stabilising spalted wood

[big soft moose]

Hi folks - ive just come into a lot of spalted beech (my job involves quite a lot of storm clearance - which is nice) - however this tree has clearly been dead qiute a while and while the figure is great the wood is quite soft and i wondered what advice people would give on stabilising it for turning.

I vaguely recall something in "wood turning" mag about using washing up liquid / alcohol but i dont recall the details so any input would be gratefully recieved.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi BSM,

You're probably best to get a piece on the lathe and give it a go, find out exactly how soft it is. There are several quite basic steps to help with soft or "punky" wood:

- Very sharp tools!!
- Apply a generous coat of sanding sealer and take a cut with very sharp tools

I am certain that this will improve the suface no end but if not the use of some superglue in the very soft parts will help.

Care needs to be taken when sanding as these soft bits wear away really quickly. I would use a large but fairly firm pad and lightly power sand.

A combination of the above should sort it out but if not I'm sure other members will have some tips!!

Good luck

Richard

 

[CHJ]

Welcome to the forum BSM, washing up liquid/alcohol are used as drying aids for wet wood not treating spalted timber.

The treatment methods really depend on how soft the wood is and the volume of the turned piece.

If the wood is very soft, (fingernail hard) over a large area then it will probably cost more to stabilize than it's worth.

For small areas in an otherwise sound enough piece you can use thin grade CA glue.

For larger areas soaking the wood when nearing finished size with Cellulose Sanding Sealer or Shellac will harden it up to allow a better finishing cut. (It may need several applications)

Small items can be soaked in Diluted Sanding Sealer to gain maximum penetration then allowed to dry out before final finishing.

 

[Bodrighy]

Most of it has been said, but I would advise going to a £1 shop and getting cheap CA glue. It's very thin and soaks into soft wood well. leave it a good time before turning though, (I leave it overnight to play safe) and make sure you have protection as it's nasty stuff if it gets on your skin or eyes.

I have found that soft wood often hardens a fair bit once dried thoroughly and that it is only on the outer part unless it has rotted from the inside. If you have a load of it be fussy as unless it is really special it really isn't worth going to the trouble and you are limited what you can make as it is fragile.

Pete

 

[Scrums]

If you've any of the white/light cream in the wood and it's powdery then it won't finish. In a big blank it will be horribly out of balance on the lathe and cause more problems than it's worth.

Chris.

 

[maltrout512]

You can buy a wood hardener that you apply with a brush several times to soak into the wood and leave to dry. I have used it in antique furniture that has been attacked by wood worm, or dry rot. Can't remember the name at the moment, something like wood hardener. Most good diy shops will stock it. When turning/sanding wood that has been treated with what ever be aware of the contaminated dust.


Malcolm

 

[TEP]

Ronseal Wood Hardener, I believe you are talking about. Have used it, and does help to stabilize soft wood, but as has already been said, depending on the state of the wood, it may just not be worth the trouble trying to save it.

 

[PowerTool]

Hello,and welcome to the forum

(everything else has already been said.. :wink: )

Andrew

 

[big soft moose]

thanks everybody - once the workshop is back together (spent today rearranging benches and lathe etc) - i'll give it a go and try to put your advice into practice.

btw its not so far gone that it has the horrible white grainless wood (well there are some logs that do but those got consigned to the firewood pile) its just heavily spelted

and i do litterally have shedloads - it was a three trunked 18" section tree that blew down accross a foot path - i got two pick up truck loads and there is about the same again left on site, which i could go back for if necessary - so theres plenty of scope for practice makes perfect