mm oval section handrail for a while now for the standard stuff, it feels great in the hand when finished up well. I can't remember what the cutter radiuses are off the top of my head but that would probably be of little use anyway. I either groove it for infill strip to go between the spindles (which I suspect is what you might be doing rather than tediously morticing each one?), or I'll groove it for 10mm glass if that's what is wanted or I'll leave it blank for glass clamps.
Similar to below:
Similar to below:
Thats how I was taught, just the method of removing the bulk of the wood has changed over the years. With bullnose MDF treads and risers I use a similar method of stretching it tight. The easiest way to ruin it is by not cutting out the curved block of wood accurately. The face has to be 90 degrees or as near as can be to the underside of the tread, or tapping in the wedge introduces a whole world of problems.Trevanion":2vhp5upx said:
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MikeG.
Established Member
Trevanion":1txpkx0r said:
I'll be planing mine to shape. I don't mind the subtle variations that will bring, and my only other choice is to buy in some pre-made stuff.
I have settled on a groove up the middle for the spindles, because I couldn't see a way of doing individual mortices nicely at an angle.
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
ColeyS1":2dh7pb8m said:
I used to work somewhere that used to do them like that before moving onto kerfing for most things, they used a Wadkin radial arm saw with a Whitehill 20mm groover to remove the waste which was quite a scary operation if you weren't used to it! It's like 6 times the pulling force of a regular blade when it catches on a RAS :lol:
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