Spindle Technique

[Lightweeder]

Can anyone advise me please? How would you guys tackle turning spindles about 18 inches long by about 3/4 inch in diameter? I'm using oak (because I have it) and a planing cut with a skew chisel. It's obviously a bit skittery in the middle, and it's taking me ages to get it even. Is it just a matter of skill and a steady hand?

 

[Bodrighy]

When you are turning something that long and narrow make sure that the tail isn't too tight as it will bend the wood as it gets thinner. Also as you plane with the skew hold the wood behind with your fingers. At least that's how I do it. You can get special spindle steadies or make your own. Personally I find my way works up to about 24" and 3/8ths dia. Just go with fine cuts as well or it wuill start to judder in the middle. Also work from the tail end back so that the main weight is always nearest the head.

Pete

 

[OldWood]

Can I add from a relative beginner's experience that it took me a bit of a confidence jump to support the wood with the fingers as Pete says, but once you've got over the worry about it, it comes quite easily.

One thing that can be added is that I find the toolrest should be quite high so that with your fingers supporting the wood, your thumb is bearing down on a nearly horizontal skew.

OW

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Lightweeder,

I do this sort of thing a lot as I make Walking canes which are usually from blanks of 26mm x 26mm x 850mm. There are a few tips for this kind of work:

First, it is important how you hold it. Between centres is ok but don't put too much pressure on as this encourages it to flex and as I'm sure you've found, it needs no encouragment!!! Best held in a chuck or on a screw chuck with LIGHT support from the tailstock.

Keep the speed down as well. Between 700 and 950 rpm should be best but experiment!

I made a long tool rest which works really well. I hope this picture explains it but if not please ask:

I then begin the rounding process with a spindle roughing gouge. As a lefty I start at the right hand end and support the work with my right hand, this would work equally well for a righty, just the other way round:

You can see I put DOWNWARD pressure on the gouge to the toolrest, make sure you don't offer pressure toward the work as this also encourages flex. Let the wood come to your (very sharp) tool.

Once you have it round-ish you can bigin working the "shape", whether it be a taper or just a parallel line. Again, the following picture is me working as a lefty, simply reverse it for right handers. I use the palm/heel of my hand to support the work, using my thumb to apply the same downward pressure. Again, I think the picture explains it better:

Please note: Make sure there is room to safely put your fingers between the toolrest and the work so they don't get caught. Working from below like this is safe as your fingers are naturally pushed out and not pulled into the work.

The next tip I have is quite simple.... don't bother with the skew!! Normally I'm a big fan, and on the size of work you are talking about it would be possible but personally when making my canes in "production mode" I get the best possible finish from the gouge and then move on to my secret weapon....

A length of 80grit abrasive :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: I use a long length as this quickly removes any slight un-eveness, I then sand, with the lathe stopped, in the direction of the grain:

I repeat this for each grit, usually to 240g. And thats how I make my canes:

Hope this is of some help. Please ask if you need more info or tips!!

Richard

 

[Bodrighy]

Nice to see someone else doing it the samew way Richard. Your comment about the skew is interesting as I was doing some drop spindles today. nl;y 12" long but 1/4" dia. When roughing them down initially I use a gouge and it was smooth going but as soon as I started using the skew I was getting vibration and ended up having to sand it flat in much the way you described. I have a few more to do tomorrow so I'll try the whole thing with a gouge see if it is better.

Like the canes. Something else to think about, perhaps with an apple fpr a handle?

Pete :lol:

 

[stevebuk]

Thanks for the WIP pictures Richard, i remember seeing you do this at my club with the canes, absolutely facinating.

 

[John. B]

and of course you could always make yourself a lathe steady like this.

great for taking the whip out of the middle.
Any questions, just ask :lol: :lol:

John. B

 

[Lightweeder]

Thanks all. I'll try all of these tips.

Richard esp - much appreciated. Surprised you get your fingers in between like that. I do try supporting the work with my hand, but it gets so hot! Also interesting to see how you position your roughing gouge. All interesting if I'm honest.

Bodrighy - i'm doing drop spindles also. I'm making mine about 10". Have you any idea where to obtain 'swan neck hooks' much favoured by spinners?

Oldwood - thanks, I'll try that rest position.

 

[Bodrighy]

Thanks all. I'll try all of these tips.

Richard esp - much appreciated. Surprised you get your fingers in between like that. I do try supporting the work with my hand, but it gets so hot! Also interesting to see how you position your roughing gouge. All interesting if I'm honest.

Bodrighy - i'm doing drop spindles also. I'm making mine about 10". Have you any idea where to obtain 'swan neck hooks' much favoured by spinners?

Oldwood - thanks, I'll try that rest position.

I don't put hooks in mine, I use the old fashioned way and put a notch in the spindle about 1" down. If they want a hook they usually ask and then I'll do it. You should be able to get the hoos from any old ironmongers in different sizes. Online,Screwfix do them

Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

Hm. The notch would work - hadn't thought of that :? Mind you, I was shown a drop spindle to work to, and I can see why the swan neck hook works - the wool is guided through a notch in the whorl and then the long, downward point on the hook keeps it in place.

I can't see any on the Screwfix site.

 

[Bodrighy]

There are so many diferent ways. Somke have the whorls at the top, there is a Turkish version that has a cross at the bottom instead of a normal weight and the yarn is wrapped around that as it is made. Some have permanent whorls, some detachable ones of different weights for different gauges of yarn, I make mine so that they can be used without a whorl for very fine yarn then the whorls drop onto a tapered shaft and stick.I made some for a woman in Australia with 5 different weights . I have also done some for a lady involved in re-enactments. She had the whorls made of ceramic by someone else. I tell you, start making things for fabric crafters and you end up doing more research than turning...not that I'm complaining...nice source of income. Better than 45 stair spindles any day

Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

What about the humble 'niddy noddy' ? I'm making those also, but finding it difficult to make them for what they want to pay.

 

[Bodrighy]

What about the humble 'niddy noddy' ? I'm making those also, but finding it difficult to make them for what they want to pay.

They can be got for a tenner online. If you do 1/2 doz. at a time you could probably do it but one offs are always going to cost more. Make the two end spindles identical and knock off a load, then make the main shaft again, enough for a few. If you have a drill press set it up and punch the holes into the end spindles and glue 'em up. Cheapest way if you don't have access to free wood is broom handles, less work, wood is OK for these and you can get several spindles from each handle. Posh them up a bit by giving them a bit of stain.

pete

 

[Lightweeder]

That's the trouble. They're not quick to make, as you say. I've got some oak floorboard which is ok for the tops and bottoms, and I've even started to do the shafts out of that also. I take your point about knocking a few out at a time. I actually got a broom shank at Matthew Charlton for £1, and it looks like maybe ash. Still got to do the work though

As I'm new to this, could I ask you to have a look at my slant on the Turkish design? You could pm me, if you preferred.


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[Bodrighy]

That's the trouble. They're not quick to make, as you say. I've got some oak floorboard which is ok for the tops and bottoms, and I've even started to do the shafts out of that also. I take your point about knocking a few out at a time. I actually got a broom shank at Matthew Charlton for £1, and it looks like maybe ash. Still got to do the work though

As I'm new to this, could I ask you to have a look at my slant on the Turkish design? You could pm me, if you preferred.


[/img]

That looks very posh.If you are making them to sell though I wouldn't do too many with zebrano, looks really good but doubt that you would recover the cost. Most of the ones I have seen have flat cross members but yours look much better and I would have thought work better as well. The spindle is pretty long, what's the dimensions?

Ash,ebonised and then sanded back can have a dramatic look like the zebrano as well. If you haven't already, try playing with different dyes and stains with different woods, you can get some really effective looks for things like this.Also, as the spindles are all so thin you can use a lot of woods that are rejected by most such as blackthorn, hazel, hawthorn, elder, eveb ivy if you can find a piece straight enough. Smaller branches once dried often don't split so much and now is a good time to harvest them as the sapis low. Pittisporum is ideal if you wanyt a white wood. Gorgeous smell when turning it as well :lol:

Pete

 

[OldWood]

I was involved in a university expedition to the remote SE of Turkey in 1967. Somewhere I'm sure I have a slide of the nomadic Kurdish women spinning wool as they walked. I'm wondering if these would be the Turkish spindles you are mentioning.

It's not a place one would go to now but we were lucky to be at the right place at the right time to get tourist access. Great mountaineering.

OW

 

[Lightweeder]

Oldwood - yes, that'll probably be the ones.

Bodrighy - the 'Turkish' one is 11 x 4". It spins like the clappers, so I think my lady should be well pleased. The spindle was ebonised dowel , so I saved on that! They seem to go for silly money on the 'net, and that's why I've been asked to have a go. What would you advise me to pitch them at?

These are a couple of standard types that still have to be 'approved' by my customer. The smaller one's for the chop, as it's too small, but the other one seems to work well.

 

[Bodrighy]

I sell my ordinary ones at £17.50 but have 2 different weight whorls. I also sell additional whorls at £2.50 each. One lady in Australia bought 5. The smaller one you have there would be OK for spinning fine yarn unless it is really short.

Mine are like this...same sort of thing but a bit different style



The one on the right has 3 whorls. They jam against each other so can be used individually or added together for really heavy yarn.

Apologies for hijacking the thread...just realised what we've done



Pete

 

[Lightweeder]

We might have gone off topic a bit, but it was my thread, and I'm not complaining

I feel 100% better now Bodrighy - I appreciate you sharing your info with me. I always feel a bit uneasy producing something for a customer, but it seems mine are not too far off the mark. I might pinch some of your ideas too, if you don't mind.

Thanks again all.