Spindle moulder tooling

[Freddysparkle]

Hi Folks

Iv got a charnwood w40 spindle molder ,my question is if i want to cut a tenon up to 4" deep what tooling should i get eg a tenon disc or groover
i have seen a disc that the tenon goes over the top of of the disc but i dont know whats its called i wil be for making gates doors etc


thanks

 

[Yojevol]

Do you mean something like these. As the ad states they're pretty rare these days.. The solution I came up with was to use a variable angle cutter with the blades set horizontal. This gave just enough clearance for the block retaining screw, but I had to reduce the thickness of the screw head to achieve it. Another solution might be to obtain a standard rebate block and get a counterbore machined such that the retaining screw head is buried below the blade height.
Brian

 

[deema]

First off you should get or make yourself a tenoning hood. This will accommodate the larger cutter blocks. Next look up the specification of your machine and make sure what ever cutter block you get it can actually sing it. This will be limited by the mass of block it can handle.

Your spindle make allow the spindle to be replaced with a stub spindle that will allow say a standard tenon block to be used and mounted such that the work passes over it. If not yoi can get a tenon block from Whitehill. However, these will only cut a depth of 74mm.

https://www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/tenoner-cutter-heads/tenon-discs/CBS008V2/
The better way of making these type of tenons is to get yourself a dedicated tenoning machine. For small scale hobby or production work either a secondhand Mutico or Sedgwick machine is ideal. I’ve made over 4” deep tenons on both. A three head Sedgwick is a real benefit if your making this kind of stuff regularly. It will allow you to cut the tenon (2 heads) in one pass and set and make a scribe anywhere in the tenon with the third head saving the scribing cutters and allowing greater flexibility.

 

[Doug B]

If it’s the Charnwood W040 it was only a 1500w single phase machine with a maximum tooling diameter of 160mm so I’d have thought rather undersized for what you are hoping to achieve.

 

[TRITON]

4" is a pretty long tenon for a moulder. What about 1/2" router and a jig.

Or a moritcer.

 

[Jacob]

If it’s the Charnwood W040 it was only a 1500w single phase machine with a maximum tooling diameter of 160mm so I’d have thought rather undersized for what you are hoping to achieve.

Yes, not enough power anyway. For big tenons you need a big machine, ideally a tenoner

 

[johnnyb]

A multico will be cheaper than the blocks new from whitehill. The expensive ones on ebay are never sold anyway just clutter up the site. Just a few hundred pounds normally and a wonderful machine.

 

[heimlaga]

10 cm long tenons require some very large cutters. My tennon cutters can manage up to some 7 cm. It is hard to find any lager cutters han that in this wicked time of ours. For anything longer I use a 300mm cirkular saw blade held between a pair of home made flanges on the spindle.

 

[TRITON]

A dedicated tenoner is a lot of money, even 2nd hand, and takes up a lot of room to, is heavy etc etc. And for one job seems an extravagance.

I've made big gates, at about 6' high, a pair spanning 10' or 11' solid, not just bar and whatever, and for the mortices used an industrial morticer, and for the tenons cut them with a saw and routered them down, plane and chisel to adjust the fit.
Yes it is a lot of work, but is certainly doable, and didnt involve dodgy set ups on a moulder or investing in a tenoner.
Great if you're sitting in a big workshop and have tons of cash, but a one off. nowt wrong doing them pretty much the old fashioned way.

300mm cirkular saw blade held between a pair of home made flanges on the spindle.

Sounds dangerous.

 

[deema]

@TRITON a Multico tenoner can be picked up at a very reasonable cost and is hugely capable. They are very small and compact.

 

[johnnyb]

Triton I do agree a single job is no reason to get a multico. But they are cheap and they will do the job. they are also really heavy( they look skeletal). I paid £200 for mine.

 

[Ollie78]

Bandsaw if you don't want to get a tenoner.
You won't and shouldn't try to get a 4 inch tenon on a small moulder.

Ollie

 

[niall Y]

I seem to remember that some spindle moulders allowed you to mount the block at the very top of the spindle, Instead of the nut, there was a large countersunk machine screw that went into the spindle shaft and sat flush in the special euro block. This allows you to pass the work over the cutter and get deeper tenons. The limiting factor being, you can only cut one face at a time

 

[guineafowl21]

I had a W040 several years ago, and found it to be a very capable little machine. It just lacked build quality (which made fine adjustments frustrating) and power (2hp).

In fact, I’ve struggled to find a bigger machine with all the features of the Charnwood for a sensible price. Currently using a big old 5hp Cooksley, much like a Wadkin EQ.

The W040 will struggle to cut a 4” tenon all in one go, so you’ll either have to take a series of cuts, or try the saw blade option. I did try that a couple of times, and it worked, but please do take time to consider how you’ll guard everything.

If the workpieces are long, remember that it’s a light machine and easy to tip.

 

[TRITON]

All this talk I fear has scared off the OP.

 

[scholar]

Yes, the OP has not returned.

Anyway, I think this was referred to earlier (see from about 2.00 minutes in):


I have one of these blocks with my Hammer saw/spindle moulder - it is a Whitehill combi cutter block sold by Felder.

I have yet to use it as the video shows (I would want a proper tenoning hood I think), but I plan to try this for larger doors etc. I have used a table saw tenoning jig previously but that is slower (the only choice for twin tenons though).

Cheers

 

[Against_The_Grain]

This is how it’s done

 

[johnnyb]

That's slightly dodgy buti can see he's got a bearing to run off. But he's got a sliding table?so why?

 

[Doug71]

That's slightly dodgy buti can see he's got a bearing to run off. But he's got a sliding table?so why?

Because it's quick

 

[Jackus]

Hi Folks

Iv got a charnwood w40 spindle molder ,my question is if i want to cut a tenon up to 4" deep what tooling should i get eg a tenon disc or groover
i have seen a disc that the tenon goes over the top of of the disc but i dont know whats its called i wil be for making gates doors etc


thanks

I know that Whitehill make a tenoning block with a flush top, meaning that the workpiece can pass over the top. I did scan the website but I can't find anything. Give them a ring!